986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners (http://986forum.com/forums/index.php)
-   DIY Project Guides (http://986forum.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=50)
-   -   Dual DIN 7" Touch screen radio install (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36276)

BestGear 08-29-2012 10:51 PM

Thanks for the update.

I seriously looked at a couple of the chinese units and went for a Kenwood too, after reading similar horror stories of poor integration, slowness, hanging, no RDs station names etc etc

I am sure they will get better but it seems its the nature of the breed - they are just not quite there yet.

My Kenwood looks very similar to yours - and if you have not yet looked around, they are quite hackable.

David

BestGear 08-29-2012 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by politby (Post 301656)
I have ordered the Connects2 double din kit off eBay. Is this the one you referred to as "rubbish?" They say it is for cars without the cup holder but I figured I can lose the cupholder if necessary.


I used a Connects2 kit in mine and it fits perfectly - its all down to how you install it.

As long as you dont want a nice Porsche badge on the bezel there is nothing wrong with the Connects2 Kit.

I posted a picture of the fitted unit a few months ago on this thread so have a look if interested.

I think people dont consider how much weight a double din unit is - as with several installs (with both kits) I have seen the kit has insufficient support and the head unit ends up sagging in the dash, meaning usually the bottom of the unit sits further out than the top.

David

politby 08-29-2012 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BestGear (Post 303792)
I used a Connects2 kit in mine and it fits perfectly - its all down to how you install it.

As long as you dont want a nice Porsche badge on the bezel there is nothing wrong with the Connects2 Kit.

I posted a picture of the fitted unit a few months ago on this thread so have a look if interested.

I think people dont consider how much weight a double din unit is - as with several installs (with both kits) I have seen the kit has insufficient support and the head unit ends up sagging in the dash, meaning usually the bottom of the unit sits further out than the top.

David

Thanks for that. I have just installed the amp, routed the cables into the cabin and swapped the dash speakers. Will do the head unit over the weekend.

I have the Pio SGH-DA100 AppRadio which is quite light as it has no optical drive so I am not too worried about sagging but I will find some way to support it other than just the cage.

BestGear 08-30-2012 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by politby (Post 303793)
I have the Pio SGH-DA100 AppRadio which is quite light as it has no optical drive so I am not too worried about sagging but I will find some way to support it other than just the cage.


The secret, (if there is one!) is to put two screws through each side (holes already in cage) and into the plastic dash part just the same as the more expensive kit.

I did this - and added a couple of washers between frame and cage to prevent distorting the plastic frame.

This makes it very rigid and will never sag nor rattle.

You just need to mount everything up on the bench to get the distances right, then fix it in place within the plastic frame.

David

politby 08-30-2012 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BestGear (Post 303796)
The secret, (if there is one!) is to put two screws through each side (holes already in cage) and into the plastic dash part just the same as the more expensive kit.

I did this - and added a couple of washers between frame and cage to prevent distorting the plastic frame.

This makes it very rigid and will never sag nor rattle.

You just need to mount everything up on the bench to get the distances right, then fix it in place within the plastic frame.

David

So did you use the cage that came with the Connects2 kit, or the one that came with the head unit?

I was thinking the Pioneer cage will fit the unit 100% but OTOH the Connects2 cage may be better adapted to the car.

My car has the one piece "horseshoe" vent frame and I am not sure what is the best way to remove it but I suspect is is just using clips.

BestGear 08-30-2012 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by politby (Post 303797)
So did you use the cage that came with the Connects2 kit, or the one that came with the head unit?
.

Yes, I used the connects2 cage as the bezel has clips that need to fit to the cage and on my Kenwood it would not fit properly as the cut outs were not there.

You just need to juggle (on the bench) the side mounting clips so that you get the distance correct - ie the distance from front of head unit to flush with bezel.

Its easy when you see it on the bench, rather than trying to describe it.

David

politby 08-30-2012 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BestGear (Post 303799)
Yes, I used the connects2 cage as the bezel has clips that need to fit to the cage and on my Kenwood it would not fit properly as the cut outs were not there.

You just need to juggle (on the bench) the side mounting clips so that you get the distance correct - ie the distance from front of head unit to flush with bezel.

Its easy when you see it on the bench, rather than trying to describe it.

David

Got it. Final question - where did you take switched power for the head unit, and how did you connect the parking brake/reverse leads?

jb92563 08-30-2012 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crono0001 (Post 303730)
AFTER TWO WEEKS OF WAITING!!!!

