As the title suggests, I need to get a few wires from the frunk and battery area into the interior. Frunk to battery is easy, so let's focus on battery to interior.

Original loom has three entry points, one left, one right and the battery positive. Left and right ones are completely molded, the only way I found to get wires out (or in for that matter) is to destroy it. So I don't want to do that for the additional wires I need to run (any wires I don't need anymore might as well be left in place).

So I am looking for suggestions on a place to get some wires in. It should be accessible from both sides (that is probably the difficult part). And on top, any suggestions on rubber parts to nicely fill the hole again would be nice (I don't know the english term, but would be looking for a rubber feedthrough which either is quite tight already or can be filled with rubbery stuff).

The wires I need to run:
- +12V power steering pump to main circuit breaker box (the white box directly behind the +12V battery connection)
- Brake signal switch (I have only one signal now, ABS 5.7 requires both the NO and NC contacts)
- +12V fused for the ABS (so to the regular fuse box)
- CAN signal pair of ABS unit (will end up in rear trunk for Audi ECU

I might have missed one, but I guess these are the main. So not that many, but still some to feed through. Thanks for any pointers. Will also look in my wreck to judge locations, but I'm sure someone has done something similar already (radio wires or what).

Posted Elsewhere trying here

Hi guys,

Hoping for some collective wisdom on my 1999 2.5L Boxster. It has developed the classic flare and thud on the 2nd-to-3rd upshift.

This was happening before I touched the gearbox. I did a full fluid and filter service using Febi ATF (LT71141 spec) hoping it would be a miracle in a bottle fix, but the thud has decided to stick around.

The Symptom: Under light throttle (the pootling to the shops range), the revs flare up by about 300-500 RPM mid-shift, and then 3rd gear engages with a heavy thud as the clutch finally bites.

The Data (via ThinkDiag): I’ve been logging the data, and it seems my Tiptronic has some serious trust issues. The adaptation value for "2-3 shift, lower rpm range" is sitting at 1.39 bar, and I’ve watched it climb as high as 1.49 bar on a hot run.

My Theory: My stab in the dark is that the TCU learned this high-pressure correction to overcome the old, tired fluid. Now that the fluid is fresh and slippery with a new filter, the car is still using that massive bar pressure to slam the clutches shut. I've noticed that if I drive it with more purpose (steady 20% throttle on once on the relearn drive ), the pressure dropped to 1.29 bar and it behaves much better. The moment I go back to being a sensible citizen at low revs, it spikes right back up.

Next Steps: I’m in the process of trying to get the car to relearn. My ThinkDiag doesn't cover a full adaptation reset, so I tried a manual process, but I'm not sure it worked as the values haven't changed. I haven't really pushed it into the medium or upper rev ranges because the thud is so pronounced, but I guess I could try once the trans is fully warmed up to see if it helps.

I'm in Oxfordshire and I think I need to give this TCU a lobotomy so it forgets its old bad habits and starts fresh with the new fluid. Any specialists or anyone mobile area with a PIWIS who can do a full adaptation reset? Also curious if you guys think a hard reset is the cure, seen this before or if I should be looking at the solenoid with values this high.

Details:
5-Speed Layout: The log shows "Selected gear" values plus more ranging from 1 through 5, plus Reverse.
Adaptation Buckets: The "lower, medium, and upper" RPM range adaptation categories are a signature of the Bosch TCU logic used to control the ZF 5HP19.
Any thoughts or advice would be great.
------------------------------

Ok a couple of updates....I hooked up the ThinkDiag while the car was stationary and idling. The 2-3 lower rpm shift pressure is sitting at 1.39 bar without the car even moving. Probably confirms the value is hard-coded in the adaptation memory and isn't just a live calculation......

I also have a DTC 108 (Supply Voltage) showing up, the battery has been a bit low lately. Even though my live logs show about 14.0V while driving, I'm wondering if the low voltage during startup is stopping the TCU from correctly saving any new adaptation data or if it’s just making the computer a bit grumpy

Hello all, as the title said, as part of the spring refresh, just changed all fluids in the new-to-me 2000 S. 126k kms. Runs great. No current issues.

