Hey Blink,
Welcome to the O2 sensor club....anyway, I ended up buying four (4) new sensors from Auto Medic Supply 1-866-441-7039 (toll free) ---sorry, I don't have the link that Randall provided me with. For our
'99 model, we have the same sensor for all four. (Part number: 250-24423; cost: $113.90 each, plus $24.95 for the tools---shipping was included).
I only had the time to change the two(2) post-cat O2 sensors. I noticed that the pre-cat sensors appear to be in a more precarious position....probably more of a PITA to replace. I was suppose to replace all four, but one of the sensors I bought had a defective clip. I had to wait for the replacement. BTW, I dealt with Paul from Auto Medic and he replaced my sensor right away. Unfortunately, now I have to find the time to get the pre-cat sensors installed. But so far, CEL has remained off after I reset it - post intall and post oil change (re: w/c I did the same day after I realized that I wouldn't be able to complete the sensor install). So, when I get some time, I'll change those too! Should be a blast!! :dance:
Anyway, definitely a DIY job...thank goodness.
Here's a few blurry pics below.
1) Make sure that when you are installing each of the sensors, that you keep each of the clips in an open position, as shown. Otherwise, you may risk breaking the locking mechanism on either side of it if you mistakenly lock them.
2) Also notice that the OEM connectors on the right-hand side show two (2) copper connectors (I believe), which IMO you may want to take note of when reinstalling the new sensors. The ones that I purchased did NOT have this, so instead I just kept in mind which wires corresponded to the correct orientation of the original installation.
3) PB Blaster has not let me down yet in my DIY projects so far. Use it sparingly.
...sorry, I had a few more pics showing the differences in the sensors themselves, but they wouldn't download.
A few other hints that I found useful during the removal and installation (1999 model):
1) What I found helpful was to spray (re: just a few squirts where the sensor inserts into the bung hole) a bit of PB Blaster on the exhaust manifold side and wait a couple minutes before trying to loosen the sensor.
2) While you are waiting for the PB Blaster to kick in on the exhaust end, take a flat head screwdriver to the rectangular connector end and gently break off the little black plastic locking mechanism on either side of the rectangular electrical connector of the old sensor and open the latch.
3) There are actually a few ways that the removal of an old sensor can be done, but I found the following to be the quickest method for post-cat sensor removal: once you have loosened the sensor (re: I purchased the sensor tool that fits onto the end of a ratchet; since it is made specifically for O2 sensors, this was not too difficult at all) unscrew it by hand on the exhaust end first.
4) Then, if you take out the lining of the rear trunk, it will reveal two little circular rubber hubs (on both the right and left side) that hold the electrical connection for the post-cat sensors. I found that it is also helpful in some cases when the rectangular connection is very tight (re: passenger's side in my case); after unscrewing the sensor from the exhaust end, lift up the rubber connection that holds the sensor...I lifted it enough through the hole in the trunk to reveal the connection. Then I took a very small flat head screwdriver and carefully loosened the rectangular connector from the rubber hub...sensor just fell to the floor
(BTW, this is optional --you don't have to remove the lining in the trunk. You can actually try to remove the sensor from beneath the car. )
5) For the installation, it helps to screw in the sensor first by hand prior to the electrical connection. The sensors that I purchased each came with anti-seize, which I used sparingly on a few of the threads so that it did not contaminate the actual sensor itself. It is recommended that the sensor be torqued to 35 ft. lbs. Unfortunately, my torque wrench was way to big for this, so I just used my best judgement using the sensor tool attached to the end of a ratchet....so far, so good.
6) As for the red latch, it should easily lock (push in) as long as the rectangular electrical connection is completely flush to the bottom of the black rubber hub.
7) More importantly, make sure not to touch the sensor itself at any point during the installation...especially when taking them out of the box and plastic.
I hope this is helpful for you!
Enjoy and keep us posted!
BTW, here's the updated link to my pre-cat install for a 1999 model: http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8612&highlight=header+install
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