Got everything installed today. All I can say is... wow. The difference between this and the chinese unit... It's not even comparable (well... considering how this one was 3x the chinese one).

Where to begin where to begin. First, let's re-assess why I returned the chinese brand GPS:
1. The GPS was sketchy. It would take forever to load and wasn't very logical. It also lagged. You couldn't see the streets half the damn time, and if you ever exited the GPS, you couldn't get back into it.
2. The Bluetooth was murky. You couldn't hear me half the time. Phonebooks and contacts were not synced. It was basically a telephone on your car, where you'd have to memorize the number, couldn't see who was calling, and they couldn't hear you anyways.
3. The menu was slow, laggy, and un-intuitive. It also wasn't very pretty.
4. The Bluetooth music sync wasn't also very compatible with my iphone. I could play, pause, and go next track or previous track... That was about it. Perhaps the most glaring problem was the fact that the music would cut in and out, depending on where you iPhone was. If it was in your pocket, the music would lag every few seconds!
5. The included ipod cable, although allowed me to play music, didn't charge my phone.


Now let's look at the Kenwood.
1. The GPS is Garmin. It is fast, reliable, easy to use, and even has updated traffic and street view.
2. The Bluetooth is CRYSTAL CLEAR, EVEN WITH THE TOP DOWN ON THE HIGHWAY! Phonebook is synced. I can go through my contacts, recent calls, and even tells me who is calling when I'm getting a call.
3. The menu is lightning fast, beautiful, and easy to navigate. There's no lag, and no frustration trying to go through the menus.
4. The bluetooth music is complete. I can browse my playlists, songs, artists, etc. It shows my album art, and there is absolutely no lag between songs or during songs. Everything is crystal clear and perfect.
5. The ipod cable (another $30) was able to charge my iphone. Something I was very happy about.

But that's not the best part!
I can use my iphone apps through the Kenwood screen. I can even play youtube videos from my phone on the screen. How amazing is that?

Granted, you're paying 3 times as much, but it is sooooooo worth it. This is coming from someone who has tried both. I would say go for the Kenwood hands down. It's only another $400, and it is worth every penny and some.

I'm glad you got the unit and features you wanted in the Kenwood.
Install looks great.

I did not have the problems you experienced with your Chinese unit and honestly I'm not even using most of the features of even my unit.
Its working great for what I need it to do, GPS Navigation, Play music from DVD and USB, and the backup video.

I think if you want to use most of the functionality then the Kenwood is the right one to install.

My next upgrade will be to something more resembling an Ipad with WIFI etc as DVD's and CD are virtually obsolete now.

Crono0001 08-30-2012 12:21 PM

Yea, I'm quite sure I bought a faulty unit. Buyer beware.

But I'm quite happy with mine now.

BestGear 08-31-2012 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by politby (Post 303802)
Got it. Final question - where did you take switched power for the head unit, and how did you connect the parking brake/reverse leads?

Hi

Switched power is already on the ISO block so nothing to do.

The reverse was from the rear lights as I was already running a cable for the rear camera so was zero hassle. There is reverse signal in the ECU under the passenger seat if you dont want to run a cable to the rear boot.

Handbrake - did not connect it - just earth the wire and dont view movies when driving....

David

politby 08-31-2012 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BestGear (Post 304046)
Hi

Switched power is already on the ISO block so nothing to do.

There is so much that is non standard on this car that I want to be extra careful. According to the pinout of the CDR23 ISO harness, pin 4 is constant +12V while pin 5 is labelled "Antenna 12V+" which could be either a switched 12V input or a remote/power antenna output.

Better go probe those leads with the trusty Fluke. :)

My Pioneer has an orange/white lighting feed as well. Usually I would just connect it to switched power, but does anyone know a good place to connect to the instrument lighting power source?

jb92563 08-31-2012 08:22 AM

This might help from Pelican and 101projects.com

Note: Pin 6 on yellow portion of C-connector is the switched + power source.
I took mine from Pin 7 on the Black connector.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...82/PINOUT2.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f...40/PINOUT1.JPG

politby 09-01-2012 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jb92563 (Post 304079)
This might help from Pelican and 101projects.com

Note: Pin 6 on yellow portion of C-connector is the switched + power source.

Nope, my car has an entirely different configuration of the yellow connector - no switched power there.


