2000 Boxster Lower/Stiffer

[AZ986S]

I installed the Eibach sport sway bars front and rear. Rear has 3 holes for adjustability, I put it on the middle hole. Rest of suspension is stock. Wheels are 17 in staggered Boxster twists with Hankook Ventus RS-3s. I was able to get 1.8 neg camber on rear wheels. Fronts I slotted and got -2.0 degrees camber. I didn't want to do the camber plates that lifts the front some more, and I didn't want to spend $$$ with adjustable LCAs, or $2.5K on PSS9 coilovers. Iconsidered lowering springs, but concluded that those springs are not meant to work with the stock strut. I drive this car to work occasionally, so I didn't want to lower it.

I have 2 DEs and 1 AutoX on this setup, and I can tell you that sway bars made a HUGE improvement. Much less body roll, more grip, quicker response. The front camber also made a significant improvement, especially at the AutoX and more uniform tire wear.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by AZ986S

Fronts I slotted and got -2.0 degrees camber.

How much did you have to slot to get to -2 with stock ride height? In my opinion -2.0 is the sweet spot for street tires like the R-S3, it doesn't wear the edges too much (inner or outer) and doesn't roll over on the edge or slide as much as stock camber under hard cornering, and doesn't overheat as much due to less sliding from oversteer. I run -2 in the front using GT3 LCA, slotting would be much more inexpensive way to do the same thing (essentially free...)

If you took any pics during the process you should make a DIY it would be good info to have.

Glad for the info on the Eibach bars as well. I ran just the rear bar for a while, sounds like I probably should have gotten the full set.

[AZ986S]

Originally Posted by steved0x

How much did you have to slot to get to -2 with stock ride height? In my opinion -2.0 is the sweet spot for street tires like the R-S3, it doesn't wear the edges too much (inner or outer) and doesn't roll over on the edge or slide as much as stock camber under hard cornering, and doesn't overheat as much due to less sliding from oversteer. I run -2 in the front using GT3 LCA, slotting would be much more inexpensive way to do the same thing (essentially free...)

If you took any pics during the process you should make a DIY it would be good info to have.

Glad for the info on the Eibach bars as well. I ran just the rear bar for a while, sounds like I probably should have gotten the full set.

I slotted 0.25 inch for both left and right side. You can't go much deeper as the stock camber plate will start to hit the inside of the shock tower sheet metal. I bet you could get another 0.060 in, so maybe another 0.25 deg of neg camber. I used calipers, a tape measure, straight edge, pencil and a dremel with a HSS metal grinding bit. Probably a 90 min job for both sides. The hardest job is to re-insert the 3 studs back into their slots from below since they need to be out of the slots for grinding... I had a shopvac tip close to the grinding bit to vacuum up the fine metal powder. It looks pretty good and would be hard to notice even if you are looking at it. Can't beat free

On track days, I just loosen the 3 nuts, pry over the strut to the marked position for -2.0 degrees camber, then torque down the 3 nuts again. I understand that adding more neg camber will add some toe out, but my initial alignment was set with 0.10 deg toe in, so I bet I was neutral toe in the front at -2.0 neg camber, right where you would want it.

No pics sorry If I ever redo it again I will