Advice on response to dealer service guy

[SigmaPi]

All,

So I took my 99 Boxster in yesterday to have a couple of items addressed under warranty (CPO).

1. When inserting key into ignition, sometimes the key will not turn and I have to fiddle with it for many minutes in order to get it to turn. While doing this sometimes the cars electrical system will turn on or won't turn off.

2. While sitting at a stop light idle will drop very low and then the engine catches and RPM's go back up. It has stalled a couple times as well.

Customer service rep calls me today and leaves the following message: Sir, I'm not sure what is wrong with your ignition,we can't recreate it. We also would like to know when the last time the battery died because voltage is very low. This could be part of your problems associated with the drop in RPM's and stall's as well as the electronics acting goofy. Please call me back at ###-####.

As far as I know, a bad battery does not physically lock the ignition to where I cannot turn the key. I am also unsure how he could make that leap unless I am missing something. As far as the RPM's dropping and the call stalling while at idle, that doesn't make sense either. If I have a bad battery on one of my other 2 cars, a bad battery does not make them stall, they simply run on the alternator and I can't start it once I shut it off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to approavh this when I talk to him tomorrow?

Sounds like a bad ignition switch. There are some DIYs on here, most say check ebay for a new one.

[SigmaPi]

"Sounds like a bad ignition switch. There are some DIYs on here, most say check ebay for a new one."


I know I already told them that, I also want them to fix it since the car is still under warranty.

[deliriousga]

You need to go through this forum, http://forums.rennlist.com and http://renntech.org and search for posts about all of the problems the bad ignition switch causes. Print a bunch of them and take them with you. If your warranty is getting close to the end, make sure it's fixed before it leaves the dealer. Be nice, but firm and take in copies of your research. Since yours is under warranty, they need to replace the entire mechanism with the updated switch and locking mechanism.

This kind of thing is why I never take her to the dealer. Many times they don't know what they are doing and they just replace a bunch of things that are just fine while playing the guessing game. By now they should be well aware of the ignition switch problem and that should be their first "guess".

[C5150]

Forgive me for any ignorance on my part - but are you sure the key not turning is not caused by the steeringwheel lock - released by turning the wheel a bit? (generally caused in my experience by not setting the e-brake before letting off the brake)

[Travis]

You're forgiven

I have had the same issue with the ignition switch, starts off feeling just like you mention below but gets worse as time goes on.

• Key will get stuck and must wiggle (the key) to remove
• when key removed radio & inside lights stay on
• AC will start acting up
• key will end up not being able to start car or even insert into ignition.

I replaced the plastic switch assembly and it has worked fine for 8 months, but i thought there was a TSB with this and the fix was to replace the entire ignition switch assembly. (took me 5 minutes and cost about $25.00)

Originally Posted by C5150

Forgive me for any ignorance on my part - but are you sure the key not turning is not caused by the steeringwheel lock - released by turning the wheel a bit? (generally caused in my experience by not setting the e-brake before letting off the brake)

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

I think you are having two unrelated issues. The electrical ignition switch and a bad MAF. Any connection is simply coincidence. @Travis, the ignition is two-pqrt, an electrical switch and mechanical steering lock-out. Either can break. The TSB you refer to has the Dealer no longer fixing either part when there's a problem, they now just replace them both. Probably another Beak-wetting for the Dealers...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Brucelee]

I would say you have a bad ignition switch.

Yes, a very low battery can cause the wierd idle problem in the Box. Of course, there are many OTHER causes, but if you battery is bad , stop by Costco and buy a new one for about $52.

Good luck.

[90red]

Not that this is a direct comparison, but on my inlaws car (GM car), they were not able to remove the key from the ignition because the battery was dead. It wasn't the steering wheel locking or anything like that, as soon as it was jumped, the key could be removed.

Originally Posted by SigmaPi

All,

So I took my 99 Boxster in yesterday to have a couple of items addressed under warranty (CPO).

1. When inserting key into ignition, sometimes the key will not turn and I have to fiddle with it for many minutes in order to get it to turn. While doing this sometimes the cars electrical system will turn on or won't turn off.

2. While sitting at a stop light idle will drop very low and then the engine catches and RPM's go back up. It has stalled a couple times as well.

Customer service rep calls me today and leaves the following message: Sir, I'm not sure what is wrong with your ignition,we can't recreate it. We also would like to know when the last time the battery died because voltage is very low. This could be part of your problems associated with the drop in RPM's and stall's as well as the electronics acting goofy. Please call me back at ###-####.

