FINAL CONCLUSION


My now good friend, arenared, PMed me and brought light to my predicament.


If you notice my descriptions...Loss in 1st and 2nd gear, torquey in 5th gear, fast in 3rd gear, it leads to one conclusion: There is a loss at high RPM.


I would have never considered this. I always assumed that the high end yielded the most gains.


I am going to return this product A.S.A.P.



Meeting a girl Thursday night and have an auto-x Sunday but Monday I am going to...immediately.



Thanks to everyone for your insight and thanks especially to arenared for showing me what was right under my nose.


I no longer recommend this product for a 987 if it is your only mod.


Sorry guys if I caused you trouble :(

Sorry to hear that your chipping experience did not work out. Just my 2 cents, I am very pleased with the chip I got for my 2.7L 2000 Boxster. I got my chip from the folks at Autothority Pitstop, who were very helpful dialing it in for my car.

The main thing I noticed after chipping was how much more responsive the car is at low to medium rpms, which can be seen by the very flat torque curve. I would recommend it to anyone that wanted a few extra hp (I get a little over 200 hp to the wheels) but a noticably more responsive car.

Ed

:cheers:

I dont think my dyno trace came through in last post,

Ed

I'm pretty car stupid.....you gained 3HP?

What is that comparing? Stock to ECU tuned?



If you noticed...you actually lost a little power and torque down low.

The two traces are two different versions of tweeks that Autothority Pitstop did to dial in the chip. The 201 is the most recent tweek that I have have dynoed. We have done a subsequent tweek that has probably picked up a few more hp, but I have not dynoed it as yet to check it out.

Ed

:cheers:

"I'm pretty car stupid.....you gained 3HP?"

Sorry I should have explained, the two graphs are two versions of the tweeks that were done to the chip. I could not find a dyno in time to run a baseline curve (for which I continue to kick myself). So, if I happened to have a 2.7L that was putting out close to 240hp stock, I have no way of knowing without that baseline reading that chippnig did anything at all.

After the chip was installed I found a dyno and started doing runs, 4 or so at last count. Realistically if my car was making in the neighborhood of 217 hp before chipping, it now seems to be making about 20 hp more. But again, HP is one thing, I mostly notice how more responsive the car is with the ECU remapping, it is quite a treat to drive.

Ed

:cheers:

Hi,

I'm sorry, but I have to chime in here, probably to the chagrin of a few... ;)

A Dyno can be a very precise tool, but more often than not, is used in a most imprecise way. There are so many variables affecting the outcome of a Dyno that very few shops even consider, let alone control.

Fuel Quality, Alternator Load, Tire Make, Model, Pressure and Temperature, Heat Soak (Engine, Tranny, Fluids), Advance Curves, Ambient Temperature, Barometric Pressure, etc. are all variables which have definite effect on the results.

A simple XY Graph, without controlling and matching these variables, means NOTHING!. And, an XY Graph without a set of Baseline #s mean even less than that.

Most Dyno Shops are in the Feel Good business, they invest $25k in a Rolling Road, maybe another $1k in minimal software and generate lots of Happy Graphs for their Happy Customers who all rush out to tell their friends which generates more business for the Dyno Shop. The Dyno-Jet has been the best friend the Aftermarket ever had.

But, there's an old addage in testing: Garbage IN... Garbage OUT. Automakers do dyno runs which cost them an average of $25k per run, do you really think that plopping down $50-$100 bucks at your local Dyno Shop can yield results which are just as accurate?

You may choose to believe that the variables I've mentioned have minimal effect, but they are well within the values of the reported gains. In other words, if a varable has a 10 HP effect, and your gains show 10 HP, without knowing whether that variable was present or not, you cannot attribute the gains to the Mod - you are within the degree of error of the testing. Multiple runs don't confirm anything either if the same inaccuracies are present and unaccounted for.

edevlin remarks how flat the torque curve is. Well, what does the Stock torque curve look like? Don't you think that Porsche realizes that a flat torque curve through the mid-ranges is desirable too? Perhaps their torque curve is even more flat - we don't know.

