Suspension Install Questions
 

Alright so I can't seem to find anyone to install springs for a reasonable price so I'm going to do it myself.I could really use your guys help. Please where you know the answer(s)

-What special tools will I need?

-Does the whole front/rear need to be lifted while working or could I just raise one side at a time?

-From what I've seen after you remove the front spindle nut you should be able to remove the strut assembly by pushing the shock down correct? Where will there be space to push the shock down? The directions in the Bentley and on Renntech say to push down....push down on what? The top of the shock located where the 3 nuts are moved?

That's according to these directions;
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=7073

-I've seen 3 or 4 different ways of taking apart the rear. Mladen,what's different from the front and rears?

The link you posted is for a 996. I think this is the link you want:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4091

There is a much easier/better way to do it posted on this forum by djomlas. As far as special tools I think you will need some long socket extentions, and a spring compressor which can be rented. Other than that it is pretty straightforward.

Thanks.

Looks like I with the money I save I will just buy coilovers instead of springs.

I can't believe the least expensive quote I was given was $700 for labor at a indy shop.....$1.4k for labor at the dealership. :eek:

Hmm look like I just need to get a ball joint and I could do the job on my own. Not bad.

Anyone know where I can find it?

look for that thread i had on the install...you dont need a ball joint removal tool at all...
i did it all myself...takes about an hour or so per side....once you do one the rest will be easy.
i posted step by step kinda thing w a picture explaining what to take off first.

yeah, i cant believe they charge that much to install something as simple as springs...

NAPA autoparts or ebay is the cheapest. I know Napa can order it if they do not have it in stock. The only problem is that I forget what size it is. I bought mine there for less that 20 bucks and it did the job.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11407&st=0&p=56444&#entry56444

Alright now I'm 99% sure I can this! :cool:

Dude your technique of wacking the ball joint out with a hammer kinda scares me. You didn't rip or bend anything that way?

While I never changed my springs, I recall the issue being the rears are more time consuming than the fronts. Not sure if it is an access issue (ie the top) or having to do with removing more parts of the rear suspension to get the parts out. Yes, you will need new ball joints and perhaps even a specialized tool to remove the ball joints. You will also need a 4 wheel alignment once completed. (est $250-300). Your quote for $700 seems average to "low" compared to numbers I recall being thrown about when I was considering an upgrade?

What will you be upgrading too (spring wise)? If significantly stiffer than stock, you will want to either have your existing shocks (dampers) revalved or replaced to work in harmony with the new shorter/stiffer springs.

* Generically, any "coilover" is a situation where a coil is wrapped around a shock. In essence, your car already came with a "coilover" system ;)

Well I was gonna just buy H & R springs and install them if I paid a shop labor. But now,since I'm gonna do it on my own I might wait a month or two more and buy PSS9s or H & R coilovers when Performance Products does another 10% off deal.

Sucks being on a college budget.

its a rubber hammer, so no harm.
it sounds weird, but once you get in there you will see what im talking bout.

Whacking the ball joints / tie rod ends / toe links with a hammer (even rubber) is not a great idea. Especially since you can buy the proper tool for so cheap. Just get the right tool and be done with it.

Can i get the link to DJ's write-up, couldnt find it ?

Not sure how smooth the roads are near sacramento, but on the few PSS9 installs I have seen, it really drops the car quite a bit. Of the top of my head I would guess 1.5-2". That can have a big impact on just getting in and out of driveways. Just something to think about. The car will feel so much sharper once installed though.. like everything else in life, there are tradeoffs ;)

I don't know a ton about suspensions, but I did just help my kid put new springs (shorter, heavier duty) on his Celica (so as to lower his ride a bit). What I was going to add to the mix was this:

If you need a spring compressor, check with Advanced Auto Parts. They (with a refundable deposit) loaned us the spring compressor. We didn't need the ball joint removal tool, but it's possible they would have loaned it as well. I believe Auto Zone will do the same thing.

Quote:

"Generically, any "coilover" is a situation where a coil is wrapped around a shock. In essence, your car already came with a "coilover" system"

Posted by racer_d.

So is a coilover basically equal to a strut?

If you need spring compressors, buy them at Harbor Freight Tools. I paid a whopping $7.00 for them. They are not the greatest quality as I snapped them, but they will be good for a "one time use" I also hope you have an air compressor and impact wrench because you can do it by hand, but you will save ALOT of time by using power tools to compress the springs. Also a good idea is to mark the camber bolts fo their position before you remove them (especially on the front strut) that way when you put it back together you have a reference of where they were before. Also make sure you have a low profile Jack (aluminum style) or some 2x4's because when I lowered my car with Eibach spring it dropped it about1.5-2.00 inches and at that time I had my stock 17 inch rims. When I was done and lowered the car and removed the jack stands my jack was too tall and could not get it out of the car! :eek: so I lowered the car on 2x4's (flat of course) and then removed the floor jack and used the factory scissor jack to lift the car and pull out the 2x4's I guess I could have just driven it off the 2x4 but i did not want to take any chances of the wood flipping off and hitting my car. I did after that buy an aluminum or low profile jack as my regular floor jack will still not fit under my car even with my 18" on. Dont forget to get your alignment asap, after i lowered it, I did a pretty good job putting it back together and the car stood even with the camber and even drove straight, but when I got it on the alignment rack the following day, it was still off by a country mile!

The is the nice thing about the PSS9 is that its a treaded coil over which means you can adjust as much(totally lowered for track) or as little (stock height)as you want to drop the car. You can also adjust damping and rebound. If you get this set up, you may want to go ahead and get the car corner balanced when they align it. You will have to go to someone that specializes in this. It's not necessary, but since your spending the extra money for great suspension kit, you may as well utilize it and use it to your benefit. Let me know if you find a good deal on it maybe we can do a group buy as I have been playing with the idea of going with a PSS9 set up.

Quote:

"I also hope you have an air compressor and impact wrench because you can do it by hand, but you will save ALOT of time by using power tools to compress the springs."

Posted by boxs2000.

That's a good idea, but we accomplished the same thing with a cordless drill with sockets and a socket adapter. (Again, we were working on a Celica, so I don't know if there'd be any issues/differences on a Boxster. Don't know why there would be, but who knows?)