Hello, hoping someone can help.

Looking for an original ECU file to flash to my ME7.2 ECU. 2000 Boxster S. DME PN is 996.618.605.00. HW version 261204790.

I'm using a MPPS V18, and can communicate with it in boot mode. Able to read the corrupted flash but I don't have anything to write. I bought a file online for 10 bucks that is supposed to work, but is showing as a 513kb file instead of 512kb.

Been told different tools add different headers, so not sure what to do next. Just need to write something to it, then I can change the options back to my vehicle in PIWIS.

email is danwec at gmail dot com if would rather email.

Cheers!

I remember an after market part to attach to under the front bumper, boomerang shaped metal piece.

I have had the 25 years so it might of been long ago.

Is this ringing a bell, are they still available?

DCM

With the inspection out of the way, time to turn my intention to improving things I don't fully like yet. One of the bigger ones is the feel of the brakes. First question is whether this is expected behavior for these 986 cars or whether it is my specific car having an issue.

The thing I don't like is that the pedal continues to move down when increasing brake effort. So going from light to hard braking means my foot goes down more. What I would like is to have a rock solid brake pedal. Once starting to brake the pedal shouldn't move down noticeably when increasing brake effort.

I have driven a fair amount of different cars, old and new and found that it differs car by car. New toyota cars having a fairly spongy pedal, older BMWs having a solid pedal etc. So as for the first question, what is the Boxster supposed to be like?

Little detail is that I have the 'S' brakes on my base model. But also the base brakes were feeling the same to me. All out brake power is fine, I can decelerate quickly.

Thanks for any input pointing me to either fixing my car or improving :D

P.S. I have talked to a few 996 owners and a common thing seems to be to change brake pads to aftermarket brands to improve brake feel. For me that is a bit of an odd thing, because although I understand the physics and see how that can improve the braking, I'd like to think that OEM pads should at least feel ok.

does anyone know where the line coming from fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail attaches to the engine.

Hi all
Looking for a nice, NON-BURN, 986 headlight set. Also would consider a Xenon style as long as its not too "funky"
Would have to be shipped here to Newfoundland, Canada
My first "Looking to buy" post. Hope its correct lol

I’ve done the search here, globally and spoke with dealer parts people and suppliers. I still don’t have an answer.
What I’m attempting to accomplish is about a 10mm lowering of a 99 for a slight handling benefit while largely retaining a decent ride quality. It just seems like it sits a little tall.
I’m pointed towards ROW 030 springs but the effects on ride are unclear. So I’m looking for someone with experience using different springs, especially ROW 030. Open to Eibach or H&R or anything providing the desired results!
Also a shock recommendation with them would be helpful.
For background, I do have a set of Koni Sports and Vogtland springs intended for my 02 S but that a bit down the road as I have to install the rebuilt engine.
Again, not trying to drop radically but staying close to the current great ride quality, keeping in mind the reality that shorter is stiffer with springs.

Looking for an H&R Spring setup if someone upgraded to coilovers or going back to stock. In TN, willing to pay for shipping if someone has a nice setup.

Let me know.
Thanks.

Engine from a 2000 Boxster S. Valves met pistons, especially cylinder 3. The piston and rod in cylinder 3 as well as the bank 1 head were damaged beyond repair.



The engine has been disassembled down to the bearing carrier. Cylinder 3 has some minor scratches in the cylinder wall. The pistons and rods (other than cylinder 3) look OK. The crankshaft and bearing carrier should be OK, but will have to be disassembled for verification.
The IMS bearing has not failed and appears good.

The origin of the failure appears to be the cam chain tensioner pads that wore down to the point that a chain skipped enough to put the camshafts out of time.

more pictures here
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1530399998819699

$500 or best offer.

Contact me if you need specific parts.

Located in Laval, Quebec.

Last week, the brake wear indicator light came on on the dashboard :eek: Since you can't tell which brake pads are involved on a Boxster 986 (and it can't be diagnosed via Durametric either), I removed all the wheels today and visually inspected the pads. Just as I expected (I don't drive many miles a year), none of the pads were worn down to the wear indicator; in fact, all the pads still have at least 3 to 4 mm of material left before reaching the indicator :confused: To be safe, I also disconnected the plug at each brake pad to measure the resistance; a short circuit in one of the plugs could potentially trigger a false warning. Below are 3 photos of the "operation".

Questions:

1. The resistance value shown on the multimeter (for all 4 brakes) is identical to that of a new wear indicator (which I had already ordered). Does this mean there is nothing wrong with my wear indicators?
2. What, then, could be the cause?
3. Is it true that the dashboard light only comes on when there is a "closed circuit"? In other words, when the wear indicator makes contact with ground/the brake disc?

But now for question 4:

4. After reinstalling all the old pads and indicators... the dashboard warning has disappeared (for now)... :? Anyone have an explanation?