I found this diagram on renntech.org - this is mostly consistent with what I found when measuring the voltages at the "A" (black) ISO connector in my car. According to this, pin 6 in the yellow connector is "Radio Code In". In the ACC ignition position, this wire is at just under 12 V, indicating I guess that the radio should ask for the code when plugged in again.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1346495515.jpg

My car has the following pinout on the black ISO block:
  1. Gray/pink - Speedometer/speed dependent volume
  2. Blue/black - Reverse signal
  3. not used
  4. Red/black - Constant +12V
  5. White - Power to antenna
  6. not used
  7. not used
  8. Black - ground

Pin 7, which should be switched power, has no connection so I guess I have to get the switched power from the A/C panel as someone else suggested.

Pin 6, illumination, is not present either so I guess I'll just leave that one.

tony_fury 09-01-2012 06:00 AM

Quote:

According to this, pin 6 in the yellow connector is "Radio Code In". In the ACC ignition position, this wire is at just under 12 V, indicating I guess that the radio should ask for the code when plugged in again.
This is more than likely the switched power lead you are looking.

I don't believe it asks for a code, rather than a 12V trigger to the radio to present code on the display.
The code is internal to the radio set by Becker matching the model and serial number to the radio code.

politby 09-02-2012 03:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony_fury (Post 304222)
This is more than likely the switched power lead you are looking.

I don't believe it asks for a code, rather than a 12V trigger to the radio to present code on the display.
The code is internal to the radio set by Becker matching the model and serial number to the radio code.

Could be, but oddly enough it reads 11.6V, not actual battery voltage (12.4V on the constant voltage lead). Probably not safe to use as switched power for a head unit.

tony_fury 09-02-2012 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by politby (Post 304324)
Could be, but oddly enough it reads 11.6V, not actual battery voltage (12.4V on the constant voltage lead). Probably not safe to use as switched power for a head unit.

Then your best bet is to obtain it off one of the AC/heating controls switched 12V leads.

Gforrest2 09-02-2012 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony_fury (Post 304350)
Then your best bet is to obtain it off one of the AC/heating controls switched 12V leads.


+1 That's where I got my switched power.

politby 09-02-2012 09:53 AM

I now consider that question resolved. :)

I am starting to have second thoughts about the double DIN thing because it requires relocating the a/c controls, causing the loss of the lower storage tray. Because I have the Boxster Red interior I don't want to just insert a black replacement where the CD storage is now, that won't look good. And the cost of a red leather tray is astronomical.

I don't really need a large display but it does update the car's look by 10 years. And I cannot find a single DIN unit that has built in BT streaming, iPhone support, USB playback and does not look like a Christmas tree. :)

politby 09-03-2012 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gforrest2 (Post 304367)
+1 That's where I got my switched power.

I took out the a/c unit today and there are a LOT of wires on those two connector blocks. Which one is the switched 12V supply? Green/black?

Probing them all with the ignition on and off will take ages... :)

Did you put a tap on the wire or did you cut and splice?

Gforrest2 09-03-2012 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by politby (Post 304498)
I took out the a/c unit today and there are a LOT of wires on those two connector blocks. Which one is the switched 12V supply? Green/black?

Probing them all with the ignition on and off will take ages... :)

Did you put a tap on the wire or did you cut and splice?


I can't remember which wire off hand. I found it someplace, just trying to remember where. I'll search around today. As for the splice. I used one of those clamps where you insert the splice wire in the clamp and close it on the wire you want to spice to. Probably should have just spliced and soldered it but I got lazy.

Glen

politby 09-04-2012 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gforrest2 (Post 304504)
I can't remember which wire off hand. I found it someplace, just trying to remember where. I'll search around today. As for the splice. I used one of those clamps where you insert the splice wire in the clamp and close it on the wire you want to spice to. Probably should have just spliced and soldered it but I got lazy.

Glen

Thanks, great if you can find it.

I have measured the connectors and it seems pins 10 and 11 on the red plug are ignition switched 12V. They go to 12V when ignition is switched on but go back to zero when the key is turned back to the ACC position, which is not really what I want.

I prefer not to have to have ignition on to be able to run the radio. There should be a possibility to just use the ACC position, no?

I seem to remember the stock radio would remain powered until the doors were locked.

If only the pinouts of the a/c display were available somewhere...

