I think the wire for the actuator is also at the immobilizer unit. mine does not have the actuator

Yep ;)
It's the blue wire with black stripe.

Also, for those following, up to 2000 models will have the same lock/unlock wires (brown/white and brown/red) AND turn signal wires (black/white and black/green) at the immobilizer.
2001 and up will have the same lock/unlock wires at the immobilizer, but not the turn signal wires.

I don't really like my crest idea :confused:
It's a bit too big and maybe a bit tacky, but it's on there now. I think I'll use one of the tiny key crests (or nothing) on my second fob and use that one.
I guess it's no bigger than the key chain crest...

It does not look bad. At least in the picture. Funny how something looks great in the pictures, don't look and feel so great in real life.

After holding it in my hand and looking at it for a while, I've decided that I like it. ;)
I would like the crest to be recessed a little more, but that's it.

I carefully traced the outline of the crest onto the fob and used the Dremel to cut out a shallow recess, but the plastic is only a few millimeters thick, so couldn't cut too deep.

Well even thought mine did not have the trunk release actuator in the trunk, it was wired for one!



http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430342262.jpg

And the actuator is available used for as little as $35 online today

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430342071.jpg

But of course if you want to install a less expensive actuator you can too. :cheers:


You will most likely need to use a relay for at least the aftermarket actuator as it draws a few amps

Nice ;)

For $35, may as well go OEM. The trunk relay in my keyless entry unit is rated at 40 amps, so no trouble there. I still haven't done anything with it yet, though.

I wished i had a rear trunk actuator. About the only thing that makes me upset on my car. Maybe i need to see if it is wired for one

Takes about 30 seconds to pull down the rear panel to check. [emoji5]

Yeah it was late last night. I had to re locate and re wire some DRL's. I will do it later today for sure.

It's funny how similar and different these door lock systems are. Mine did not have a relay in it and quickly burned up the door lock unit so I installed another door lock unit from another company with the same remote thinking it would be wired and color coded the same...

Nope.

LOL

I used a $8 actuator and a $2 relay.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430600756.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430600781.jpg

So now I have a trunk release. :cool:

I took a look at mine and I do not even have a location set on the bracket for the second cable. Guess I am just unlucky and have to do it old school with the lever.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430342071.jpg

If you get the factory actuator be sure the get the bracket as well.

I just piggy back the trunk bypass.

Nice :cool:

I may get around to hooking up the trunk actuator this week. I need a break from headlights, anyway (one more set to do later this week). :)

I ended up cutting and isolating the blue/black wire to the immobilizer just so i dont do any damage to the immobilizer unit itself

So low and behold I do have an actuator. It is a black box with the plunger connected to a solid rod that goes under the metal spoiler motor cover. That connects to the latch where it is connected to the single manual cable release. I have read someone had to take their car into the dealer and have the computer reset to get the trunk release to talk to the keyfob. So my question for you guys would be if after I replace the actuator and the actuator is still not talking to the keyfob through the immobilizer could I install a third party entry system to make the signal bypass the cars system and the actuator work? I heard the actuator actually turn on when I connected a test light but the arm was not moving at all. That made me to believe there is something wrong there. It was cheap enough to buy so why not replace it. So should a third party entry system be able to send a signal to the OEM actuator?

Yes, but most I would assume since you do have the actuator your fob is programed for it already. It just a matter of getting the actuator to work

Sounds like a bad actuator to me.

That is what i am guessing also. Waiting on the replacement to come in.

OK guys need some help now. New actuator came in and installed. It is not moving at all when I hit the trunk button. The light on the dash is illuminating when I hit the button so it is getting a signal from the key. I would much rather install a unit like you guys have if it will send the signal to the actuator for it to work instead of paying a labor hour at the dealership that would cost me way more than the system to go in.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Doors unlocked and you are holding the trunk unlock button down for more than three seconds?