The Dyno Shop I've used has very intricate software which monitors the sensors, electrical loads, and ECU in addition to what the rear wheels are doing. It measures temperatures to the 0.0X°. But, they charge $700 for a run too. Their results are reproducible almost every time.

Then there's the variation in the cars themselves. It's not unusual to see variations in power of 10% or more between the various cars coming off the line, they don't all produce exactly what the Sales Brochure describes, in fact, that number on the Sales Brochure represents the minimum numbers a car will produce.

Remember the MOPAR and FORD Muscle Car brochures of the late '60's? They reported numbers, for Insurance purposes, which were sometimes underestimated by as much as 125HP in the case of the Hemis and Cobra Jet engines. If you're making a Dyno Graph comparison to those published numbers, it's quite possible that you're not having any real increase at all.

The interesting thing about these latest Dyno Graphs isn't the HP or Torque, but the AF graphs. The car is running very Rich and this means that all the fuel is not being combusted. Running Rich robs power and/or leaves power unrealized as the unburnt fuel is expelled out the exhaust. Also, it runs lean at low rpms, again, unusual.

But, in the end, there are no gains to be had except those which were overlooked, for a variety of purposes, by the Manufacturer.

Honda holds a lot of their engines potential back because their strength in the Marketplace has always been Reliability and Range (MPG). This means that there's a lot of potential to unlock, if you don't mind sacrificing those things Honda designed the engine to preserve. Civics and such demonstrate huge Dyno gains because of this.

But, Porsche designed and markets this car as a Sports Car. It already has one of the highest HP/Displacement ratios out there. There just isn't a lot to be found by just reprogramming the software.

If you add Intake, Exhaust and Cams, then it's a whole different story, and different engine. But, absent this, aftermarket chips can't hope to gain more than 10HP. You can alter the curves, change the Power Bands, but for the most part, it's not usually worth the money invested, or the reliability lost...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Jim makes a lot of good points and has way more dyno experience than I do, I am pretty much a raw novice in Boxsterdom, but I am having a great time. Somewhere in my travels I saw a graph for the HP and torque for a base 2000 boxster, but I cannot rember where I saw it. If anyone has data on a dyno run on a base 2000 I would be interested in seeing it.

I have experienced the variability in similar cars that Jim is referring to. The shop that chipped my car also did another 2000 2.7L boxster that was very muck like mine. That car was setup almost identically to mine, same intake and exhaust mods. The only difference was the other car had true one-bolt wheels (not sure what you call that configuration) which were probably lighter than my aftermarket Carrera wheels.

Anyway, I had a chance to drive that car and it seemed MUCH quicker than mine. The tuner also thought the other car was much faster than mine even though both cars had similar miles on them and again, a very similar setup.

Ed

:cheers:

Basically, any gains less than 10 hp, or really even less than ten percent, are pretty hard to judge on a dyno. Take it all with a grain of salt.

Sorry I got to this party so late though--looks like it was a fun discussion. I've spent a lot of time discussing butt-dyno gains online with people in the past. :)

BM: Don't know if it's already been said but if you want to see real gains the first step would be to get an exhaust and intake upgrade, THEN tune the ECU. Tuning the ECU by itself won't do anything worthwhile for you.

Also, if you're wishing for more power out of your Boxster, I'd recommend selling your 987 and just buying a 987S instead. That would be the most cost-effective way, honestly.

Lol
 

You guys make me laugh, but then I want to cry... place

Yes - I have MANY dyno's from testing we have conducted since 1997 on the Boxster (we have been tuning Porsche since 1991). In addition, my own car has been a test mule, as has a software engineers new Cayman.

I must say however, that anyone wanting to see dyno runs (ie. squiggly lines on some paper) instead of listening to actual objective driving perceptions clearly misses the main benefit of software tuning - improved overall driveability!

