Ignition switch replaced...now won't start
Hi, Ignition switch was acting up on my Boxster 98 so I replaced it. Turned the key on, all the lights lit but the engine did not turn.
I read that there is a fuse that needs to be tested (will do that next). If that fails, will test voltage going to the starter. Are these good troubleshooting steps or should I start somewhere else? |
Double check your work, then try another switch.
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Make sure you bought the correct switch. There was an update at one point and if the whole lock assembly was replaced on your car, you may need the newer switch. Happened to me on a 2000S.
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Thank you particlewave. This is my second switch...both did the same. Will call provider about getting a third replacement. Tested all fuses by the pedals and all were good. Starter is not that easy to access to tap on. Is there any relay or fuse that I am missing? In reference to double checking my work, once you figure out how to fit under the tight space, it is not difficult to do. You remove the screws, disconnect the "bad" switch, replace it for the new one ("good one") and then you insert it back on. Then tighten the screws back. I did noticed some grease on coming from the mechanical part of the switch where the electrical connector inserts. Will see about uploading a picture if I can
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Thank you dghii. You are right. Ignition switches are completely different. They are not interchangeable.
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Pull the start lock relay out, then insert a jumper wire between pins 30 and 87. Turn the key to start. If it cranks, the issue is likely with the DME/security lockout. If it still won't crank, the issue is likely the starter/power.
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Jumping the relay will tell a lot. If it cranks, you'll need to do some testing to figure out what is locking it out.
Start lock relay is in the trunk on the left side. Relay #7 is in the lower left corner: http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1550540568.jpg |
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I had a similar problem. Turned out to be the positive "ground" had corrosion. It is located in the engine compartment inside a small plastic rectangular box at the top of the engine near the fire wall. Pop open the box and check the connection for rust on a loose nut.
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That's called the "start lock relay".
When all conditions are met, the relay allows the car to start. The main things you're bypassing are the clutch switch and transponder pickup coil, IIRC. I'll get out the shop manuals this weekend and delve deeper, but you can start by looking at those two things. The clutch switch is easy enough to check with a DVM. The transponder coil is around the ignition and since you were in that area, it might be the more likely culprit (wires got unplugged, pinched or the coil moved and now is not communicating with the pill in the key head). |
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