I have a 2003 986 with 40 k , within the last few months it’s developed a dollar bill size oil leak on the passenger side rear near the rear drive axel . The leak only appears after driving at higher rpm’s . If it just sits , and , or runs at lower rpm’s , no leak . I have had it up on jack stands and can not find where it’s leaking from . Dust plate removed . Not the oil fill pipe . Not the air/oil separator . My question is valve covers or gasket . Not sure where to look for that gasket . Car runs great , recent oil change , cut open oil filter - very clean .

Hi All
My 2000 986 S had a new roof installed (rear glass window) before I bought the car. However, I have noticed these gaps and was hoping someone could tell me how to fix them?
I have no elastic to trim or replace and I cannot see any method for adjusting the hard plastic, so any advice would be appreciated. Note, it is on both sides.

Does anybody know what is involved in retrofitting power mirrors to my manual mirror 986?

It would be really convenient to have these as the mirrors are the only things we need to adjust between myself and my wife. Seat, steering wheel etc are good for both of us. My current manual mirrors are hard to adjust (do seem to have a lot of play in them and / or stickyness) and as usual the passenger side is fiddly to adjust from the drivers seat.

Mainly looking at things involved in wiring (inside the door, through the car) and whether the standard mirror mounts etc can be used still.

Completely lost at this point so would really appreciate any help or guidance. Thank you!


2001 Boxster S, driver memory seat completely dead. All seat motors stopped at once.

The driver’s seat has full memory. Recently I reprogrammed the seat memory so position 1 is associated with the key/remote. A couple days later, the seat ended up in an odd position and stopped moving entirely.

Current symptoms:

* Driver seat does not move in any direction.
* The seat adjustment levers still produce audible clicks/relay sounds when pressed.
* The memory system is at least partly alive (?) as the mirrors still adjust/recall.
* Passenger seat works normally.
* All relevant seat fuses tested at roughly 12.5 V on both sides.
* I removed the seat cushion for access.
* Identified the memory-seat module connector block:
* #1–4 = individual seat motor outputs
* #5 = seat adjustment switch input
* #6 = main power supply
* #7 = large white memory/mirror/key-related connector
* Unplugged and reseated #6 main power with the battery disconnected. No change.
* I also unplugged/reseated the large #7 white connector. No change.
* I disconnected/reconnected the car battery to fully reset the module. No change.
* Manual fore/aft emergency adjustment described in the owner’s manual does not appear to exist on my particular seat motor; the motor end is just flat metal with no accessible hex socket.
* I have not yet direct-powered an individual motor.
* Since every motor stopped simultaneously, I’m suspecting either:
* loss of the common high-current motor feed/ground,
* failed internal main relay/output stage in the memory module,
* or some other common module fault rather than multiple motors failing together.

Main questions:

1. Has anyone seen a 986 memory-seat module fail this way, ie relay clicks but no motor output on any axis?
2. What is the best way to test the high-current supply at connector #6 under load?
3. Can I safely direct-power the fore/aft motor through connector #4 to confirm the motor/mechanism itself is good?
4. Is there any known interaction with key-memory programming that can leave the module in a locked/fault state?

Looks like age finally caught up to mine. Two tabs on one grill, and one on the other grill are now broken. Has anyone repaired these with a little ingenuity? I'm reticent to buy another used pair for fear of having the same issue, and I'm absolutely not paying the price they want for new ones.

Thanks!

Hi,

maybe someone with a UK RHD car and Piwis experience can chime in.

I have to setup a M534 for a 986 UK RHD car.

There is no country coding for UK in Piwis. But there are variants for AUS and Japan RHD markets.

So i did setup the M534 as a RdW car, but i'm not shure if that is correct, as usually these cars are all LHD,

Would be nice, if anybody from the UK can solve that question,

Thanks in advance
Markus

Seems like a few months ago people were still complaining.

So, this is a five chain engine, for sure.
I thought all five-chain engines had cable-gas and DME 5.2. Can the 7.2 DME also run the five-chain engines or is something going on here? :confused:

Help!

I have a 2002 Porsche Boxter S, whose engine was rebuilt in 2020 by Flat Six Innovations (Stage 1, 2.6L) and now has approximately 25,000 miles (19,000 on my ownership) on the rebuild.

In early June I took a 2,500 mi trip, and the car ran perfectly, but used about 1qt of 5w40 per 1000 miles. Jake Raby assures me that this is normal for his builds with low tension rings.

Late in June I did my first track weekend in the 986, but during the last session I had poor throttle response and the check engine light came on. Durametric showed “Misfire, Cyl. 1.” I then drove the 325 miles home.

I replaced the Sparkplug Tubes (Rauch Speigel and Porsche o-rings) and all six Sparkplug Connectors. Misfire issue resolved.