We aren't only adjusting the WOT power, but part throttle as well as reducing the time delay from the drivers foot into the engine.

IMO MNBoxster is being a little irrational with his comment:
"If you add Intake, Exhaust and Cams, then it's a whole different story, and different engine. But, absent this, aftermarket chips can't hope to gain more than 10HP. You can alter the curves, change the Power Bands, but for the most part, it's not usually worth the money invested, or the reliability lost...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99"

What he is implying, is that the 'Performance Software Industry' as a whole is fraudulent! In 2006, SEMA estimated that engine control software tuning (ECU tuning) as an industry produces over $1Bn per annum.

I can also show literally thousands of customers that HAVE NOT taken us up on our generous 14-day trial. Once a client feels the extra performance, they are reluctant to take it out - especially considering it is less than $1,000 in the first place.

It is true that in general there is not as much performance to be gained on a NASP vehicle than there is with forced induction - but I am not sure that you are truly in a position to preach what is to be considered 'worth the money' for others.

BUT - the best post Jim'99 was this one:

"These Optimal Points for Fuel Timing and Spark differ throughout both the RPM and Load Range and are independent of each other. This means you don't always want them as close together as possible, contrary to what you've been told. They have been determined experimentally in the Lab and are programmed as code into the ECU (DME in Porsche Parlance) and are called Maps. Using the signals from various sensors in the engine and car, the DME compares actual conditions to a set of known conditions and selects the correct Map programmed for those conditions and energizes the Fuel Injector and Spark Plug accordingly."

... I now can see that you have little idea about how OBD-2 compliant vehicles are designed and developed by the manufacturer, and furthermore, that you know almost nothing about how a software engineer goes about making changes to the manufacturers settings - to improve overall driveability. No offence, but your posts possess the factual relevancy of 5th Grade science report.

The fact of the matter is that our equipment gives us full control over many functions of the engine. These functions allow us to take advantage of high octane gasoline and optimize the engines response time. In the same way that a customer goes and spends $15,000 on the X51 package at the dealership - only to get a chip and intake - there is little difference to what we offer our clients (only at a fraction of the cost).

Bavarian, please feel free to keep on testing it out to make sure your happy. If you are not, then just give us a call and we can put you back to stock.

PS. attached is customers car we are currently tuning! I am trying to get him to join 987board.com :) :cheers:

Enjoy the drive!

Trav

Hi,

See above...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

For all of you looking to get better throttle response and havent changed the plugs and coils in a while....if ever...I suggest doing so. Skip the expensive tuner crap and just keep the car running in the best condition possible and you won't need band-aids to "feel" the power.

I just changed my plugs and coils and the car got a bit more kick; a better response...all for the price of maintenance I should be doing anyhow! :cheers:

This is all dandy. My main & primary concern, and I can not stress this enough, is that I do not want any power losses at any point in the powerband or @ any RPM.



How do I know? Well, I don't. It's hard to tell at low RPMs, but I can say w/ a bit of confidence that at high gear at low speeds (35mph in 3rd for example), the car jumps faster than before. It pulls me more. The seat will actually hit my back when I hit the gas.


What does this mean? I don't know. How do you really know?



Throttle response IS improved. I know this sounds a little LOL-worthy, but it does help in day-to-day driving. It's like the difference between having a strong clutch w/ a strong spring and a mushy clutch. You feel what you're doing more, allowing for more precise control.



I am pretty pleased w/ the product. I knew from the beginning the gains for my car would not be substantial. That doesn't need to be told to me.


I just want to couple it w/ the PSE that is coming out in April and see what that does :)




So make what you want of all of this technical stuff, but I can not say enough about the great service at Powerchip.


I must have called 50 times before and after I got the ECU back and they were happy to answer every single question. Trav is a great salesperson and is very easy to work with.


I actually memorized the phone # because I called so much.




PS: I just have to make a small defense to Trav. He did put some of his $$ where his mouth was. He sold another member & I both the product for $600.

