My excellent condition 2003 Boxster has metal shavings all over the oil filter. 85k 2.7, i haven't bore scoped yet but I'm sure it's toast. Engine still cranks but no start. Multiple engine codes thrown. Car is in really good shape, everything works top in great shape. Paint shiny and interior shows minimal wear. There were no check engine lights on, car was running good. I have owned it for 3 years and put about 4,000 mi on it, but I've changed the oil three times in that time. I always looked at the oil filter like the forums said. Never had any pesky check engine lights except for an airbag code which I figured out. I have a foxwell scanner. I bought the car for for $5,500, which I thought wasn't bad. At the time the only thing wrong with it was it needed new tires and the convertible top wasn't working because of broken plastic gears which I replaced with brass ones. I love the car and really enjoy driving it so I'm probably going to go ahead and put a new engine in. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so it doesn't overwhelm me but I am wondering if I should spend the extra money to go ahead and try to get an S engine or just get a replacement used 2.7? What do you guys think I know I'm not going to ever recoup my money out of it but yada yada I might as well fix it. Thank you

Noticed a slight leak that appears to be coming from the RH cam actuator.

Am I correct that this can be removed without and danger to cam timing?

I’d like to seal it up but I don’t want to remove it if I need to lock the cams or anything.

With the Variocam + system, not having the slipper type guide rails that adjust timing, I would think it would be safe.

Anyone done this job or any advice?

Hi all

Two posts in a day. I am on a roll! :)

OK, so am installing Bilstein struts in the rear of my 99 base (product # 113320)

Two questions.

1) They came with 2 short and 2 longer bump stops. For the rear, should I use the small ones (the OEM had short ones).

2) On the 22-113320 strut "shaft", it came with a small tampered ring or washer, about 7mm thick (see attached pic). The old shocks did not have any. Should I remove it or keep it (the pictures on different sites show no "ring" for the rear struts , but rings for the front). The product # is on my struts so I know the one I have are the correct ones (#22-113320 = rear and #22-113313 for the front). I should add that when I tighten the nuts, the most I can do is that is sit flush with the shocks. When the old strut, I could tighten the bold more and see 3 treads.

Attached is a picture pointing to the ring I am referring to and that came with my B4 #22-113320 rear strut but this picture is of a front strut. So I am so confused. I know I have the correct parts, but why a "ring"? Should I just not use it? I already have a tempered washer that is much bigger...

Thank you!
IC

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Hi all

I need your collective wisdom here....

I have a 1999 base and the current rear tires need replacing and they are 255/40 R17 tires (summer tires).

Yet I see on the tag in the frunk that it can also take 225/45 R17.

This is a weekend car my 60 year old body likes to take it easy over the summer: I don't race nor speed. I am not looking to change rim size either. I am looking for comfort. What size would be best? 225/45 R17 or 255/40 R17 tires for this type of driving in the summer?

Thank you!

Icecube

Parting out my racecar and selling some parts.

OEM Basalt Black Hardtop with spinlocks. Some minor swirls in the paint but otherwise great condition. Defroster works great and all seals are great.
$3000 OBO, local pickup only in Brighton, Michigan.

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Hi All, Looking for recommendations for a good (independent) Porsche Mechanic for a PPI on a Boxster 986 in West Denver. 29th Ave and Sheridan Blvd are the closest cross streets if that helps. Thanks as always for the help and guidance, Marty

I'm adding a '03 convertible top with rear glass window to my '98 Boxster and have a question - there is a flap on the convertible top that contains the wire/plug for the rear defrost. That flap has a bungee cord with a hook on it. Anyone know what that hooks onto in the vehicle?

BTW, having a heck of a time getting the convertible top frame bolts to line up so I can get the fasteners started.

Can anyone please identify this outlet and why I have oil dripping from it? It's situated on the right hand rear of the engine underside close to the exhaust header/manifold.
Many thanks in advance.

Hello! Looking at picking up a set of headers for my 986.2, the seller claims they're Fabspeed but i'm not seeing any stamping/branding, they do look pretty well made though. Does anyone know what kind these are? Thanks in advance :)

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1989- 986 Boxster Base silver with gray interior

I haven't been active in the forum the last couple of years so forgive my request. I need some help in selling my 1998 2.7 Boxster. Below is a list of the repairs and upgrades
New rear Koni sport (Struts)shocks.
Bearings replaced
New Water Pump
Replaced coolant tank and hoses
Head gaskets on both banks replaced
Resurfaced valves
Axels rebuilt and new boots.
New break pads
Exhaust manifolds repaired
New German A5 Acoustic cloth top with rear view glass.Tires still have 7/32 mm.
Head lights and tail lights work.
Things wrong with the car
Ran out of time before I got into the Transmission Issues. It has over 176k on this trans so it is going to have trouble eventually. The fluid has been tested for filings and it shows heavy filings.
The passenger side seat is a mess.
Small dent on the right side hood is nickel in size.