A few days later, I forgot to replace the oil cap and drove for few days with erratic idle. Replaced the cap and idle returned to normal.

The next morning billowing white smoke at startup! The car has never smoked at startup before.

The following morning, no smoke at startup and drove for a few days, but began to notice tailpipe smoke under hard acceleration (4,500-6,500rpms. I thought that oil may have been sucked into the intake manifold when the cap was missing and would clear up in a few days.

I Reached out to Flat Six and they thought it was probably a falling AOS, even though a manometer test was within the normal range.

I replaced the 6 year old AOS with a genuine Porsche model. Manometer test good!

Zero smoke at startup, but the car is still smoking under hard acceleration. The puff of smoke begins at about 4,500 rpms, but dissipates if I shift or hold the rpms steady and today, after monitoring the smoke at rpm, there was a hesitation in throttle response. I ended the drive and drove home, keeping the keeping the rpms below 3K and the hesitation stopped.

And finally, here’s the kicker, the oil consumption has gone way up! Like a quart per 100-200miles, though I’m not sure how accurate of my measuring. I have absolutely no oil leaks! Every morning I add .2L-.4L but the oil gauge won’t budge off of the bottom mark.

I do all of the work on this car, but I'm baffled and sickened by this problem. Thanks for your help.

I'm having trouble getting into SAI/Evap readiness state and the garage smells like gas after I park the car. I also get P0442 from time to time. Before I start throwing parts at it I figured I'd take the fender liner off and investigate.
But the evidence of leakage seems to confirm that the Fuel Tank Bleeder Valve is the problem.
Would you agree?

Does anyone have a link to this document? I watched the HelpMeDIY video but could not find a link to the PDF either on YouTube or his site.

My 99 has the top gears and motor removed and is now el manuel. I have only 1 B-Pillar microswitch - not the additional one in the later gear mechanisms, With the top down or up, the dash light is on, and most times the car just thinks the top is up all the time. Sometimes the windows behave correctly for the top being down, but the dashboard light is still on.

I want to use that PDF to do all the diagnostics on the switches. I'm suspicious of the main latch switches since the PO had put a few thicknesses of sticky foam onto the switch arm so that the latch pushed it farther up. (Farther up and further in!) Maybe all I need is to reflow the solder on that switch?

BTW the top worked fine before it ate a gear.

hey Guys ,
I'm sure this may have been brought up few times in the past.
trying to find out options on getting this working right once in for all.

my remote keys have never worked both of them since I bought the car 8 years ago. not complaining just a fact .. enjoyed love my baby Boxster

tried syncing the key ignition ON then off 5 sec later turn the button or turn door cylinder holding the button NADA ..

now I got one key that does light up the other don't, remote don't work on neither one of them
no problems at all getting the car started thought

any suggestions I got new microswitches/buttons to replace thought it maybe just be that
should I even do it on the one that don't light up ?
or is it the case where both of the key fobs need to light up ..? or is it just a dealer any other online vendor where I can get a working key fob

Hi All,

The context of my question is my boxster s (2000) was making a grinding noise on the track and only under specific corners that were: turning right, very sharp and uphill, so under full compression as well as heavy gas input. Otherwise the car is good and this symptom is otherwise unnoticeable.

Upon some discussion with folks the culprits of the bearing and the CV were the focus of all my conversations. The bearing seams good and an instructor called his mechanic described the symptom as said to give the axel a look and that’s what I’ve done. I have the exhaust lowered and the old axel is out which looks ok - no tears or noticeable issue. I’l also ready to install the new OEM axel. My hope is the new axel puts the issue to bed.

One thing caught my eye looking at the flange though. It looks either heat treated or some other issue has heat cycled it to the point of colorization. I’ve read some of the flanges are heat treated but I’ve not been able to get reliable pics to compare. Does anyone think the pic I’ve attached is suspicious and indicated a deeper issue perhaps with carrier bearing in the tranny itself?

Any thoughts appreciated and apologies if this is a long missive.

Hi All,
Completed a multi-month job on 2001 boxster-s automatic (IMS, RMS, cam chains/pads etc). No prior experience, so it is all 1st time. Engine was not removed and I now have the Tip bolted back on and engine mounts installed. I'm at the point of putting in the 6 bolts for flex plate to torque converter, through starter opening. Problem is the flex plate holes don't seem to line up with any holes on the torque converter. I did have the torque converter pinned in place on removal and there were no incidents where the TC could have moved. The flex plate did rotate many times for the work at hand while the tip was out. I'm kicking myself that I did not take a look at the TC-to-flex plate mating surface before bolting the tip back on, to see how the bolts should go together.
I can't remember the set-up when I removed the bolts 6 mo ago, was hoping someone could share how the flex plate attaches to the TC, to save me removing the tip again, just to look at the TC...........
Many thanks