It costs $900. That's a substantial price decrease which shows confidence in the product.


He is willing to sell any of us the product for just $600. If you are willing to take the $90 shipping loss (or $40 if you send it by 3-day mail), I recommend giving it a try, especially if you have other mods.


Special thanks to Jim for putting things into an objective and informational perspective :)

ummmmmmm
 

if we are thinking the same chip here, it claims to bump from 240 to 259 with 93 octane gas......

so not being much of a horsepower and ll that jazz kind of guy, but shouldn't/wouldn't yuo cmopletely absolutely feel the jump with a gain of 19 horses???

The only reason I ask is that I saw the chip and claims and wanted it, also claimed to knock a half second of your 0-60 time.....but I just don't think you are giving it the most glowing endorsement.....a lot of back and forth....

I guess I'm staying away from it for now....

It does feel more powerful. It's difficult after a couple of weeks to remember how it USED to feel.



You adapt to the new power and then you are unsure. It feels normal again to you.



That's why HP is so addictive, like a drug :)

"FINAL CONCLUSION


My now good friend, arenared, PMed me and brought light to my predicament.


If you notice my descriptions...Loss in 1st and 2nd gear, torquey in 5th gear, fast in 3rd gear, it leads to one conclusion: There is a loss at high RPM.


I would have never considered this. I always assumed that the high end yielded the most gains.


I am going to return this product A.S.A.P.



Meeting a girl Thursday night and have an auto-x Sunday but Monday I am going to...immediately.



Thanks to everyone for your insight and thanks especially to arenared for showing me what was right under my nose.


I no longer recommend this product for a 987 if it is your only mod."




Hey Bav,

Just wondering what made you change your mind?? I thought you were going to return it ASAP?? Customer service is one thing, but actually getting what you wanted is another.

Anyway, looks like you've made your decision to keep it. But, do keep us posted!

Thanks again for sharing your experience! :cheers:

I kind of had the same take especially with the money where your mouth is...I mean money where your mouth is send it back here is your 600, not discounting a product....ummm....I'm staying away fo now but thanks for the info you've passed along on this chip......keep us posted for sure

If a chip gave me the improvement in fuel economy that you originally noted, I'd keep it for that reason alone.

Bav, you said the throttle response was improved.
How do you compare it with sport mode(Sport Chrono)?

If it was significant horsepower, you'd feel it without question. The fact that you're thinking a PSE would make any difference also indicates that you're the type of guy that would be easy to sell parts to. ;)

Skepticism will keep your pocket fat, especially in the aftermarket parts arena where everyone and their brother is selling snake oil.

And, the thing I always ask is, "if all it took was this one little part to give me "X" amount of improvement, why wasn't it done this way at the factory?"

If this thing is really generating better fuel economy, what negative effect is it having that was tuned out at the factory? Everything's a compromise.

To get better fuel economy, you could be running leaner at idle or low throttle. Great, except for the increased emissions. As long as you're not hugging trees or give a crap about children, that's fine.

The gas mileage is definitely improved. There's no question about that. By how much? I can't really say, but it's steadily improved from 19.9 to 21, and this is including an auto-cross and some high performance "testing" of this chip.



The throttle I cannot compare to the sport mode because I don't have that :(





Eslai: Are you kidding? I've spent months and months trying to find a single product that guaranteed themselves so I would not have to waste $$.


I don't know if you remember when I joined but that was the first thing I asked about; Mods.


I am a very skeptical person but I also realized that spending months & months debating on whether or not I want to spend a few hundred dollars doesn't make any sense either, so I decided to take the bait and see what's up.


Sometimes that's the only way to really know...







Anyways, I think that instead of a PSE, I am going to buy a 1st gen. Miata for track driving and auto-crossing. My car keeps getting all dinged up.

Btw, I just want to say that I think it's faster.


