Oil type

What brand of oil is best and what weight is best to use, I live in Atlanta, Georgia? Also when I got oil filter at dealership they gave me a filter without a shell is that right or should I have gotten one with a shell?

[mjbliemel]

From what I have heard everyone uses Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Not sure about the viscosity though. WalMart has a good price on it from what I have heard, though I have not bought it myself yet. I have had the dealer do my oil change.

[ehljags]

Yes, Mobil 1 seems to be Porsche's preference (sounds like a bit of $ exchange hapening....).

My dealer has told me to use the widest viscosity range available: They use 0-40... (Lord knows what a "0" viscosity grade is). I have not seen it available in any store; however, I have seen it online fro around #35/6 qts.

[JT]

What is hard for me to accept is the 14,000 mile oil change. What ever happened to 3 or 5?

The paper filter goes into the cartridge. In the box there should also be a large O ring. You also need to buy the crush ring for the drain plug.

I use Mobil One 15W-50 in San Jose, California. 15W-50 was approved by Porsche until last year. I continue to use 15W-50 anyway.

The following synthetic oils are approved. Castrol 5W-50. Mobil One 0W-40 and 5W-40. Sun Oil 5W-40. Texaco 5W-40. Valvoline 5W-30.

Jeff

http://www.986host.com/gallery/ToolPants/30k_service_parts

[ehljags]

Mobil 1 in 0-40 appears to be Porsche's preferred oil in newer cars.

JT,
I agree, it seems difficult to go 15k miles with an oil change. However, synthetic oils are a bit different.

Conventional oils, are derrived from crude oil, are predominately hydrocarbon chemicals with a few additives. They have unique chemical properties, mainly their ability to lubriacte and their ability to remove heat (cooling affect). Disadvantges of natural oils (may be a bad term to use, but hell, I am going to use it!) are they tend to chemical breakdown over time (I.e., mialege in your car) and they contain a few contaminates, mainly produced during their extraction from crude-oil. The major concern, especially after some time and heat (the milage issue again) is they loose their ability to lubricate and their ability to remove heat (cool your sweet engine!). If you have ever noticed, old oil, is dark, gritty (contaminants in the oil, stuff (wear metals (yuk) from your engine, and dirt): This means it is time to change it!!!

Along comes the synthetics: They are still chemicals, predominately derrrived from other chemicals, and may actually have their roots from crude (but much more remotely then "natural" oils). Their added advantages are they are made by geeks (chemists, yes I am one by training, many years ago) whom have developed unique properties of their soups including better viscosity control, fewer nasty by-products (sulfur containing compounds for example), better heat adsorbing properties (cooling of your engine), and better lubrication properties. If you notice, the color of the synthetic, remains closer to its original amber color, much longer then natural oils. This is a sign that it is still ok. When it starts to change color -- change it!!


The stuff really works and yes, one can go many miles beyound the old 3000-4000 mile rule.

[Yoslack]

Well I tried to get 0-40 but there wasnt any at the store so i got 0-30 well that be ok?

[ehljags]

0-30W whould be fine.

My dealer/mechanics told me any Mobil 1, with as wide of viscosity range available, will work fine. What part of the country are you located?

[Yoslack]

I live in Atlanta, GA and I did get synthetic if that matters any.

[ehljags]

you can find Mobil 1 at AutoZones and Adavnced Auto parts in the Atlanta area.

got to Mobil 1 webpage to find dealers"

http://www.prod.mobil1.com/index.jsp

[Yoslack]

Huh? I already bought the oil, I got synthetic 0W-30 Mobil 1.