Best way to check oil level???
I was just wondering why Porsche decided to use two ways to measure the oil consumption? I mean it's really cool to be able to visually see it as a meter on your instrument cluster, but how accurate is that compared to the old fashion way of using the dip stick? So is the instrument oil check level just to watch it, so you can top it off if needed? Mine always says full. I check the dip stick level every 3k. It says the same. Right where it should be, but I wonder when pulling it out how much of it actually comes in contact with the inside tubing when you pull it out. I always clean it off and then put it back in 2-3 times to get a good reading, but it still seems like it is imposible not to touch the inside of the tubing collecting more oil every time you take it out. Any one else feel this way? Whats the best and most accurate way to check your oil level? :cheers:
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I would recommend checking the oil as follows:
With the engine at operating temperature, and running, on a LEVEL surface, check the oil level via the dipstick. For 987 owners... they have to rely on electronic measuring. |
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Just as when you use the dash guage the engine is off. |
I check my oil weekly, with the digital readout. It has proven very accurate so far. First thing in the morning, before starting the car.
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that 0.5 hr seems to make sense because after i gas up, my gauge doesn't reflect the new gas level until after about 20 - 30 min later. |
yes, the digital oil level display is very accurate but I also confirm by checking the dipstick. the level stays the same all the time for both cases.
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that 0.5 hr seems to make sense because after i gas up, my gauge doesn't reflect the new gas level until after about 20 - 30 min later.[/QUOTE]
That is actually a gas gauge problem. There are some post about it. If this happens to you after filling up your car, then it can be corrected by having the gas gage re-calibrated. (Just another Porsche Boxster flaw) Otherwise it's just more of a neuwsence than anything else. Gas gauge needle should rise to full tank after you fill it up emidiately after you turn the ignition key. :cheers: |
Hi,
The digital gauge is not very accurate at all. It is accurate so far as being full (under the proper circumstances - Cold, 1/2-1 Hr. at rest), other than that it is very inaccurate. Use the Dipstick, this is the most accurate way. Also, the M96 engine, w/ it's quasi-dry sump holds almost 10 Qts. of Oil. Don't obsess about having it Full all the time, this is unecessary as anything between the lowest and second to the top bar on the digital gauge, or between the hash marks on the Dipstick is OK. If you obsess about keeping it always at the Top, you run a great risk of overfilling the system which leads to foaming of the Oil and increased metal part wear in the engine. Each Bar on the digi-gauge represents 1 Cup (8oz.) of Oil. Better to allow it to drop two or three bars before topping it up to avoid overfilling, which is quite easy to do. If you overfill, you MUST drain the excess amount for the reasons stated above. The capacity of the system is so large, that there is no risk of Oil starvation, except perhaps on a Track. Everything between the Upper and Lower marks is OK, there is no More OK or Less OK. OK is OK... Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 |
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Sorry, but that's inaccurate. The problem is not an uncalibrated gauge, it is a shifted overflow tube in the tank. If this tube shifts, it will interfere with the proper movement of the float for the fuel sender. The fix is to pull the tube from the tank, zip-tie it in place to keep it from migrating toward the fuel sender float, and reinstall. Hope this helps... Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 |
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Gas Gauge Out of Calibration Diagnostic: The gas gauge on the dashboard reads low even when the tank is filled. Cause: Miscalibrated gas gauge. Details: The gas gauge can be calibrated using the PST2 (Porsche System Tool 2). The gas tank must be completely drained. Then a precise amount of gasoline is introduced into the tank. Then the PST2 is used to calibrate the gauge needle. Time in Shop: One hour. Repair Instructions: Requires dealer repair. Notes: None. I copied this straight from the board. This sounds more like what he is experiencing. Tank shows a low reading and then later slowly rises to correct level. I had the same problem. It is very common in older boxsters. :cheers: |
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Sorry, is it possible for the Fuel Gauge to be out of calibration? Yes - definitely. But, if it is, no amount of waiting is going to automatically, or mysteriously, recalibrate it. On the other hand, if you have a loose overfill tube obstructing the movement of the Fuel Sender Float, after you drive around, the tube moves again, away from the float allowing it to rise as designed, and the gauge then reflects the proper fuel level. This is what it sounds like the lister is experiencing... Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 |
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I wonder if I have a issue with my digital oil gauge. Mine comes on for maybe a second and back off, I don't have time to read it. Can this be adjusted? Because it was so fast I had to look it up in the manual to see what had flashed up there.
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when you first turn you car onto accessory...you will see the a countdown of 5 secs before the digital gauge gives you a reading....the bars will go up and down during that time.
if you crank the car up the gauge display will go out in a couple of secs... if you crank the car up then turn it off and back to accessory the countdown will now be 9 1/2 mins before it will give you a reading again...my guess it to let the oil settle back down |
Coming from an aircooled 911, the best way to check the oil is by using the dipstick. 911's had a mechanical "level" guage that, well, you learned pretty quickly to distrust and would get into the pattern of pulling out the dipstick. The newer electronic level guages may be better, but nothing beats puling out the stick. Not only can you check level, but also for discoloration as well. :)
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Very True - but not all of us have sticks, Porsche discontinued them in '04 or '05... Happy Motoring!... Jim (w/ genuine Porsche Dipstick) '99 |
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Is that true with GT2/GT3/TTs too? They are based on a different case and purported to be more "dry sumpish" than the 986/996 base motors. |
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No, they are based upon the old GT1 engine. In 1998 The GT1 Racer, went water cooled, but, on the same basic dry sumped design (block). Today's Turbos, GT2, GT3 motors are derivations of that 40 year old dry sump design, but, with full water cooling, 4 valves/cyl, and variable valve timing. In the '90s, porsche designed a totally new flat 6 - the M96 emphasizing manufacturing efficiencies. This new motor had the cylinders cast in unit with the case halves, and a new steel two piece cradle around the crankshaft.....and the "integrated dry sump". The integrated dry sump is really just a familiar oil pan below the crank and counter shafts, but, separated from them (except in the middle where there's a hole) by horizontal casting. The oil pump sucks out of the pan and supplies the engine directly from there....there is no external tank like a true Dry Sump engine. The GT2/GT3/TTs, derived from the GT1 engine (actually just the block) therefore all have a traditional Dipstick, but there is talk of modifying the M96 engine which if adopted, wouldn't have one... Happy Motoring!... Jim'99 |
Ok so one more time... Use the dp stick and oil should be from bottom of plastic level to next indent in plastic?
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Use the electronic dipstick on the dash, and measure it when the car is cold in the morning and on the level.
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