The debates going on in my head were really as to how much faster it is, if it's a lot faster and if it's faster ALL AROUND, but over-all I think it pulls harder.



Anyways, my offer still stands. Anyone who wants to drive my car can and perhaps they can do a comparison themselves. That might solve all of this, or at least help.

"Anyways, my offer still stands. Anyone who wants to drive my car can and perhaps they can do a comparison themselves. That might solve all of this, or at least help."

First let me say that I am quite pleased with the Autothority chip in my 2.7L Boxster, not that much increase in peak HP, but very responsive. That being said, I dont know how useful having someone drive your car will be to demonstrate how well your chip works.

Here is my reasoning, I recently testdrove drove a 2001 2.7L Boxster with 63K and a 2000 2.7L with 43K. There seemed to be a very noticable difference in responsiveness and power in the 2001 car, even though it is supposed to have the same engine and HP. The other example I have experienced is my car and a almost identically setup 2000 2.7L Boxster.

Same chip, exhaust, intake, just different wheels. The other Boxster was much, much more responsive (could break the tires loose pretty easily in first gear). So I may be hard to tell how much of the difference in drivability is just inherent in your car,

Cheers,

Ed

:cheers:

If your going to continue auto-cross racing I would definately keep the modified ECU. You stated that it had more low end torque and not much top end. That's perfect for auto-cross racing since you realy don't use 4th and 5th gear. All of the driving at those type of events only use gears 1-3. :cheers:

Edevlin: Yeah, I was thinking of someone w/ a 987 could test, though. Preferably not an '07 as they are a little different. I haven't seen anyone here, though, w/ an '07.

I will extend my offer to any of you guys that want a drive, 987 or not. It doesn't bother me one bit.



Porsch986: You're right! I know all of us Boxster dudes know about the little dead spot @ around 2k rpm in 2nd gear? Yeah, that will kill you in auto-x when coming out of those 'S' turns that you have to slow down for.


I leave it 2nd gear the whole time and it pulls magnificently :) (of course, I start in 1st)

Yeah, and even then we all said the same thing--no such thing as a cheap, worthwhile power mod. :)

Don't take this offensively, but I found many of your (not you in particular) definitions of "worthwhile" to be strange. Many of you believe that $1000 for 10hp is a rip-off, whereas I would jump all over something like that.



Which is why I didn't take many of you seriously and still don't sometimes, because it seems as if a mod doesn't yield substantial gains, you (again, not you in particular) deem it not worthwhile.



Not that some mods aren't total crap because I know many are, but you get my point. It's a difference in opinion.

This is a really controversial subject it appears :cool: Here are a couple of my thoughts-

Most companies set their cars up for the lowest common denominator. As I understand it 93 octane is nonexistent in many cities. It makes sense to me that a car would not be tuned to take advantage of this from the factory and that a chip would. It may not be a huge difference but it must account for something.

I noticed that all the spec boxsters are going to be using the powerchip. I also see a lot of tuning chip decals on race cars and they aren't all turbos. Do the spec boxster guys know something we don't ?

This subject generates loads of criticism here. I just picked up an '06 Audi A4 so I joined one of the Audi boards to learn about it a little. Seems like everyone puts in chips and it is one of the first mods done. Of course the Audi chips are $200.00 less than the Porsche chips. Can't imagine why though!!!

A chip, intake and exhaust should cost less than 2,000.00 and yield roughly 25 HP if I understand everyone correctly. If that's the case I don't think the cheapest way to increase HP is to move to a same year "S" model. Although the "S" models do have a whole lot of extras making the move a tempting one I am not sure the added HP would be enough on it's own. When I bought my Boxster then 3 years old all the "S" versions were selling for 5 to 10 thousand more.

Personally, I think the auto makers like everyone tinkering with the cars. It adds a competitiveness and builds brand loyalty. The guys running the show aren't all dummkopfs you know. Don't underestimate how much free advertising and brand loyalty all these mods generate.

