Strut swap question
 

For those of you who have undertaken the job of swapping out struts, do I really need to disconnect the driveshaft to get the strut in place?

I think I have to remove the cross bracing for sure.

I'm removing shorter coil overs and they came out without too much hassle. Going back to stock is more of a challenge.

Yes you do. Axle's, control arm an pretty much everything on the rear suspension. Make sure you tighten the axle bolts correctly with some locktite. My axle bolts came out and pretty much destroyed my subframe and O2 sensor. Was not a fun experience. If you do not drop everything on the strut there is not enough room for he strut to clear the fender to remove. Once you do it once and just remove everything and not try to cut corners it will come out fine.

My thought is to remove the cross brace and see if I can get the strut into the hub without removing the drive shafts. If I attempt this, do I run the risk of tearing one or both boots? Is that why removal is recommended?

I knew this project was going to be a bear, but I did not realize it was this stinking involved. It's just bolts and nuts, but wow it's a lot.

And if the answer is "absolutely remove the drive shafts from the tranny for this job to keep from doing damage to them" do I need to buy new nuts if they're nylon lined? If so, I need to get those in hand before I start taking off the drive shafts.

You have to remove the drive shafts because you need way more room to clear the strut of the fender. When you get down there and start taking it apart you will see what I am saying. I didnt buy new bolts. You will save a ton of time and headache if you just take the axle off instead of trying to do it without and having to do it in the end.

When I replaced my rear strut I left the drive shaft in the hub. I just undid the flange at the tranny. It allowed things to drop enough to get things in and out.

I should have been more specific. I left the axle on the hub also and only disconnected at the flange also.

OK, for anyone reading this in the future, swapping out struts is a pain in the arse. Invested another 2+ hours last night to remove the cross bracing and center plate under the tranny and the passenger side axle flange at the transmission. One rear side is now done. Just one.

The way you get the strut out/in is to put your foot on the top of the rotor and pry the bottom of the strut off the hub, then remove it from the top mounting position. Putting the new one in requires you to put the top part up into the holes and have someone help you get the bottom into the hub and wiggle it a bunch so it will go down into place.

This is one of those jobs I will be proud to say I did myself, but I will never do again unless I have access to a lift. I can clearly see how much easier the job would be if doing it overhead vs. on my back.

You are speaking the truth. It is really a pain. After doing it now I bet I could get it down to an hour per side.