Dedicated Rotors for Track Use?
 

I just picked up a set of PFC 08s from Apex for next year and am wondering if there would be any benefit to having a dedicated set of rotors for track driving to preclude the need to re-bed brakes on the back and forth pad changes from street/race pads? I thought about matching the pads sets to individual rotors.

Is this overkill and unnecessary?

I suppose you can swap out the rotors with your track pads, but it seems unnecessary. Once you do a lap or two, you have effectively bedded the pads anyway

In any case, I got a tip from a bunch of track rats at my last event.

Spray your rotors with water and let them surface rust. Once you hit the brakes a little, the rust come off with the pad deposits, giving you clean rotors

YMMV

definitely overkill but if you're looking for excuses to stay in the garage that's as good of one as any. I ran PFC 08s w/ stock rotors on my 997S (all 4 corners) and they were great. Was going to replace rotors w/ only slotted (not drilled) rotors next time around but ended up selling car instead.

PFCs are wonderful on the track and highly recommend. But they do get chatty if temps drop below ~ 50-55F on street. Not horrible but only a hair below STL (Spousal Tolerance Levels).

Good luck :)

If you're gonna do that, do yourself a favor and buy caliper studs from tarrett/rennline. With that many caliper removals, you run a pretty good risk of stripping the holes in the uprights.

I run pfc 08s full time and they are just fine.

Overkill. Swap pads if you must but I run race pads all the time. Yes they squeal when cold, don't care.

Dedicated Rotors for Track Use?
 

I have drawn up some brake studs and they are on the machining list. I specced them out of 416 stainless steel.

Is the street wear insignificant enough that you don’t mind premature wearing out of the track pad? They cost quite a bit more than the street pad. Or do you like the increased performance on the street as well?

honestly, the pfc 08 last so damn long as is (I'm on i think my 12th day and they still have like 4mm of pad and you can run them to the backing plate), I'm not concerned about street driving. They are actually pretty decent street pads, but when cold the pedal is wooden and they don't have good bite. Mine don't make any noise for some reason.

This is on sebro slotted rotors btw.

and think about wear and tear - every time the wheel comes off, every time the calipers come off, every time the rotors come off - that little locator screw on the rotors that's always seizing up, accidentally dropping the calipers and straining the brake lines, breaking that little cotter pin that holds the brake pads in place. dealing with a bit of squealing is the lesser of two evils in my book.

I agree. I have street and track pad set, which I switch, but I would not switch rotors. In the end a set of rotors doesn't last that long running hard high temp range brake pads. So as part of my winter prep work I replace rotors.

Those are very good points. I really hate those rotor locator screws.

I've replaced mine with Flat head socket Allen machine screws. Installed with a touch of never seize.

The locator screws are not at all necessary... they only help align rotor/hat to hub. Your wheel and wheel bolts do the heavy lifting for that purpose.

If using track-studs instead of bolts you can easily ditch locator screws as hat/rotor will line right up when you slide wheel on the studs (if they'd even move at all during removal). But if you've got 'em, use 'em and since they have no dire mechanical function, coat the he!! out of the threads and backside of head w/ anti-seize and you'll be fine... Even driving on heavily salted winter roads (ask how I know...). Torque spec on the locator screws is super low too as I recall.

Otherwise, not sure SS, even 416, would be my first pick for caliper/carrier studs considering application / alternatives.

Again, I'd just run PFCs on street or if you only do 2-3 DEs a year then go ahead and swap when ready to use.

Good luck :)

Tarett studs are out of 17-4 though 416 machines better and I believe takes treating a bit better.

Street wear with a race pad is approaching zero. Race pads also provide the best possible braking performance when they are good and hot, so when cold on the street you give up some of the performance and feel. They still have no problem going into ABS under hard braking when cold so they stop the car just fine.

Over 12 years and 150+ track days I typically get 6000 mi and 20 track days on a set of front pads. Probably 18k miles and 60 track days on a good set of front rotors. I see no benefit or cost savings at all by swapping out pads or rotors between uses other than eliminating brake squeal when cold.

Track tires are another matter. :cool:

Yes and yes.

You're over thinking it.

There are some very good street/track pads that work well in both situations (I have used EBC Red and Yellow) and there are several race pads that you can drive comfortably on the street (I have used Pagid Orange). And as others have mentioned above, there are several other pads to choose from.

I see changing pads (and/or rotors) before a track event as a barrier. The more work that you need to do in order to go to the track only makes it harder to get there. The harder it is to go to the track, the less you might be inclined to go. Instead, try to make it as easy as possible to go to the track and then you might be inclined to go more often (or at least it will be a lot less work!).