Replacing Front Motor Mount, OEM or Pedros?

[kouks]

I replaced my engine mount on the weekend with an OEM one. The job is relatively straight forward if you have a decent set of tools. 15mm ring spanner very important as some of the bolts are impossible to access without this. I followed Pedro's instructions and the job took about 3 hours. I also changed the fuel filter while I was under there.

This has transformed the drivability of the car. Its amazing the difference it makes changing in and out or gear. You do not have to be as precise with the clutch for a smooth change with no jerkiness.

If you sometimes hear a clunking noise when you depress the clutch, then its pretty much your front mount thats gone.

[cvhs18472]

Is the motor mount as much of a problem on a Tip car? If so what are the signs of mount failure? My 98 is approaching 60K and I want to start getting necessary replacement parts so that the winter down time can be productive. Thanks , Ed

[catmanluge]

I have a Pedro motor mount Works better than stock.. It the right one to pick!!

[Bobiam]

I have an '01 with 39K on the clock. I've always noted that engaging the clutch in first gear was a rough and embarassing experience until it gets warm, but even then I have to feather it carefully. I thought it was me, but perhaps it's the mount.
I also find that when I shift to 2d at below 4000 rpm I have to give extra care to have it feel right.
I have always gotten the minor vibration going through the 3000 rpm mark when decelerating.
The car had 28K on it when I bought it 2 yrs ago and it felt the same. Never raced.
Do I need a front mount??????????

Bob

[Boxtaboy]

Originally Posted by Bobiam

I have an '01 with 39K on the clock. I've always noted that engaging the clutch in first gear was a rough and embarassing experience until it gets warm, but even then I have to feather it carefully. I thought it was me, but perhaps it's the mount.
I also find that when I shift to 2d at below 4000 rpm I have to give extra care to have it feel right.
I have always gotten the minor vibration going through the 3000 rpm mark when decelerating.
The car had 28K on it when I bought it 2 yrs ago and it felt the same. Never raced.
Do I need a front mount??????????

Bob

People say the symptoms are you hear clunks, and shifting is more difficult, but I really didn't experience those symptoms. Instead, on my 01 Boxster, I noticed that under hard cornering (and in my case, hard right hand sweeping turns under power), I would get a really annoying grinding vibration from my left rear axle. Apparently, the driveline geometry was thrown off due to my worn out motor mount. This was what my motor mount looked like after it was out of the car at 58k miles. As you can see, there were several cracks in the rubber.

After the new updated 987 motor mount was installed, the grinding was gone, but I also noticed the vibration as you decelerate under 3k rpms was gone too. I'm very happy with the new mount, but it's been only 7 months with the new mount on. If it lasts another 58k miles before I need to change it, I can live with that, since I put less than 5K miles on the car per year.

[rob76turbo]

I went with the WEVO Semi Solid Mount and it vibrated a bit too much for me. So I went with the 987 mount. However if you like a very solid mount as a part of a track car, this is the ticket. I am thinking of selling it and I will throw in the carrier too, so it is a direct R&R. PM me if interested.

[gstoli]

Yeah, I changed it too last week. Clunks and shifting difficulty were the indicators in my case too. I chose the 987 one. My car is quiet now (I think...).
My life is a mess nowadays so I did it in a repair shop (I was doing the bearings anyway, so what the heck throw in some more $$$ ). If you ask them they can check it visually and tell you how bad it looks (the truth is I couldn't see much but they saw that it wasn't too bad, yet broken. $226 from pelican. $300-400 from the mechanic, $100-150 from pedro... the choice is all yours, but it is one of the (many) repairs you will enjoy