Had a mild heart arrhythmia when I saw the chunks as I was pouring out the filter housing, and found them to be non-magnetic, and pretty much confirmed to be the variocam actuator seal.
Everything still reads fine (I have a PIWIS), but of course I'm not sure how long it will work for. There was only a tiny bit of chunks (pic attached for fun) but it'll fail eventually I'm sure.

I'm planning on replacing them in the car, not pulling the engine. It looks to be decent single day job once I get ahold of the camshaft tools, etc.
I know how to wrench, but this motor is new to me. I have the pelican book, Bentley Manual and aformentioned PIWIS 3, , but my main question is, what else can and should be done while I'm in there? Variocam pads, Chain guides, etc?

Thanks so much- like I said, very new to this engine.

My excellent condition 2003 Boxster has metal shavings all over the oil filter. 85k 2.7, i haven't bore scoped yet but I'm sure it's toast. Engine still cranks but no start. Multiple engine codes thrown. Car is in really good shape, everything works top in great shape. Paint shiny and interior shows minimal wear. There were no check engine lights on, car was running good. I have owned it for 3 years and put about 4,000 mi on it, but I've changed the oil three times in that time. I always looked at the oil filter like the forums said. Never had any pesky check engine lights except for an airbag code which I figured out. I have a foxwell scanner. I bought the car for for $5,500, which I thought wasn't bad. At the time the only thing wrong with it was it needed new tires and the convertible top wasn't working because of broken plastic gears which I replaced with brass ones. I love the car and really enjoy driving it so I'm probably going to go ahead and put a new engine in. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so it doesn't overwhelm me but I am wondering if I should spend the extra money to go ahead and try to get an S engine or just get a replacement used 2.7? What do you guys think I know I'm not going to ever recoup my money out of it but yada yada I might as well fix it. Thank you

Noticed a slight leak that appears to be coming from the RH cam actuator.

Am I correct that this can be removed without and danger to cam timing?

I’d like to seal it up but I don’t want to remove it if I need to lock the cams or anything.

With the Variocam + system, not having the slipper type guide rails that adjust timing, I would think it would be safe.

Anyone done this job or any advice?

Hi all

Two posts in a day. I am on a roll! :)

OK, so am installing Bilstein struts in the rear of my 99 base (product # 113320)

Two questions.

1) They came with 2 short and 2 longer bump stops. For the rear, should I use the small ones (the OEM had short ones).

2) On the 22-113320 strut "shaft", it came with a small tampered ring or washer, about 7mm thick (see attached pic). The old shocks did not have any. Should I remove it or keep it (the pictures on different sites show no "ring" for the rear struts , but rings for the front). The product # is on my struts so I know the one I have are the correct ones (#22-113320 = rear and #22-113313 for the front). I should add that when I tighten the nuts, the most I can do is that is sit flush with the shocks. When the old strut, I could tighten the bold more and see 3 treads.

Attached is a picture pointing to the ring I am referring to and that came with my B4 #22-113320 rear strut but this picture is of a front strut. So I am so confused. I know I have the correct parts, but why a "ring"? Should I just not use it? I already have a tempered washer that is much bigger...

Thank you!
IC

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Hi all

I need your collective wisdom here....

I have a 1999 base and the current rear tires need replacing and they are 255/40 R17 tires (summer tires).

Yet I see on the tag in the frunk that it can also take 225/45 R17.

This is a weekend car my 60 year old body likes to take it easy over the summer: I don't race nor speed. I am not looking to change rim size either. I am looking for comfort. What size would be best? 225/45 R17 or 255/40 R17 tires for this type of driving in the summer?

Thank you!

Icecube

Hi All, Looking for recommendations for a good (independent) Porsche Mechanic for a PPI on a Boxster 986 in West Denver. 29th Ave and Sheridan Blvd are the closest cross streets if that helps. Thanks as always for the help and guidance, Marty

I'm adding a '03 convertible top with rear glass window to my '98 Boxster and have a question - there is a flap on the convertible top that contains the wire/plug for the rear defrost. That flap has a bungee cord with a hook on it. Anyone know what that hooks onto in the vehicle?

