Has anyone tried the 991 style coffin arms on their 986?

Wondering if it provides any improvement..

Out of the blue, I’ve got these two faults. I replaced the pedal sensor with a working one for test purposes, but that didn’t sort out the problem. The car is very difficult to start (feels like no cold start function), then runs at just over 1.000 rpm without responding to the accelerator.

What can I do, any tests you recommend? Might it be an electronic problem? How to diagnose that?

What I did before was changing all 4 lambda sensors, smoke tested the plenum (no leaks) and changed the oil. This should have no impact at all to the faults. No more faults are stored.



Car is a 2001 "S" 986

My car was left open to the elements during a severe storm and the immobilizer was damaged. I removed it and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and while it does behave differently, the windows will not go up or down using the switches, frunk and trunk not unlocking, nor will the car start.****

I was planning on reaching out to ECU doctors in Florida to see if they can repair or buy a used one and use one of the cloning services on ebay.

Last option is to purchase a matching immobilizer, ECU, and Key FOB from ebay. From what I have been reading I do not need the tumbler as I can add the old key blade to the replacement FOB. Is there any other part that I need? Do I need the matching signal transducer (996.618.159.01)? I noticed some sellers including the ignition tumbler, Door tumbler, and the signal transducer. Others just the immobilizer, ECU, and key Fob.

Does anyone know what else I should check for damage? There was water pooled in space below the seats. I have removed all carpet and dried it all out with fans, including the foam under the carpet which took days.

Hello, hoping someone can help.

Looking for an original ECU file to flash to my ME7.2 ECU. 2000 Boxster S. DME PN is 996.618.605.00. HW version 261204790.

I'm using a MPPS V18, and can communicate with it in boot mode. Able to read the corrupted flash but I don't have anything to write. I bought a file online for 10 bucks that is supposed to work, but is showing as a 513kb file instead of 512kb.

Been told different tools add different headers, so not sure what to do next. Just need to write something to it, then I can change the options back to my vehicle in PIWIS.

email is danwec at gmail dot com if would rather email.

Cheers!

I remember an after market part to attach to under the front bumper, boomerang shaped metal piece.

I have had the 25 years so it might of been long ago.

Is this ringing a bell, are they still available?

DCM

With the inspection out of the way, time to turn my intention to improving things I don't fully like yet. One of the bigger ones is the feel of the brakes. First question is whether this is expected behavior for these 986 cars or whether it is my specific car having an issue.

The thing I don't like is that the pedal continues to move down when increasing brake effort. So going from light to hard braking means my foot goes down more. What I would like is to have a rock solid brake pedal. Once starting to brake the pedal shouldn't move down noticeably when increasing brake effort.

I have driven a fair amount of different cars, old and new and found that it differs car by car. New toyota cars having a fairly spongy pedal, older BMWs having a solid pedal etc. So as for the first question, what is the Boxster supposed to be like?

Little detail is that I have the 'S' brakes on my base model. But also the base brakes were feeling the same to me. All out brake power is fine, I can decelerate quickly.

Thanks for any input pointing me to either fixing my car or improving :D

P.S. I have talked to a few 996 owners and a common thing seems to be to change brake pads to aftermarket brands to improve brake feel. For me that is a bit of an odd thing, because although I understand the physics and see how that can improve the braking, I'd like to think that OEM pads should at least feel ok.

does anyone know where the line coming from fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail attaches to the engine.

Hi all
Looking for a nice, NON-BURN, 986 headlight set. Also would consider a Xenon style as long as its not too "funky"
Would have to be shipped here to Newfoundland, Canada
My first "Looking to buy" post. Hope its correct lol

I’ve done the search here, globally and spoke with dealer parts people and suppliers. I still don’t have an answer.
What I’m attempting to accomplish is about a 10mm lowering of a 99 for a slight handling benefit while largely retaining a decent ride quality. It just seems like it sits a little tall.
I’m pointed towards ROW 030 springs but the effects on ride are unclear. So I’m looking for someone with experience using different springs, especially ROW 030. Open to Eibach or H&R or anything providing the desired results!
Also a shock recommendation with them would be helpful.
For background, I do have a set of Koni Sports and Vogtland springs intended for my 02 S but that a bit down the road as I have to install the rebuilt engine.
Again, not trying to drop radically but staying close to the current great ride quality, keeping in mind the reality that shorter is stiffer with springs.

Just posting an update- I solved the issue of my trunk lid not opening with the remote. I know others have had the same problem, so hope this helps.

