How did you get the axle out while leaving what looks like most of the rear suspension attached? I had to disconnect everything but the strut and the whom thing is flopping around and hard to hold still while I use the tool?

Great pictures btw!

Hi Steve.
i removed the diagonal brace and plate, and the cats.
once the cats are out of the way, you can remove the axle from the car.
i noticed that almost in every project it helps a lot to have that space.
after doing it so many time, it takes me exactly 5 minutes to take of or put on.
however, i have a lift, so that makes things easier.

Ahhh... My mid pipes are still on...i may remove them for the other side...

Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??

I used the SIR tool, and needed to remove the e-brake pads. PITA to put them back.
Did it on the S model, so I cannot confirm it is needed on the base as well.
Basically the hors shoe part of tool did not fit between the pads and the hub.

When I replaced the rear bearings (using a bearing tool kit), I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable since the hub housing remained in place..

Correct. The cables stays. But did you removed the pads (aka shoes)?

Hello Meir,

Yes, you remove everything (axle, parking brake shoes, etc.,).

Since I wanted to leave the hub carrier in place, for the first bearing, I used a 'borrowed' hub puller from Autozone that is very effective but physically demanding (at least for me..), then I got from HF a 'bearing tool kit' as recommended by one of the members on this forum and that made the job much easier.

For the front bearings you need to use the hub puller unless you remove the strut assembly as there is no room for the bearing tool.

Good luck!

I've done 30-40 bearings over the last 10+yrs.. I always use heat (as the factory manual suggest) The one time I didn't use heat? I broke a 996RSR front upright.

Thought I'd leave this tidbit here for review. Per the factory manual:

http://ieautosport.com/pics/forforums/Image4.jpg

Did the repair last winter. Driver side was noisy, found out that a ball was missing in what appears to be the factory bearing... Then the pass side, I pressed a new bearing then a hub without a retainer plate... so I pulled the hub out and noticed that it was rather loose fit, even though the frozen hub got warmer at this point. I bolted up the retainer quick then pressed the hub again and it was still not tight, I could press in and out by hands without the tools. I felt something was wrong, so checked the dimension and bearing ID was about 0.02mm larger than original ones... so ordered a few new ones just in case and it was in fact running larger than others. I put new one in and it fit tight. Heat/ chill helps press-out/ in but be sure to check tightness once the temp settles. Watch quality of FAG bearings.

Did you have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub? Gilles had recommended removal of the ABS sensor and am wondering why this would be necessary didn't think the sensor really contacted the hub or race? I have replaced one and found impossible to remove without damaging it getting the sensor out of the hub. I appreciate all the responses/advice I have gotten but I am trying to understand this process without making more problems for myself.

The tip of the sensor is kind of fragile, I broke one of mine by being careless and they are not cheap..

I removed mine to avoid damages from bearing tools and banging around the axle. Easy to do, just one bolt and pulls right out.

I just completed replacing the 2 inner CV joints, rear wheel bearings, ebrake shoes, coffin bar, track bar, rear lower suspension bar, shocks, springs, swaybar bushings, drop links, just about anything that moves in the rear suspension. I did not remove the bearing carrier from the car, I did not remove cats. I did remove the diagonal braces and skid plate. I found a YouTube video posted for removing the rear shock assembly. you remove the bold holding the coffin bar to the chassis along with the bolt holding the lower rear bar. These bolts have the adjusting cam for alignment. Also removed the big nut at the end of the axle holding the hub on. When you remove the 6 bolts holding the inner cv joint to the trans the whole assemble swings out and you can remove the axle. Here is the link to the video. "2000 Porsche Boxster Easy Rear Strut Replacement" by OKC vet

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYuNWXQ_8iI&list=PL9ovuomDL9znaLh6TdzcLczk ofmEt7-2_&index=4

n00b attempting bearing replacement
 

Excellent thread going here. Just this past weekend I replaced all four struts, lower control arms and the things that go from strut to front sway bar. Anyway, I thought that would fix the insane grinding sound I get when aggressively taking corners. It didn't. After I took it to get aligned today the guy at my alignment shop said that the thumping noise I was getting was caused by a bad left rear bearing. So I figured I could replace it. I have access to a shop with practically every piece of mechanical kit and lifts known. My son and I did the change in 8 hours but we were beat.

Finally, my question. How technical is the bearing pull/replacement? I have decided to park the 2000S until I get the bearings in because the thumping of the left rear is only getting louder and more distressing.

Will I be able to accomplish the pull/replacement in 7 hours for both rear bearings?
Thanks for any and all info.
Thom

I made a very cheap investment years ago for three different sizes of these pullers. Each puller can be changed by turning over the claws. I have used all three on jobs.

Good to have a set!http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1534082138.jpg

Bearing issues
 

This past weekend I swapped out both rear wheel bearings. It was a time consuming effort but really not that difficult as long as you have the CORRECT bearings. Thanks to Scott at PelicanParts.com I was able to get the correct bearings AFTER ordering the others from another online discount parts retailer.

The S has different wheel bearings for front and rear. If you look at most of the online retailers they will not show a difference for the front or rears even when designating the S model.
Since I had the hub all disassembled I swapped out new parking brake shoes too. However, now I have the shoes rubbing even after adjusting them twice according to th Bentley manual.

Does anyone have any idea how long that rubbing will last?

Thanks
Thom

I had a similar problem after having the shoe stick to the drum after a hot session and pulling parking brake. Was able to unstick pretty easily, but ended up having to loosen up the adjustment a couple of times because it would grind in aggressive turns. Too loose or too tight is not good.