BTW, having a heck of a time getting the convertible top frame bolts to line up so I can get the fasteners started.

Can anyone please identify this outlet and why I have oil dripping from it? It's situated on the right hand rear of the engine underside close to the exhaust header/manifold.
Many thanks in advance.

Hello! Looking at picking up a set of headers for my 986.2, the seller claims they're Fabspeed but i'm not seeing any stamping/branding, they do look pretty well made though. Does anyone know what kind these are? Thanks in advance :)

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I have a 2002 Boxster S currently at 32000 miles. Mostly stock (Numeric shifter and cables are my only mods). I am pretty sure everything else on it is factory original.

When I bought it three years ago, it took a long time to start and was very weak cranking. Within three days of getting it home, it wouldn't crank at all. It turned out the battery was 11 years old. I replaced the battery and it's started nice and strong ever since. Turn the key, a couple cranks (about 1 - 2 seconds) and vroom - it's running. Instant like you expect from a new car.

Until a couple weeks ago. I had one or two cold starts that took a few moments longer than usual to crank. It cranks strong, it just took a little longer. It happened once, i didn't worry about it. Then it happened again. Maybe every 5th start or so it cranked a little longer before turning over.

Now it is happening every two or three starts and cranking for 3-4 seconds before starting. Those cranks are strong. It's not weak starting at all, just slow. It's mostly cold starts but it has happened once or twice on a warm start.

Fresh oil change within the past month. Oil level is good. Battery cables are tight. 93 octane gas from mostly the same place every fill up since i bought it. Once it's running, it runs well. No hesitation, mis-fires, ticks, or extra noise etc.

I'm in the deep south. Temps are warm lately (70-80F). It was starting faster during the winter.

Looking for ideas of where and what to investigate. Do these have a cold start injector specifically for cold starts?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!

Resolving to drive the Boxster more, I took my grandson Brisen (along with my son in law Jalen) on his first Porsche ride today, he loved it :⁠-⁠) We stayed in the neighborhood since we had a non standard amount of passengers :⁠-⁠)

So I have a 2003 Boxster 3.2 with 79,000 on the clock that I bought as a project.

Having noticed the build up of brown little bits in the coolant, I flushed the system a few times and got it back to what I thought was clear. Since however, I have found the same buildup as pictured in the attached.

Having seen the chocolate intermix in most cases I was hoping it might be the leftovers of the cooling system flush, but completed a combustion leak test in the coolant reservoir just to have a little more confidence moving forward with the project.
The results, again pictured in the attached came back positive. The fluid remained blue for a few minutes but then began to change. I completed the test again with the engine at operating temperature and the fluid remained blue throughout the process. Later research explained that this could be due to the engine heat and expansion closing any cracks.

From this I have removed all of the spark plugs and performed a leak down test on the cylinders from cold. All six plugs look consistent with carbon deposits and no signs of coolant contamination along with the carbon buildup within the cylinders. The results of the leak down test were consistent across all cylinders with minimal pressure lost other than that coming through the oil cap and dip stick from the expected blow by. No bubbling coolant, no exhaust or intake escape and no hissing from the other cylinders.

Because the car was a project that was supposed to be mainly bodywork from a small frontal I can't comment on coolant loss prior because it has never been on the road. The only coolant loss I had put down to the system bleeding itself and the coolant pressure test I completed seemed to be fine.

During the tests the engine fans kick in and the engine doesn't seem to overheat. The temperature builds steadily and it takes some time and consistent revs to persuade the fans to kick in.

Would a leaking heat exchanger possibly result in a positive with the combustion leak test

If there are any suggestions out there as to a direction to explore or highlight any steps I may have missed before resorting to having to drop the engine for confirmation it would be much appreciated.

Many thanks.

https://youtu.be/1ja1Kp_GZvc?si=_cO0Xg_xzJOyA_7c

Has anyone used the technique shown in this video for polishing the windshield on their Boxster? My car has the original windshield and after over 150,000 miles of driving, it could use some help.

I own a dual action polisher, and my only monetary expense would be for the polish. My concern is that I don't want to damage my windshield.

Thanks in advance for comments and suggestions.