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Brake Pads Sticking???My 7 hour Brake Job
Just wanted to share my exciting Sunday with everyone which included a complete brake job on my Boxster S (New rotors, new Pads, and bleeding). This took me about 7 hours to complete in my garage on Sunday. There was a lot of pondering going on with the first rotor/brake/bleed then everything going smoothly after that.
FYI...it's a sinch to swap out the pads, and rotors then bleeding by yourself.....(I used the motive power bleeder), just adding all three steps took some time. I put in the Porterfield RS-4 brake pads and I am currently breaking them in. Should the pin that holds the pads in need to be smacked with a hammer to drive it in? The rear pads dropped into place no problem.....with the front pads needing a little encouragement which I gladly resorted to whacking the pin with a hammer to get the darn thing in...on both front calipers. Any thoughts? I did a 5 mph quick stop and the front brakes stuck for a little bit....I just pumped the peddle a few times to free them up (keep in mind the pads had about 10 miles on them) is that normal and will go away after the break in period? KRZ |
Hi,
It's a little hard to diagnose long-distance, but the retaining Pin should not require any encouragement, perhaps this is the source of the Pads sticking. Did you use some lube on the Pads to allow them to slide easily? This could also be part of the issue if you did not. Also, did you compare all the new parts with the old? Aftermarket Pads are sometimes not model specific, or could span several models and therefore may not be an exact match. I have often had to modify aftermarket pads with a file to get them spot on. As hard as it is, avoid any hard stops the 1st 50 miles or so, even from 5 MPH so you bed the Pads and Rotors in properly. Hope this helps... Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 |
Quote:
Thanks for the heads up on using the file.... I'll pick one up. I believe it is the source for the pads sticking.....I'll take the file to the pad (hole the pins slides through) this weekend. The back of the pads are thoroughly lubed with anti-squeel paste while the cotter pin, and large pin are lubed with anti sieze paste. KRZ |
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