Gforrest2 09-04-2012 06:51 PM

Spent a lot of time searching this weekend for the thread that had this info and couldn't find it. Started searching again today and decided just to take out my AC controls and have a look. Took all of 5 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't drop a screw between the seat.

Anyway, not sure what pin it was but on my car, it was the blue and black wire. Couldn't tell if it was black with a blue stripe or vice versa. And it turns out I didn't use the clamp. I spliced and soldered this wire in.

But you're right. Before, I could play my stereo without the ignition on. Now, the ignition needs to be turned on for the radio to work.

politby 09-05-2012 04:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gforrest2 (Post 304739)
Spent a lot of time searching this weekend for the thread that had this info and couldn't find it. Started searching again today and decided just to take out my AC controls and have a look. Took all of 5 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't drop a screw between the seat.

Anyway, not sure what pin it was but on my car, it was the blue and black wire. Couldn't tell if it was black with a blue stripe or vice versa. And it turns out I didn't use the clamp. I spliced and soldered this wire in.

But you're right. Before, I could play my stereo without the ignition on. Now, the ignition needs to be turned on for the radio to work.

Thanks. I think I will get the switched power off the fuse block after all.

I started dismantling the dash today, the objective is to get full access to the radio cavity and get the radio surround on the bench for easier adjustment of the new cage.

But I hit a brick wall. I do not know how to remove the plastic frame with the cupholder and the two vents. I got the "horseshoe" off (boy were those colored switch connectors a B&#%£ to get off), loosened the four Torx screws plus the two holding the metal radio support bracket, but there is something holding the vent/cupholder section still that I don't know how to deal with.

I thought it would be just a couple of clips, but I have pulled pretty hard and I feel if I pull any harder it will break into pieces.

http://litby.org/photos/dash.jpg

Or do I need to remove the cupholders and vents separately? Appreciate some quick help.

tony_fury 09-05-2012 05:13 AM

2 Attachment(s)
You model dash is different from mine.
The air vents came out with my horseshoe. Also my cup holders were different from yours as well.
You have as much access as you can possibly get, you should be able to run your power wire to the fuse box with that access.
Attachment 16514Attachment 16515

politby 09-05-2012 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tony_fury (Post 304763)
You model dash is different from mine.
The air vents came out with my horseshoe. Also my cup holders were different from yours as well.
You have as much access as you can possibly get, you should be able to run your power wire to the fuse box with that access.

They changed the design from MY03, I believe.

The reason I want to remove the entire frame is that I want to do the cutting for the new radio cage out of the car, and also removing the factory radio support bracket (which in my car is U shaped and seems to be joined to the vent assembly with clips) will be easier.

tony_fury 09-05-2012 06:07 AM

Yes it is different on your 03.
Don't know if this helps or not.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...Item_Number=12
I found a YouTube video of a installer on a 2003 996.
fast frog to 2:00 min mark of the video of the dash, they do not remove the horseshoe at all to install the double din..
KENWOOD DNX9960 INSTALL IN 2003 PORSCHE 996 BY AUDIO 200 - YouTube
Hope it helps..

politby 09-05-2012 06:23 AM

That looks exactly like mine. Do you have a link to the whole image?

If you look at the radio support bracket in my photo, you see that it has a black metal profile at about mid height, one each side, presumably there to support the now-relocated climate control. They will effectively block the insertion of a double DIN radio, so they must go. They will be impossible to remove unless the entire bracket is removed.

Possibly I could get it out if I can pull out the cupholder; the picture you posted a part of may tell me how.

Edit: now that I look closer at your photo I see your car has those black metal supports too. You must have removed them, otherwise you could not have fitted your unit.

tony_fury 09-05-2012 07:00 AM

I got that image from Pelican parts replacement cup holder diagram.
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 996-552-183-00-01C-OEM

Might try a parts catalog for a 996..

politby 09-05-2012 07:27 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Looks like the cupholder may just slide out if those locking tabs are pushed down:

Attachment 16516

Someone must have done this on a 2003-up. Anyone?

SoK 09-05-2012 08:21 AM

looks like the locking tabs you release when inserting the radio removal keys, any chance there's an opening there for them?

politby 09-05-2012 08:32 AM

I think there's even room to insert a finger or at least a screwdriver. It's inpossible to see in there, I need to try a flashlight.

Pretty sure the cupholder must come out in order to remove the radio bracket; they are interlocked.

