DIY Coolant Tank Replacement in Under 2 Hours
 

The idea was to make the job a lot easier and cut down the 5 hours it usually takes to do the coolant tank replacement. First off, make 100% sure your tank is bad because once you start there is NO going back. Time to take the tank completely off is under 30 minutes (depending on your dremel skills) and it took me almost 1 1/2 hours to put the new tank back in. You ARE going to bust some knuckles and rub your arm raw while in the engine compartment putting the tank back in. Here you go.

Step 1. Prep the job by removing the carpet, oil dipstick, caps and plastic ring around the rim of the tank. You will also want to drain the tank as in picture 1. I did it by drilling a small hole near the bottom so it makes less of a mess during the job.

Step 2. Remove the hoses from the outside of the tank that goes in to the black bracket where the fixed oil fill tube is that goes through the coolant tank.

Step 3. As seen in picture 2, cut the tank off near the firewall. Be careful not to hit any of the wires or oil fill tube. I used a dremel with a drill bit which cut right through it and gave it some reach.

Step 4. Remove the screws holding in the tank and the two nuts where the filler tube is. Remove the tank by lifting up and clean up the coolant that spills out.

Step 5. Using the dremel again with the drill bit, cut around the main tube that goes through the firewall as seen in picture 3. remove the cut off pieces and pull out the bracket with the oil filler tube enough to remove the remainder of the tank piece still attached.

Step 6. Gently pull on the oil fill tube bracket and remove the 3 hoses with a pair of curved needle nose pliers. You also want to move the clamp holding the oil fill tube on the inside of the firewall and remove the tube from the black bracket.

Step 7. After removing the black oil fill tube and hose bracket you will have easy access to the main tube that came from the tank that is now cut down to a small piece. Remove the cut off piece from the hose and you are left with what you see in picture 4.

Step 8. Now that the tank is removed you need to swap the sensor and attach the new tank and black oil fill tube bracket back in the car. I did this by aligning the hoses as well as i could and attach the bracket with the 2 nuts on loosely (don't forget to put on new screw type clamps and remove the factory clamps). I started with the main tube from the tank and tighten the clamp. Next move to the three hose starting with the top one and work your way down. the bottom hose has no clamp so save it for last.

Step 9. Finally completely fasten the tank and bracket on inside the trunk. This will make it easier to attach the oil fill tube from the engine.

Step 10. Slowly fill the tank till it is at the max level ,as in picture 5, and then bleed the system.

You are now done. Make sure to inspect your flex oil fill tube that goes from the fixed tube attached to the engine and coolant tank. Mine was severely cracked and needed replacing too. Shown in picture 6 as requested.


pic 1

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pic 2

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pic 3

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pic 4

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pic 5

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pic 6

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I used this technique today and had the coolant tank and hose manifold out in about 15-20 minutes. I found that the 2nd Dremel step of cutting the flanges off the tank connection was not necessary, I could pull the hose manifold out enough to remove the 3 hoses from the engine side, then move that out of the way and disconnect the cut end of the tank. Thanks so much for this!!

Waiting for a new oil filler hose to arrive then I can put everything back together.

I did this job today and here are a few things I noticed that will make it a bit easier.
(Although It still took me more than 3hrs)

1. Remove the bracket holding the hard cooolant lines to the chassis, this will give you a little bit
of extra slack pulling the hoses through the firewall.
2. The breather hose (top one on the manifold) is connected to a quick release in the engine compartment. Disconnect there and connect to the manifold first.
3. Disconnect the oil filler tube in the engine bay, this gives more room, too.
4. Cut the gasket at the hole for the main coolant line. Connect this line first without the manfiold in place. Make sure the clamp is facing upwards and not outwards, otherwise it won't fit through the cutout later.
5. Connect the middle hose to the manifold.
6. Connect the oil hose to the manifold.
7. Move the gasket around the main line.
8. Push the overflow hose onto the manifold (no clamp required)
9. Connect the oil filler tube to the reservoir.

This method requires access only from the trunk and the top of the engine.
I used long reach 45degree pliers and a pair of flexible hose clamp pliers.
Also, I had help from a friend.

Hi All

So I put this job off for a while because so many posts on the internet said it was a pain of a job.

Actually it is very easy and quick if you know the tricks.
(Gathered here for you from various sources on the old interweb.)

This is the easy way, with no need to cut the old tank in pieces with a Dremel. (I had it ready)

It took me about an hour in total. (And half that time is taking the carpets out and putting them back and taking the hatch off the engine bay). But I had everything to hand.)

Before you start:
1. buy a replacement tank. (I started by buying an exspensive one , then returned it because one of the inlet pipes was slightly bigger. I then bought the cheapest I could find - about £75 - which was fine (and is still is fine 9 months later) except that I had to drill out the hole for the oil dipstick - it was moulded in but hadnt been drilled out - so very easy.
2. Buy a set of Long handled pliers - see pic below - £12 on ebay. You may also want 3 small jublilee clips if you, like me, prefer them.

3. Strip all the carpets out of the way and flip the hood up and remove the engine bay cover.
4. Syphon the fluid out of the tank with a bit of pipe.
4. Remove the oil cap, water cap and oil dipstick. (and disconnect the dipstick tube and push it down through the tray)
5. Disconnect the three visable hoses from the tank (location shown by green arrow) not from the black plastic bulkhead moulding. (object labled with Red arrow)
6. Remove the bolt(s) holding the tank in and the nuts attaching the bulkhead moulding to the bulkhead. (blue arrows)

So far, very easy.

7. Next, reach inside the engine bay and locate the fourth hose that goes straight into the back of the tank. There is another hose clip like the others right up against the bulkhead. To undo this clip you need the long handled pliers. Which pair depends on wether this clip's prongs (the bits you have to squeeze to open the clip) are on the top , bottom or to one side. Mine was on the bottom (of course it was!) and the angled pliers were just right. Just slide it back away from the tank and leave it on the tube. now gently pull the pipe off the tank.
8. Now remove the tank. You will need to pull the black bulkhead moulding towards you because it overlaps the tank's rear mounting flange. (and shares at least one retaining bolt (stud) - the nut of which you removed earlier)

You might need to wrestle with it a little but you only need to pull it forward about a centimeter or so to clear the studs ..... and the three hoses in the engine bay have enough slack for that. Once it is clear of the studs you can pull and slide the tank off /out.

That last bit and getting the 4th clip off was the only tricky bit. (And it really isnt that tricky)

9. Wrestle the new tank back in. (the reverse of step 8.)
10. reconnect the hoses. I threw the old clips away and put three new jublilee clips on. (you have to re-use the spring clip for the one in the engine bay because its a pain to get to. (just give it a squeeze and slid it back in place - this time with the prongs upwards. (and the straight pliers)
11. replace all the nuts and bolts.
12. replace caps and dipstick.
13. replace carpets.
14. replace cover.

And Voila!

F U Porsche ... there are so many ways you could have made that easier.
But hey ... modern cars ..... designed to skin knuckles.

Regards

Dom


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