Brake Pad change guide DIY
 

Was checking my brake pads the other day so thought I’d make a video how to guide for changing your pads yourself. It’s pretty simple to be fair. Let me know your thoughts!
https://youtu.be/fyNn_C63eMc

I’ve a 2001 986 Boxster S but this guide should be the same for the 987,996 & 997 as they all share a lot of parts.

(if you want to know how to check your pads, and discs I’ve also done a video here: https://youtu.be/PQDYOK2qNFc)

I track my car so I‘ve fitted the EBC Bluestuff pads. Street legal in the UK for most cars (check with your insurer first), bite well from cold and can last a good 15 mins or so of heavy braking on a track day without fade. I’ve had them up to 400 C on a few sessions and they’ve been ok.

EBC do a track only Orangestuff pad if you don’t use your car on the road although I’ve not tried it.

It’s a relatively simple process and quite simple.
• Remove the wear sensor
• Pull out the pin
• Push out the bolt
• Pull out the pads
• Insert new pads
• Replace the bolt, retainer, pin and sensor
• And, finally, bed in the pads

Here are the tools you’ll need:
• Screwdrivers
• Pliers
• Rubber Mallet
• And copper grease

1. First you will need to lift the car and remove the wheels. (I’ve a video on this if you need to know the lifting points https://youtu.be/La6i3TwMB8k )
2. Using pliers remove the brake wear sensor.
3. Then remove the pin.
4. Using a rubber mallet and screwdriver tap the bolt out
5. This is the retaining clip the bolt was holding in place
6. Using the screwdriver level the pads out.
7. Now is the perfect time to inspect the piston boots. Check for any cracks or gaps in these pieces of rubber because if any dirt or grit gets behind them it can cause the seals to fail and all your brake fluid to leak out.
8. Put some copper grease on the back of the new pads to help avoid any squeaks
9. Insert the new pads
10. Replace the bolt and retainer
11. Insert the pin
12. And attach the brake wear sensor
To have the pads work at their best each manufacturer will have a bedding in process for you to follow. Instructions will be found in the box his or on their website. In general though here are some guidelines:

For the first 300 miles or so try to use the brakes lightly and avoid any sudden, hard braking unless it’s unsafe not to.
You should now see a blue band on the disc where the pad material has stuck to it. You will now need to do 10 sudden stops from 60 to 10 miles an hour in an attempt to get the brakes hot. Continue driving after this to allow the brakes to cool and only stop and put the handbrake on when the discs are cool or you risk fusing the handbrake on.

Very nicely done, thank you!!

Neil, very impressive and professional quality video!
I'll be taking a look at your other 986 videos when I get some time. Thanks! :cheers:

What about pushing the Pistons back in prior to installing new pads? Safest way to do it?

I use a pair of channelocks with something to protect the paint on the top of the caliper where the jaw touches. All ya gotta do is squeeze.
Make sure the brake fluid tank is not too full, or it could overflow

Of course you can buy the special tool for $$$

I've got this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SQUHW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_ detailpage

It was a lot cheaper when I got it, looks like the price has gone up. I have an acorn nut on the end to give a greater spreading range.

Spreading the pistons back is the hardest part of the job for me. I use this tool one the old pads to spread them back as far as I can, with a bleeder hose attached to one of the brake bleed screws to relieve pressure. You can also remove the brake master cylinder. But if the pads are really worn, and your brake master is full, you may need to remove some fluid, and allowing it to come out from the bleed screw is the easiest way for me.

Also when I bleed brakes after a track day, I use this to squeeze the pads back when I bleed, in case there are any air bubbles in the part of the line inside the caliper that is after the brake bleed screw. Don't know if it is necessary though :)

I saw one for like $200-$300 once, looked like a caulk gun with some spreading bars or something. Looked complicated...

Channellocks, that's a good idea. I've used G-clamps in the past but that seems a lot easier.

My last car had Wilwood 4-pot calipers with stainless steel pots, so they had no rubber seals - didn't need them. As these have rubber seals, I wasn't sure what the best way was of retracting the pistons without damaging them. I've heard if you push them back any-old-how, you could push them on an angle and cause problems.

Thanks :)

if you use the tab on top of the pad as the place to put the pliers it will push both pistons in evenly

many thanks for the kind comments Dlirium and rick3000 - it makes doing this videos worthwhile. New videos come out every two weeks. If you Subscribe and Like on youtube it would help me out and you'll never miss one!