Pretty crummy design, this - and the plastic parts seem so fragile.

politby 09-09-2012 05:09 AM

Okay, the JVC KW-AV60BT is finally in place:

http://litby.org/photos/jvc_AV60.JPG

The Connects2 kit was not 100% useful, I was able to use the wiring adapter harness and the bezel but not the cage as the fit was not good and it came with no instructions.

Because the bezel is designed for the Connects2 cage, I had to improvise a bit to make it fit the JVC cage. It's not perfect but good enough.

The Porsche logo is a brake caliper decal. A little on the large side but it matches the silver details in the cabin perfectly.

The cubby above the climate cotntrol will be turned into an iPhone dock. Still trying to figure out how to get the JVC to work properly with the iPhone, it refuses to display ani kind of image. I have a parking brake bypass on order; hopefully that will sort it.

tony_fury 09-09-2012 07:46 AM

politby, good job.
Looks nice..:cool:

Crono0001 09-10-2012 01:48 PM

Looks beautiful. I love the red leather interior.

I bought the Porsche Installation Kit linked earlier in this thread. Mine fit so snug, people think it's factory. The PORSCHE symbol on my bezel is just a cheap sticker though. Fingernails can peel it off.

I have some extra bezels if anyone wants them.

politby 09-10-2012 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crono0001 (Post 305549)
Looks beautiful. I love the red leather interior.

I have some extra bezels if anyone wants them.

Yes I love the color too. Really happy I found one that wasn't silver/black; seems that's what 95% of the Boxsters come in.

Only blemish is a few scratches on the center console. Wonder if it is real aluminum or just coated plastic?

What's good about the Connects2 kit is that is completely flush with the dash AND the JVC. But I need to figure out a way to make it sit more securely.

politby 09-15-2012 02:19 PM

I was planning to replace the Bose door speakers as well, but now that I have listened to them driven by the new amp, I am not so sure. Those drivers are only 4" but they put out an impressive amount of tight bass now that they are getting more than the 15 or so watts the factory amp put out.

I have a pair of Kicker 6.5" subs which I had intended to install in custom baffles in the doors. The Bose speakers are probably not designed to handle the power I am feeding them so they are likely to break at some point. Those of you who replaced the door speakers - what's your experience?

SoK 09-17-2012 09:36 AM

Is it safe to say you could have installed that particular JVC doube din unit without the connects2 kit? Would the bezel that comes with it from JVC have worked?

Any modifications needed to the JVC cage to work with the dash?

Quote:

Originally Posted by politby (Post 305343)
Okay, the JVC KW-AV60BT is finally in place:

The Connects2 kit was not 100% useful, I was able to use the wiring adapter harness and the bezel but not the cage as the fit was not good and it came with no instructions.

Because the bezel is designed for the Connects2 cage, I had to improvise a bit to make it fit the JVC cage. It's not perfect but good enough.

The Porsche logo is a brake caliper decal. A little on the large side but it matches the silver details in the cabin perfectly.

The cubby above the climate cotntrol will be turned into an iPhone dock. Still trying to figure out how to get the JVC to work properly with the iPhone, it refuses to display ani kind of image. I have a parking brake bypass on order; hopefully that will sort it.


politby 09-17-2012 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoK (Post 306389)
Is it safe to say you could have installed that particular JVC doube din unit without the connects2 kit? Would the bezel that comes with it from JVC have worked?

Any modifications needed to the JVC cage to work with the dash?

The JVC bezel is not tall enough - it would leave a gap between itself and the cupholder, so the Connects2 bezel was definitely needed. As was the wiring harness to connect the head unit and replacement amp to the factory wiring.

The hole in the dash is taller than a standard double DIN so an asymmetrical bezel is a must.

The JVC cage fit as it was, I just needed to fix it to the Porsche plastic frame using a couple of screws..

SoK 09-17-2012 12:33 PM

cool, thanks for the info! I'm sure someone on here could use that connects2 cage, might want to list it in the for sale section.

Ckrikos 12-06-2012 08:57 AM

I am going to begin this project soon. I ordered the Eurospeed kit and a pioneer 940bt. My only concern is hooking up the rear view camera. I dont even need it, I just bought to add a gadjet to the head unit. Did anyone with this head unit get the traffic receiver? Is it worth the extra money?

I bought the system for the use of navigation and to play music of the micro sd card. I bought a 32gig card and will fill it up with the 5000 mp3's on my computer.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:35 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website