I have a 2002 Boxster S currently at 32000 miles. Mostly stock (Numeric shifter and cables are my only mods). I am pretty sure everything else on it is factory original.

When I bought it three years ago, it took a long time to start and was very weak cranking. Within three days of getting it home, it wouldn't crank at all. It turned out the battery was 11 years old. I replaced the battery and it's started nice and strong ever since. Turn the key, a couple cranks (about 1 - 2 seconds) and vroom - it's running. Instant like you expect from a new car.

Until a couple weeks ago. I had one or two cold starts that took a few moments longer than usual to crank. It cranks strong, it just took a little longer. It happened once, i didn't worry about it. Then it happened again. Maybe every 5th start or so it cranked a little longer before turning over.

Now it is happening every two or three starts and cranking for 3-4 seconds before starting. Those cranks are strong. It's not weak starting at all, just slow. It's mostly cold starts but it has happened once or twice on a warm start.

Fresh oil change within the past month. Oil level is good. Battery cables are tight. 93 octane gas from mostly the same place every fill up since i bought it. Once it's running, it runs well. No hesitation, mis-fires, ticks, or extra noise etc.

I'm in the deep south. Temps are warm lately (70-80F). It was starting faster during the winter.

Looking for ideas of where and what to investigate. Do these have a cold start injector specifically for cold starts?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!

Resolving to drive the Boxster more, I took my grandson Brisen (along with my son in law Jalen) on his first Porsche ride today, he loved it :⁠-⁠) We stayed in the neighborhood since we had a non standard amount of passengers :⁠-⁠)

So I have a 2003 Boxster 3.2 with 79,000 on the clock that I bought as a project.

Having noticed the build up of brown little bits in the coolant, I flushed the system a few times and got it back to what I thought was clear. Since however, I have found the same buildup as pictured in the attached.

Having seen the chocolate intermix in most cases I was hoping it might be the leftovers of the cooling system flush, but completed a combustion leak test in the coolant reservoir just to have a little more confidence moving forward with the project.
The results, again pictured in the attached came back positive. The fluid remained blue for a few minutes but then began to change. I completed the test again with the engine at operating temperature and the fluid remained blue throughout the process. Later research explained that this could be due to the engine heat and expansion closing any cracks.

From this I have removed all of the spark plugs and performed a leak down test on the cylinders from cold. All six plugs look consistent with carbon deposits and no signs of coolant contamination along with the carbon buildup within the cylinders. The results of the leak down test were consistent across all cylinders with minimal pressure lost other than that coming through the oil cap and dip stick from the expected blow by. No bubbling coolant, no exhaust or intake escape and no hissing from the other cylinders.

Because the car was a project that was supposed to be mainly bodywork from a small frontal I can't comment on coolant loss prior because it has never been on the road. The only coolant loss I had put down to the system bleeding itself and the coolant pressure test I completed seemed to be fine.

During the tests the engine fans kick in and the engine doesn't seem to overheat. The temperature builds steadily and it takes some time and consistent revs to persuade the fans to kick in.

Would a leaking heat exchanger possibly result in a positive with the combustion leak test

If there are any suggestions out there as to a direction to explore or highlight any steps I may have missed before resorting to having to drop the engine for confirmation it would be much appreciated.

Many thanks.

Hi guys.

I'm starting this new thread because I think it's a topic that will interest many of you.

The goal is to allow anyone who wants to modify their car's electronics to do so safely and confidently, without causing any problems.

Throughout this post, I'll be discussing some brands. I want to make it clear that I'm a distributor for Dimsport, but they don't pay me or give me anything for free. I'll share both the good and bad points about their company—all true, but always based on my opinion and experience from 25 years of business dealings. The same applies to the other companies I mention.

Let's begin:

The first thing we need to do is read the maps.

We have two options: via OBD or by removing the ECU, desoldering the memory chip, and reading it with a desktop programmer.

I recommend OBD; it's non-invasive, fast, and clean. Desoldering and soldering the memory chip requires skill and a suitable workspace.
Keep in mind that an ESD discharge caused by a bag of apples left by your brother-in-law on the kitchen counter where you're working can kill the ECU.

If you still decide to proceed with this method, make sure you have a decent desktop programmer and, above all, a socket!

Before touching the flash memory, mark the position of pin 1. This is always marked with a dot on the memory chip.
If not, by reading the silkscreen, pin 1 is the bottom left pin.

Also note that there are no free pins; it's a PSOP44, meaning 44 pins.

Sometimes there are 48, 50, or 52 pins, and the memory is offset. If so, mark its exact position. A picture is worth a thousand memories.

I have to pick up my daughter, we'll continue later.

https://youtu.be/1ja1Kp_GZvc?si=_cO0Xg_xzJOyA_7c

Has anyone used the technique shown in this video for polishing the windshield on their Boxster? My car has the original windshield and after over 150,000 miles of driving, it could use some help.

I own a dual action polisher, and my only monetary expense would be for the polish. My concern is that I don't want to damage my windshield.

Thanks in advance for comments and suggestions.