DIY: How to Change your Alternator
 

Pretty straight forward project. No need to remove top engine cover or seats. All access is through compartment behind the seats.
First Test your battery/alternator with car off and then car running. You should see a drop in voltage when you start your car. Mine was 12.x then dropped to 11.xx. Take your alternator in and have it tested. Also have them test the new Alt before you take it home.

Difficulty: 4.5 out of 10 *(only 2 scews and 3 wires)
Cost: $204 +tax from Oreily's auto parts with lifetime warranty.
Time: 45 minutes to an hour for removal, 30 minutes to install

Procedure: 10 steps
.5) Disconnect Battery before doing this.(almost forgot that one) :cool:
1.) Put both seats in forward and Remove 4 plastic screws at the top of the carpet behind the seats. take off carpet
2.) Remove access panel(8 or 10 scews) I believe 10mm socket, use extension for the 2 behind the arm rest.
3.) Use 24mm socket(short) and a 1/2 ratchet to loosen tension and remove your serpentine belt(change it if you need to now)http://www.987forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21433
4.) Take off both screws holding the alternator in. The one with a roller will come off after you use a pry bar to move the alt up.
5.) Don't take it all the way out cause you have 3 "short" wires attached in the back of it. The two wires come off once you remove the bolt, the other comes off by pressing the sides of the plastic harness.
6.) Remove your old alternator. Should slide out with a little maneuvering.
7.) I took the bolt off at the bottom left, right next to the Alt to make more room for it to be re-installed. It really helped.
8.) Connect wires back up and side it back in(really easy with bolt on car removed).
9.) Replace bolt on car before the bolts on the alternator.
10.) Put belt back on and release tension. Attach battery and test everything out before putting access lid and carpet back on.

Thats it, you just saved yourself a small fortune. :cheers:

Projects completed:
1.) Serpentine belt...........$25 Gatorback w/ac
2.) Sparkplugs..................$42 Ngk-Ix-Iridium
3.) Radio replaced............$225 JVC HD50 (BB install)
4.) Tires............................$700 Sumitomo III Local shop
5.) Oil Change/air filter.....$94 catro syntec 10W40,napa gold,K&N air
6.) Speakers....................$143 Infinity Kappa F=4", R=6x4 plate
7.) Throttle body clean.....$5 Throttle body cleaner
8.) De-snorkel..................$.10 A few paper towels
9.) Alternator...................$221 Various Sockets
10.)Fuel filter...................$30 10mm socket and flat head screwdriver
Projects to do:
fuel filter
Another Oil change :D

New member here. Thanks for this info, came in very handy this week. Not to bad of an removal/install at all. My normal mechanic wanted $840.00.

My normal mechanic wanted $840.00

And yet we still send our children to law school!

Have a friend that's quite well to do...he owns a plumbing company.

Sure is nice to be able to work on these cars without too many difficulties and leave the hard stuff to guys like Jake.

Yep, how do those baztards sleep at night? I know everybody needs to make some money, but that is borderline criminal. :eek:

Re: Transfer Cases
 

automotion is a good place to get http://www.99parts.com , to get the best price I would try ebay

Yes, no need to remove the top engine cover or seat.

Took me 1.5 hrs + $400 for rebuilt Bosch unit

Dealer wanted $1,600 P&L!

Thanks!
:cheers:

Good to know for future repairs. Thanks

Bump for a good DIY.

After spending about 10 minutes banging on the bushing per other descriptions, I figured there had to be a better way. I looked at the schematic and sure enough, this way made perfect sense. Tried it and the alternator was out in 15 minutes between conference calls. Thanks!!

Has anyone else had issues moving the alternator once the bolts have been removed?

Once I remove the lower left bolt, and loosen the one with the pulley, I'm only getting a little play when I try to pry the alternator up -- it's rotating (maybe) a 1/4 inch clockwise on the pulley side. If i leave the lower left bolt in, and "loosen" the pulley side, I can't get it to rotate at all.

Any suggestions?

The back side of the pulley side is a slip-fit threaded insert that clamps down on the mount when tightened. Loosen the pulley bolt 1/8-1/4 inch, then give it a few good thwacks with a hammer. Use a metal hammer, not a dead-blow or soft mallet. It needs the impulse from a metal hammer to move. You want hard enough of a tap to move the insert back, but not so hard of a tap to dent/mushroom the bolt. It'll open up the gap and free the alternator.

I had to perform an additional step, may i add(not a 100% sure if its necessary or not):

2.5) Unscrew engine lead cable in the engine bay by removing the engine cover and prying open a little plastic cover using a flat head screwdriver to expose it.

Here is an image I found on the Pelican site: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/82-ELEC-Alternator/images_large/Pic2.jpg

Good write up for reference. Thanks.
Amit

I did the same when replacing the voltage regulator.

I think my big question is how I can tell if I've moved the insert back enough -- I've used a punch directly on the insert and, like I mentioned, I do get some clockwise rotation around where the pulley bolt sits in the mount. This is leading me to believe that I should have enough freedom of movement on that insert.

However, when I try to lift up on that side, I can't get the alternator to rotate counter-clockwise (around the other bolt as a pivot). Obviously, I'm missing something with the pulley bolt/mount. Do I need to completely remove the pulley bolt from the insert to have the best chance at freeing the alternator from the mount? Or should I be able to lift the bolt out of the mount while it is still engaged (but loose) in the insert?

(For something that's supposed to be relatively easy, I'm having a hell of a time with it... which is why I think I must be missing something.)

<combining posts>

I get 1/16" to 1/8" gap after a couple good thwacks on the head of the bolt. I then pull the pulley/bolt completely out to get it out of the way.

I'm beaten. :-(

Nothing seems to be moving that insert: I've tried a punch on the bolt, tried a punch directly on the bushing, and no movement whatsoever. Spent an hour today hammering, and I've come to the realization that it's beyond the scope of my PB Blaster and hammer/punch.

Going to see if I can get a mechanic to remove the old alternator so I can install the new one myself.

Are using a metal hammer with the punch? I made the mistake of using a rubber mallet at first.

2004S
Hopefully these pic's will shed some light on what your dealing with. I don't have a photo of the alternator and its bushing your trying to free.
I remember even when I had the engine in front of me on a stand, the alternator was a pain to remove, it did come free.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1413907806.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1413907840.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1413907876.jpg

Just removed my alternator!

Couldn't get the rear busing to move at first, even with a chap from a big hammer but sprayed WD-40 on the bushing and left it overnight. When I came back to it, half a dozen taps with a regular hammer (with a drift, on the bolt head, with a regular hammer) moved it 1-2mm and I got it out through the firewall quite easily after that.

Just wondered if anyone has any insight regarding the pools of engine oil that I then found sitting on the block directly behind where the alternator is fitted as per this image!?

The result of a previous overfill or something more sinister??

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1431347486.jpg

The oil is most likely from a leaking oil fill tube, located directly above it.