Electrically dead
 

Hi all
The other day I drove 350 miles. The first 100 with headlights and heated seats on. The car started no problem.

Another 150 miles, again started no problem.

After the last 100 miles I stopped and tried to re start and the battery was completely dead. I jumped the car from another battery and it started ok.

The battery is a month old, and has since been recharged to 13.5V.

When I try and start the car, the dash lights come on and after a few seconds a message about an airbag fault.

When I turn the ignition, the Rev counter and speedo rise a little to just above nought.

There is no clicking of the solenoid. The starter does not engage. Nothing happens to attempt to start the car.

When I try and start from another car, I get the same Result, so it's not the battery.

It's as if it's immobilised, or a solenoid is stuck.

It locks and unlocks of the key fob, remote function.

Any ideas?

What happens when you jump the start lock relay and turn the key?

What car, what MY, what version? (US, ROW)

Regards, Markus

Good point!

2004 Boxster S

UK Model

Not sure what you mean?

I should also say, everything electrical works fine, but there is a very slight buzzing from the instrument cluster.
If I sit in the car and lock it up, the buzzing gets louder and pulses for a few seconds before becoming silent

Hi,

if you turn ignition on, do you hear the fuel pump?

Did the car run fine after you started it with the battery power from another car or was that the time when the problem starts?

Did you check all fuses?
Did you put the car on a diagnostic tester and read the DTCs?

Regards, Markus

Hi Markus
No sound from the fuel pump.

I checked all the fuses relating to fuel pump, ecu etc. All ok.

When it first refused to start, I was 1 mile from home. It started no problem.

Got it home, tried it again and nothing, even with another car battery on on it.

Hello,

did you check the fuses of the current distributor (F1-F7)? These are the main fuses of the car.

F1 = PSM / ABS 50A
F2 = On board components network 1 80A
F3 = On board components network 2 80A
F4 = Ignition lock 80A
F5 = Engine electronics 80A
F6 = On board components network 3 80A
F7 = PSM 50A (not used if the car has only ABS)

Regards, Markus

Yes, check for voltage at the current distributor and check the positive battery cable connection to the distributor at the firewall for corrosion.

You can have good voltage at the distributor, but still have a bad connection not letting enough current through. Always clean connections. ;)

Hi
Thanks for the suggestions. Where do I find the current distributor?

Cheers

In the US, it's in the right side (passenger) footwell. Probably on the left for you, but not sure.

Sent you instructions in a PM. ;)

Thanks guys.


Will take a look this evening

Ignition barrel?
 

Not had a chance to check the fuses yet. Would a faulty ignition switch cause this?

Last year I was driving home in the dark and the lights went off as did the dash. I can't remember if the motor kept running or not and it's not happened since

Could be. At $20, it should be eliminated as a cause.

Thanks for the advice guys. Problem solved, it was a fuse.

The car is now reporting the generator problem. I have got 12.2V at the battery at 2000rpm, so assume the alternator need to come out.

Can this be done from the inside? A guide I have seen says roof off. How long does the job take? I have the firewall out at the moment.

Could be just the VR in the alternator. Be aware that there is an upgraded alternator available.

Cheers

Does the VR bolt on the back of the reg/rec or does it need to come right out and disassembled?

Hello,

the voltage regulator sits on the back side of the alternator. So the alternator has to come out to check and inspect the vr.

The OEM alternator is made by Bosch. Over here in Germany the parts can be overhauled by Bosch workshops. I don't know if there are similar Bosch workshop network in the UK.

Because of the blown fuse i would say it could be vr problem.

Regards, Markus