Just posting an update- I solved the issue of my trunk lid not opening with the remote. I know others have had the same problem, so hope this helps.

The car would get the signal, the LED would light steady, the alarm module would read that button 2 was being received, but nothing would happen. I assumed the actuator was dead. Checked it by bumping it to ground and it worked, and the circuit had continuity throughout. However the drive link output to the actuator would return a negative result.

In PIWIS, I noticed there was no Country assigned to the alarm unit. Just dashes. I selected US, and now the release works just fine.

I think this is related to the car being without battery power all winter before I bought it, and it had reverted to initial delivery mode. Previous owner had no idea why interior lights, etc wouldn't work. I did a vehicle handover on PIWIS which fixed all the issues, but I believe you also have to add a country to the alarm unit at the same time if you're recovering the car from initial delivery state, which is what it reverts back to if without power for an extended period of time.

Hope this helps!

My old build thread for this car got purged off this site a few years ago so I'll try to fill in its story.






In 2015 I bought a Karmann Ghia. My wife was hella jealous, and she said she wanted a Porsche. She found a 1999 Porsche boxster. We got it. Damnd if that didn't change my perception.


That boxster was fun. BUT It wasn't a power house, and the engine made me nervous (I still sent it). So I thought about what I wanted from a car.

I wanted reliability.
I wanted parts availability.
I wanted POWER.
I wanted engine noises.

So in 2019 I bought a second boxster. I shoved a 4.3 Chevy truck engine in it. I supercharged the truck engine. and I resprayed the car.

all was good for a time. I learned about what works and what doesn't. I learned more about paint and body work. I learned more about welding. I learned what stresses and tolerneses this chassis can take. MOST importantly I learned that this IS the PERFECT car for my soul.

Then it came time to implement all the things I've learned.

That time is now.

Hi All,
I’m back after a few years of not have end a 986. My 2003 Boxster S arrived to day on a truck (🙏B.A.T!). Black on black. It seems fantastic except either a belt squeek or (worse) a waterpump. Hopefully nothing past that.
My first question: Does anyone know a mechanic in San Francisco that they would currently recommend? I used to have Auto Sport Haus on Ellis keep my 2000 base model running. Thanks, and glad to be back! Pics coming soon-after I wash off the road dirt

The old expression about giving just enough knowledge to get into trouble.... but not out of it.

2000 Boxster S. I'm in North America. I was reprogramming my DME map today, (PIWIS 3) as I'm on a ROW map which only shows bank 1 camshaft angle/deviation. The OBD LEV map shows both for some reason. I wanted to do an annual check on deviation since I have a little variocam plastic in my oil, then flash back. Everything going fine, but when flashing the ROW map back, it failed around 85%. I'm guessing because of voltage drop as I had it on a battery tender but not a full charger.

DME now seems completely bricked. It shows up as "Unprogrammed DME" in the control modules. with no part numbers or ID.
In manual programming the only options are OBD or ROW, and then "no relevent flash files" comes up.

If I go into developer mode with no rules, I can't even force a program into it as for some reason it's showing as a 5_2 (It's a 7_2) and the files in PIWIS are reflecting that. None of them will load.

If I go into coding instead of programming, most fields come up as negative response, etc. None of the proper numbers. The block 1-10 numbers are just errors.

After trying everything I could, I checked fuses just in case, but they're good.
Spent all day at this, and now I'm at a loss, before I have it towed to the dealer, can anyone offer any suggestions or paths in PIWIS to reprogram the DME? I have all the relevent prorgraminng codes for the car.
I also know the names of the map files that work for this DME, but can't get a way to force them either. but given there is not even an ID for the dme anymore, it's past mapping, and needs to be reprogrammed.

Thanks for any help. can PM and then email/chat if able.

Edit- now looking for the flash file for a 2000 Boxster S. Any configuration, just a valid file for a ME 7_2 to get it going again. If can help, please PM or email danwec at Gmail dot Com. Thanks

Hello all. Since coming out of winter storage, my 2000 S alarm won't arm properly.
I get the honk, and dome light comes on a second or so after locking. The dash led flashes twice quickly every few seconds. All signs of not arming.
In PIWIS with the car locked, everything is showing closed/locked/safe locked.

There are no alarm faults stored after locking and checking.

There was no country code, just dashes, so I put US (I'm in Canada), no effect.
I'm at a loss now, since nothing abnormal is being reported. Anyone have any ideas?

Pics of the states attached.

Thanks.

I have a '99 with 104K miles. IMS bearing was done and the car has been impeccably cared for mechanically and cosmetically. I love the car so I have been driving it to work, which is about 65 miles each way, mostly highway at 70-75 MPH. So the engine hums along at about 3200 +/- RPMs for an hour straight, each way.

My wife thinks I'm crazy putting miles on the car but I love it and prefer driving it over my new 2025 Ford. Anyone else do long daily commutes?