Hello all! Recently joined the club with an '03 986 S. I had about a 15-year hiatus in my P-car ownership from my previous 993. Bought and sold before the air cooled bubble started...

Happy to be back in the game. I will have had the Boxster for 3 weeks as of this Saturday and we are still getting acquainted with each other. Previous owner was/is amazing. IMS/RMS/Clutch all done within the last 10k miles, has a newer top installed, hardtop included, aftermarket head unit/backup camera, belts, tensioners done and just generally well maintained. I'm officially the 3rd owner. The color is what caught my eye, the owner is what I bought.

Initial mods will focus on exhaust and interior refreshing.

A pic from the Blue Ridge Parkway.



Apologies for the duplicate posts…

On a base 99. No other damage to the outer race or balls or anything. Might be older damage that has not progressed? Joint started throwing a little grease so I thought I was just replacing the boot. Maybe it is new damage because the grease got a little low? Symptoms? Not really, I was just fixing the boot.

2003, 2.7, 5 speed, 118k miles.


So here is the story.
Per the previous owner, water pump was replaced about 5 years ago, 10k miles ago.
Coolant needed to be added a few times as the system burped here and there. That was shortly after I got the car, that is 5 years ago.

No problems with coolant whatsoever. A few times on the autocross, never had overheated even in ambient at 25 C or more.
Fans would kick in and do the job.

Fast forward to yesterday.
I drove about 70-80 miles roundtrip. Going there. No problem. AC was on, car was fine.
On the way back, same thing. It was warmer, no AC, as roof was down. Car was OK. No sign of cooling issues.
Ambient about 22 C.
I stopped to drop off my work friend and I parked on his driveway.
The driveway points up. Not super steep, but significant.
I left the car running. At some point I heard the fans to kick in. Normal, right? I thought I sniffed something sweet, like coolant, but everything seemed normal. I pulled out and I see a puddle.

I see no leaks in front or back. It was all from the reservoir. Over the cap.
It was not a lot.
The level was low, but the light was not flashing. Temp was 190 F.

I got back home - short drive, like 3 miles.
Light started flashing. I gently added coolant and water (I have concentrate - so half water, half coolant). It took about 1.5 liter. Initially did not take much, but then when I opened the vent valve, it burped more.
Fans would kick in. All seemed OK. Some little air here and there.

I have not checked today (did not drive), but the coolant went down a little more, of course. No leaks.


So, it begs a question - is the water pump "weak" and it does not like pumping "uphill"?
Or it is not the best water pump? I am not sure what was put in there.

Or maybe it is normal?

The coolant lines are long and two radiators on the front car. I get it make take a little time.

Oh, the radiators were hot. Circulation is there. Just not sure if "enough".

Or maybe someone else has some other idea.
The car was parked for several days. I do not drive it so often anymore.

Need a complete vanity mirror with the lights for my visor.

Cover cracked at the hinge.

Either with the airbag warning or without, but would prefer without.

Thanks!

Hi all, I got into my 2002 Boxster after driving a short distance and all of sudden the gears were loose and flopping around. Does this sound like the shifter cables broke? I was able to move the gears in every direction but not able to drive the car. I had it towed to the shop for a diagnostic on Monday. I'm not a DYI guy and wanted to ask what this might cost. For months I've had a rear clunking sound on the left side. Could this be related? Thanks in advance your advice.

I have a 2003 986 with 40 k , within the last few months it’s developed a dollar bill size oil leak on the passenger side rear near the rear drive axel . The leak only appears after driving at higher rpm’s . If it just sits , and , or runs at lower rpm’s , no leak . I have had it up on jack stands and can not find where it’s leaking from . Dust plate removed . Not the oil fill pipe . Not the air/oil separator . My question is valve covers or gasket . Not sure where to look for that gasket . Car runs great , recent oil change , cut open oil filter - very clean .

I got this wierd issue, its a beeping coming from the area of the clutch pedle, its a speakers somewhere for sure. its not the alarm i already unhooked that and its still there, radio out no change.

Perhaps something aftermarket? GPS tracker perhaps? i am going nuts.

Video: https://youtu.be/BpZqm48LKyI?si=0iguRyu0PM96n6eK

Need “sail” panel for LHD and the entire driver’s side wheel well shroud.

Don’t really need the mirror adjustment switch.

1998 986

Thanks.

Hi All
My 2000 986 S had a new roof installed (rear glass window) before I bought the car. However, I have noticed these gaps and was hoping someone could tell me how to fix them?
I have no elastic to trim or replace and I cannot see any method for adjusting the hard plastic, so any advice would be appreciated. Note, it is on both sides.

Does anybody know what is involved in retrofitting power mirrors to my manual mirror 986?

It would be really convenient to have these as the mirrors are the only things we need to adjust between myself and my wife. Seat, steering wheel etc are good for both of us. My current manual mirrors are hard to adjust (do seem to have a lot of play in them and / or stickyness) and as usual the passenger side is fiddly to adjust from the drivers seat.

Mainly looking at things involved in wiring (inside the door, through the car) and whether the standard mirror mounts etc can be used still.

Completely lost at this point so would really appreciate any help or guidance. Thank you!