Finally maybe someone can answer a stupid question here. Won't the butt-dyno register a lot higher with someone who weighs 150 to 180 pounds than it will with someone in the 220 to 250 pound range? I certainly don't mean to offend anyone as I am in the middle of those two ranges creeping upwards a little every year myself...My point-isn't it a lot easier to move an object from 0 to 60 a lot faster when there is 70 pounds less in the drivers seat and won't it be substantially more noticeable? :p Maybe that's why the younger (skinnier) drivers swear by chips and the older more experienced owners don't seem to notice as much of a difference. Course I could be all off base on that too but it does seem to make sense. Any Physicists care to comment?

After reading all this I am still committed to purchasing a chip. I have the exhaust, the intake and I just lost 15 pounds. I am leaning towards the Revo though so if anyone is interested in doing a group buy PM me and we'll give it a shot.

What mods are there that give you ten discernable horsepower for $1000? I can't think of any! 10 horsepower for $1000 WOULD be a great deal on a Boxster. A full exhaust system will cost you three to five grand and net you about 10 to 15 horses.

The argument is more "you're not even getting what you've paid for", rather than "you're spending too much for mods of measureable worth". The mods in this price range are generally debateable. If you want REAL horsepower as opposed to "placebo" or "maybe" horsepower, you have to pony up, so to speak.

hey bav, I'm not dumping for the record on spending 1000 for 10 horsepower, I would do it if it was supported by something.....I just don't like the fact that the maker of the chip I think came on here to debunk MN's theories.....

yet he tried to debunk them without any proof....its like this, I'm a sales guy, and my work doesn't necessarily believe I've done my work unless they have the dials and entries into our database to prove it.....so I just saw their add in a magazine claiming my boxster is going to produce 259 HP with their chip.....but no where does it show proof.....

one thing to think about, remember the Che (??) dude and the post where he gave away an exhaust system for exchange of running dyno reports....well there is the challenge, you said this guy puts his money were his mouth is right? have them set your ecu to factory, you go get the tests done to see what you're running....and then have him reprogram it and you pay for the tests again....if it comes out, everyone on the board will be believers of the gains and I'll fork over 600 bucks no problem to get 0 horses no problem :D

"After reading all this I am still committed to purchasing a chip. I have the exhaust, the intake and I just lost 15 pounds."

If you have not already done so, you may want to go to a lightweight battery (25-30 lbs savings) and loose your spare (do 03's still have spares... for another 30 lbs savings) and the car will pick up a little zip, what fun......


Ed

:D

Interesting thread. After looking at the cayman forum where they have been doing alot of dyno testing on mods, it seems like you would be best served to go with a header+exhaust mod if you want to gain HP.

I am attaching a link with some of that information. The Miltek header and catback exhaust seem to be getting the best gains.

http://www.caymanclub.net/showthread.php?t=10011

Hi,

The issue here is the use of the dyno to measure any effect.

It doesn't matter whether it's a Chassis or Inertial Dyno, the effects you're trying to measure are too close to the degree of error to really mean anything.

People wanna sluff these off, but there are so many ways to skew the testing, both consciously and inadvertently. These Dynos are for Tuning, not determining absolute values.

The error possible is just too great, and from little things such as electrical load, gear selection, corrections (either manually or software), etc.

Also, Drivetrain losses are often waay too under/over estimated. All testing s/b be recorded only in 4th gear as this is as close to 1:1 as possible and best measures only the flywheel output. The Frictional losses in the Tranny will only account for a 0.5%-1.0% parasitic loss - not the 18%-22% often just pulled out of the air. Most drivetrain loss occurs in the Tires and varies widely from Tire-to-Tire, so much so that no meaningful generalization can be made.

Each error, such as Temperature or Barometric Pressure, or insufficient cooling, etc. may only introduce errors of 1% or 2%, but these errors compound themselves and soon you have error of 10-15% when your measured gain is 8-10%, meaning that you cannot be sure of any gain at all.