The car would get the signal, the LED would light steady, the alarm module would read that button 2 was being received, but nothing would happen. I assumed the actuator was dead. Checked it by bumping it to ground and it worked, and the circuit had continuity throughout. However the drive link output to the actuator would return a negative result.

In PIWIS, I noticed there was no Country assigned to the alarm unit. Just dashes. I selected US, and now the release works just fine.

I think this is related to the car being without battery power all winter before I bought it, and it had reverted to initial delivery mode. Previous owner had no idea why interior lights, etc wouldn't work. I did a vehicle handover on PIWIS which fixed all the issues, but I believe you also have to add a country to the alarm unit at the same time if you're recovering the car from initial delivery state, which is what it reverts back to if without power for an extended period of time.

Hope this helps!

The old expression about giving just enough knowledge to get into trouble.... but not out of it.

2000 Boxster S. I'm in North America. I was reprogramming my DME map today, (PIWIS 3) as I'm on a ROW map which only shows bank 1 camshaft angle/deviation. The OBD LEV map shows both for some reason. I wanted to do an annual check on deviation since I have a little variocam plastic in my oil, then flash back. Everything going fine, but when flashing the ROW map back, it failed around 85%. I'm guessing because of voltage drop as I had it on a battery tender but not a full charger.

DME now seems completely bricked. It shows up as "Unprogrammed DME" in the control modules. with no part numbers or ID.
In manual programming the only options are OBD or ROW, and then "no relevent flash files" comes up.

If I go into developer mode with no rules, I can't even force a program into it as for some reason it's showing as a 5_2 (It's a 7_2) and the files in PIWIS are reflecting that. None of them will load.

If I go into coding instead of programming, most fields come up as negative response, etc. None of the proper numbers. The block 1-10 numbers are just errors.

After trying everything I could, I checked fuses just in case, but they're good.
Spent all day at this, and now I'm at a loss, before I have it towed to the dealer, can anyone offer any suggestions or paths in PIWIS to reprogram the DME? I have all the relevent prorgraminng codes for the car.
I also know the names of the map files that work for this DME, but can't get a way to force them either. but given there is not even an ID for the dme anymore, it's past mapping, and needs to be reprogrammed.

Thanks for any help. can PM and then email/chat if able.

Edit- now looking for the flash file for a 2000 Boxster S. Any configuration, just a valid file for a ME 7_2 to get it going again. If can help, please PM or email danwec at Gmail dot Com. Thanks

Hello all. Since coming out of winter storage, my 2000 S alarm won't arm properly.
I get the honk, and dome light comes on a second or so after locking. The dash led flashes twice quickly every few seconds. All signs of not arming.
In PIWIS with the car locked, everything is showing closed/locked/safe locked.

There are no alarm faults stored after locking and checking.

There was no country code, just dashes, so I put US (I'm in Canada), no effect.
I'm at a loss now, since nothing abnormal is being reported. Anyone have any ideas?

Pics of the states attached.

Thanks.

I have a '99 with 104K miles. IMS bearing was done and the car has been impeccably cared for mechanically and cosmetically. I love the car so I have been driving it to work, which is about 65 miles each way, mostly highway at 70-75 MPH. So the engine hums along at about 3200 +/- RPMs for an hour straight, each way.

My wife thinks I'm crazy putting miles on the car but I love it and prefer driving it over my new 2025 Ford. Anyone else do long daily commutes?

Does anyone here have a passenger recline switch for a 2002 Boxster? I had my seats reupholstered and this broke off. I was able to recline the seat back but can't move it forward any longer. If needed I can buy the entire assembly. Kind of annoying but the seats are pretty awesome.

Lastly, not sure how he did this, but the heated seat light now just blinks once and won't stay on. Not a big deal but it was working. (passenger side.) Thanks all.

Hi, I posted a few days ago that I managed to close the hood of my 2007 boxster after hooking up a dead battery. Now, the hood release switch in the cabin won't work and the dash doesnt light up at all when I put in the key.
A few people posted reminding me to try charging it using the charging rod in the fuse box, OR remove the front when and pull the hood release cable.
Thanks for the responses..
Yesterday I ran jumper cables from another car to the charging rod in the fuse box, red to the charging rod, black to the unpainted metal hook in the doorjamb. No luck. It didnt work, the dash didn't light up at all and the hood release switch didn't work. I let it sit and charge for 15 mins, no dash lights, still nothing.
I really hoped to avoid taking the tire off because its in a tight garage.. but then I realized that the locking nut is in either the trunk or the frunk, which are both closed. So now Im really screwed.

Hoping for some advice, is there a charging device that I can buy to and hook up to the cigarette lighter? OR what is the process to get a replacement locking lug nut ? Thanks!