2001 Boxster S, driver memory seat completely dead. All seat motors stopped at once.

The driver’s seat has full memory. Recently I reprogrammed the seat memory so position 1 is associated with the key/remote. A couple days later, the seat ended up in an odd position and stopped moving entirely.

Current symptoms:

* Driver seat does not move in any direction.
* The seat adjustment levers still produce audible clicks/relay sounds when pressed.
* The memory system is at least partly alive (?) as the mirrors still adjust/recall.
* Passenger seat works normally.
* All relevant seat fuses tested at roughly 12.5 V on both sides.
* I removed the seat cushion for access.
* Identified the memory-seat module connector block:
* #1–4 = individual seat motor outputs
* #5 = seat adjustment switch input
* #6 = main power supply
* #7 = large white memory/mirror/key-related connector
* Unplugged and reseated #6 main power with the battery disconnected. No change.
* I also unplugged/reseated the large #7 white connector. No change.
* I disconnected/reconnected the car battery to fully reset the module. No change.
* Manual fore/aft emergency adjustment described in the owner’s manual does not appear to exist on my particular seat motor; the motor end is just flat metal with no accessible hex socket.
* I have not yet direct-powered an individual motor.
* Since every motor stopped simultaneously, I’m suspecting either:
* loss of the common high-current motor feed/ground,
* failed internal main relay/output stage in the memory module,
* or some other common module fault rather than multiple motors failing together.

Main questions:

1. Has anyone seen a 986 memory-seat module fail this way, ie relay clicks but no motor output on any axis?
2. What is the best way to test the high-current supply at connector #6 under load?
3. Can I safely direct-power the fore/aft motor through connector #4 to confirm the motor/mechanism itself is good?
4. Is there any known interaction with key-memory programming that can leave the module in a locked/fault state?

I've done a bunch of searching but haven't found a definitive answer. I was at the track last Thursday and after my very first session (of course) it was running really rough. I checked the codes and I had one for bank 1 intake deviation or something like that (I was a bit flustered and didn't make note of it before I cleared it). It was cleared but still running really poorly at idle, but just driving it normally was ok. I checked the codes again and had a bunch of misfires, but not the bank 1 error. When I checked cam deviation bank 1 was at 17 and bank 2 was -0.2. I checked the wiring to the solenoid and unplugged and replugged it and made it back home. Last night I checked the Ohms and it checked out ok, and I also put 12V to the plug and it would click, but just a 'light' click. I did the same on bank 2 and the sound was distinctly different, it sounded like it went in and came back out, as I would expect. I took the solenoid out and when I apply 12V I get this Does that look like correct operation? And if so, I guess I'm pulling the actuator to see if the plunger is stuck?

Looks like age finally caught up to mine. Two tabs on one grill, and one on the other grill are now broken. Has anyone repaired these with a little ingenuity? I'm reticent to buy another used pair for fear of having the same issue, and I'm absolutely not paying the price they want for new ones.

Thanks!

Cross-post from Pelican. Excellent hard top for sale. Local pick up in Western NY.
Can deliver to Watkins Glen.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-boxster-cayman-996-997-parts-sale-wanted/1194950-986-boxster-hard-top.html

Quick history. I've had the car 12 years, put 50K miles on it. Had the trans rebuilt, security module replaced, etc. over the years. It's been running perfectly with nothing but gas, oil, tires and pads for the last few years.

So after being fine for ages, I had some stalling and non restarting when hot. New CPS and MAF element, and everything was perfect. After this work, I cleared all codes so I'd know if anything happened. Then I left the car parked outside, just once, and it rained. Now it's only running on 5 cylinders, and I need help with diagnosis.

Full disclosure. Years ago the soft top drains blocked, water got into the cabin and the first I knew was when there was so much water I get wet shoes through 1 1/2" foam and carpet. That cost big time for a used (old one was not repairable) security module, and I seem to recall the DME had to be repaird, but I"m not sure now.

So, the misfire starts. As I'd recently done the CPS and MAF, I checked those connections and anything in the vicinity, since I figured maybe I hadn't fully clicked something home and it had now partially come loose. Nope.

I read the codes with my Foxwell knock off Duramtric tool and had:

P0300 - Misfire detected
P1301 - Misfire cyl 1
P1319 - Refer to service manual - emission-relevant cylinder misfire
P1313 - Refer to service manual - Misfire Cylinder 1 (Emission Relevant)

In the past, I think I had DME code 22, which I think is incorrect load from DME to the tiptronic DME. I assumed this was related to the MAF, but I'm mentioning it here for completeness.

So I did the normal things. Swap the coil pack between 1 and 2. Nope, still on cyl 1. I also swapped spark plugs between 1 and 2 just in case. Nope. At the same time, I was obviously checking for moisture anywhere and cleaning things. Nothing.

I have pulled up the carpet under/behing the seat, and there's no moisture or evidence of any having been there. So I don't think it's that. Note. I know the drains are blocked again, possibly permanently, as we have a magnolia tree and those effing leaves have got in there and I can't clear them with air or trying to use stainless steel wire in a drill as a snake - hence I always park it inside... except this once.

So, I need diagnosis help from those who know these brilliant little infuriating pieces of poopoo!