You can try to eliminate errors, such as doing Baseline Runs when the engine is HOT (most don't do this), or have an accurate weather model, again, most don't or plug in regional data which can be very different than at the Dyno itself.

The only Dyno which is accurate for the engine is a Bench Dyno. It measures the flywheel specifically. Chassis or inertial Dynos are only useful in monitoring changes while tuning, and even then are subject to great error if the operator dosen't know what they're doing...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

I would agree with you that the dyno test can vary greatly dependent on a number of factors. Therefore, the actual numbers in the result are subject to debate. I wouldn't think it was smart to say I'm going to get xHP gain for this mod b/c someone's dyno said so (ie 22hp for Miltek header and exhaust)

However, if you review the many modification posts and related dynos you can start to get a pretty good read on what mods create the greatest impact. So if you have money to burn and specifically are looking for a HP gain, i think it is reasonable to say you will get the best results investing in a new header and exhaust versus the other mod options (with the exception of a new engine).

The point I was making in my earlier post was just that 'directionally' it seems the exhaust/header mod produces the best results.

[QUOTE]=edevlin]
Same chip, exhaust, intake, just different wheels. The other Boxster was much, much more responsive (could break the tires loose pretty easily in first gear).[QUOTE]

Maybe the other car had worn out or different tires than you. Just because it broke the tires loose easier doesn't always mean more power. The PS2's I have on now won't break loose like the PS1's that came on the car.

[QUOTE=super66]hey bav, I'm not dumping for the record on spending 1000 for 10 horsepower, I would do it if it was supported by something.....I just don't like the fact that the maker of the chip I think came on here to debunk MN's theories.....[QUOTE]

Yeah, I agree, it looks Jim's post has shut down the Powerchip guy. He hasn't responded at all. He hasn't given any real data or excepted the challenge. Seems to me Jim scared him off and they don't want to play ball like the Che man.

Hi,

I'm really not very scary at all... just ask Mrs. MNBoxster... :)

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

To me, the graph looks like the variation between the two lines is within the margin of measurement error.

After reading this entire thread, I would suggest that money spent on driving school would be money well spent. Certainly, better driving skills mean more than 10 HP in most situations that matter.

And you will be a safer driver to boot!

Bob B. here we come!

:D

"Sorry I should have explained, the two graphs are two versions of the tweeks that were done to the chip....."


Ed


"To me, the graph looks like the variation between the two lines is within the margin of measurement error."



I would certainlly agree that the difference in the two graphs I showed could, and likely is a result of measurement error. But I have been impressed with how close the numbers are on the dyno pulls I have done (all at the same shop over a 3 month or so period). Numbers I have gotten were something like this:

Baseline Run: NO DATA.....I know, I know.....

Chip + Intake + 17" stock wheels: 198hp

Chip + Intake + Dansk Sausage muffler + 17" wheels: 197 HP

Chip + Intake + headers/cats/stock muffler + 17" wheels: 203 hp

Chip + Intake + Headers/Cats/Stock Muffler + 18" wheels: 201 hp


Those runs represent a small sample size, but the correlation between the kinds of things done to the car and the HP seem to be pretty close. I understand that the different runs were done (all with a warm engine) under different environmental temperature and humidity conditions, but the dyno tech said the software adjusts for the different environmental conditions.

OK, here is what I am hoping to do this summer when the folks at Autothority Pitstop move to their new location outside of DC and set up their dyno. We have been planning for some time now to fine tune the chip I got from them real-time to my car, but before they start I will see if I can get them put the stock programming back in and I will do that missing baseline dyno run.

We can then put back in the current version of the chip I am using and we will try to tweek it. I would do that now if they had their dyno working but it will probably be 3 months until it is online. BTW, I am not concerned with peak HP, come on, this is a 2.7L car. What I am interested in is responsiveness and setting up the car for maximum efficiency with high octane gas, but not at the expense of abusing the car, fun stuff.....


Ed

:dance: :dance: :dance: