JD,
I got one this weekend from ebay that was part number: 99660612400
Didn't fit at all. The part where the electrical plugs into has a squared side so the connector wont fit in it. The one on my car is more oval shaped all the way around. The one on the car also has a part number starting with 986...

What's up with this? The one in your post from Buy Auto Parts shows the 996 part number and that it will work for a 2000 Boxster non-S and the picture in their auction looks like the oval shape I need, but now I'm confused. How can one have a different connector on top if it's the exact same part number?

Will the 996 part number work for my car (is that an updated part num from stock?)

Thanks!

Thanks. That's what I'm going to do. Since the seller has a 1 year warranty and I do need a new MAF I'll definitely try a replacement from this guy. Probably was a bad unit and my bad luck!

Question though. Do you have to reset the ODB (battery disconnect etc) so that it learns the ways of the new MAF? The reason I'm asking is i tried to put the old MAF back and man was it creaking and groaning and fluttering.:(

I gave the seller my existing MAF part number and he matched it to his. And it fit perfectly But the design of the case (inside part) is different. I'll have to take a pic and show it to be clear.

Hmm. My seller verified the part number as well and here is what my two look like. My original is on the left (oval) and the new one is on the right (you can see the squared off edge on the top side. This prevents the harness connector from sliding over it properly.

The are a couple of techniques regarding the battery disconnect. If my memory serves me correctly, one way is to leave the negative terminal disconnected while installing the new sensor. Then afterwards, turn the ignition to the full on position for approximately 60 seconds, and then remove the keys from the ignition before starting . Hopefully some others will chime in.

The seller definitely sent you the wrong sensor. That's for either a 2.5 or 2.7 non e-gas model. The same thing happened to me first time around. Send it back and make sure the seller cross references it correctly this time.

Still a little confused. Where does the 996.* part number come into play? The one they sent me is the same part number as the one in the link above that looks right, but clearly they're different.

The one I have has a part number starting with 986, but I thought there was a revision done somewhere along the line.

Should I just stick with the 986 one?

From 2000 onward, the "s" model used a different style sensor that is typically referred to as being an "e-gas" .

So, they sent me a replacement and this one looks exactly like what I had on already. The S like you said is a little different design. What they had sent me earlier was not the same. They were very professional about the whole things and paid shipping back and forth.

I didn't have to reset anything. The car quickly learnt and adjusted and all is well. You can really tell how the ODB is learning as you feel the change in response to the throttle. Still a bit way to go but happy. Thanks for the recommendation. :cheers:

My99 with 50k running rough and hesitation of power through the gears. Took out maf, cleaned, and disconnected battery. Started up and barely runs, no power at all. I guess it's time for a new maf.

Are you getting a CEL ?

didn,t even get to drive it that far. the car shakes and shutter, doesn't even want to go anywhere.
don't want to chance it going down the hill from the house.

what do you think? have my foot on the pedal and goes 5 mph.

I'm not an expert, but typically when the MAF sensor has failed, it will trigger a CEL. That's not to say that a failing sensor will always immediately trigger a CEL. In any case, sometimes when a sensor has failed it will cause the ECU to put the vehicle in "limp" mode. Hopefully others who are more knowledgeable than me will chime in.

JD, thank you for all your input. "limp" mode is what it appears to be. Hope others can chime in, thanks for all your assistance

You could disconnect the MAF and still run at 70. Dirty but still run.

Once you disconnect the battery, you aren't running with learned long term trims but in a basic mode and it isn't unusual to have to go through days worth of runs before the ECU gets smart again.

You need to get the car read by an OBD2 reader and see if you can figure out the causes.

Thanks for everyone's advice & knowledge on this MAF subject. Finally recevied a new Bosch MAF with 996.123 part # & new air filter (threw out the K&N). The car runs great now, haven't had performance like this in over 3 months. I guess the MAF must of been malfuntioning and causing the loss of power and rough idle.

The codes on the CEL were 1123, 1125, 1128, & 1130.

Also when comparing the old & new MAF, the old unit had a curved wire before the resistor? while the new unit has a perfectly straight wire.

I didn't pay attention to the wire but you should make sure the housing is exactly the same. Mine was different. Even though initially I thought the car ran fine, a few days later i realized it was lacking the power and very sluggish. Turned out they sent me the wrong MAF. New one is in and running good so far.

The new MAF looked exactly like the old one & had the 123 part# for the 99 w/o egas so hope it stays working. The Bocsh MAF comes wrapped in a yellow box with the hologram sealed sticker to ensure it is an authetic part. part # on the box 0 208 217 007

keeping my fingers crossed:eek:

Since this thread was just brought back up...I'll add to it, I'm about 1500 kms in on my $49 eBay MAF and the car is still running perfectly.