As far as I know, a bad battery does not physically lock the ignition to where I cannot turn the key. I am also unsure how he could make that leap unless I am missing something. As far as the RPM's dropping and the call stalling while at idle, that doesn't make sense either. If I have a bad battery on one of my other 2 cars, a bad battery does not make them stall, they simply run on the alternator and I can't start it once I shut it off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to approavh this when I talk to him tomorrow?

[denverpete]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

I think you are having two unrelated issues. The electrical ignition switch and a bad MAF. Any connection is simply coincidence. @Travis, the ignition is two-pqrt, an electrical switch and mechanical steering lock-out. Either can break. The TSB you refer to has the Dealer no longer fixing either part when there's a problem, they now just replace them both. Probably another Beak-wetting for the Dealers...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

I second this opinion - the drop in idle is often the very first sign of a bad MAF.

[porschedude]

I crawled underneath the dash and everything was so tight. I could not even get to the red screws close to the right. I lied down flat on the floor mat too. So please let me know how you did it? Also, did you use a mini screwdriver? Thanks!

[FrayAdjacent]

First, I'd tell 'em the key/ignition issue is well known to be a failing switch. It's a cheap part and a quick fix.

Then have them check the MAF. Not a cheap part, but it can really mess with your engine's performance if it's hosed.

If the battery is not retaining a charge, you might want to simply replace it. Get yourself an Optima Yellow Top and be happy.

ALTHOUGH, you might want to have them check the alternator. If the output voltage is low... it might not be charging your battery well.

[Travis]

It is a tight fit, but I moved the seat all the way down and back, then sat reverse in the seat and lean backwards so my head and shoulders were under the dash.

Removed (just pulled apart) the air duct and reached up to the right to the switch to unscrew, you can see the left-hand screw and will have to feel for the right hand screw (they are recessed a bit so not to hard).

I used a eyeglass screwdriver to remove, I also ordered two and keep an extra with screwdriver in my console just in case I get caught away from the house like last time.

Originally Posted by porschedude

I crawled underneath the dash and everything was so tight. I could not even get to the red screws close to the right. I lied down flat on the floor mat too. So please let me know how you did it? Also, did you use a mini screwdriver? Thanks!

[porschedude]

under warranty. The dealer should know better that the ignition switch is bad with all the problems he described. You're right about it being a tight fit under the dash...I hate it. I got mine replaced at the shop cause I was lazy but I am thinking of buying a spare switch to keep, like you. I can't believe Porsche makes such a cheapo ignition switch. My mechanic said it uses the same switch as some Audis and VWs. I know the dealer will only replace the entire cylinder mechanism for $600 or so. Honestly, there should be a recall for this part.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by porschedude

... I know the dealer will only replace the entire cylinder mechanism for $600 or so. Honestly, there should be a recall for this part...

Hi,

Go ahead, add it to the bottom of the list...

• Parts which should be recalled:
  
  1. Rear Main Seal
  
  2. Intermediate shaft and Seal
  
  3. Coolant Reservoir
  
  4. Oil Separator
  
  5. Oil Separator 'J' Tube
  
  6. Electric Top Microswitches
  
  7. Coolant Hose Clamps
  
  8. Coolant Cap
  
  9. Gas Cap
  
  10. Fuel Overfill Tube
  
  11. Center Console Lid Hinge
  
  12. Spark Plug Tube 'O' Rings
  
  13. Windstop Attachments
  
  14. Rear Boxster Script Badge
  
  15. *NEW* Electric Ignition Switch

Aren't we all Lucky to be among the Fortunate Few? j/k

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[SigmaPi]

I got my car back today. I had them perform the 45K service on it while it was there and the $450 quote turned into $575. The 45k service included, $275 of labor, 59$ for oil, .45 cents for crush ring, 20.37 for oil filter, 35.34 for air filter, 86.66 for cabin air filter, 4.60 for washer fluid, 40.62 for windshield wipers. The rest is tax. I know, I know...I could do all that by myself...but it is still under warranty and I didn't want the stealership to have some other excuse for not performing warranty work.

As far as the ignition problem, they have "lubricated the ignition switch", because they cannot recreate the locked key.

The RPM drop and stall, cannot be recreated as well. So no dice there.

I plan to drive the **************** out of it this spring to break it on principle. :troll:

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by SigmaPi

...I plan to drive the **************** out of it this spring to break it on principle. :troll:

Hi,

Sorry for your trouble, but exactly what Principle are you talking about? Sorry, but I can't respect purposely abusing your own machinery because you're po'd at the Dealer. Where's the sense in that? It's just decadent...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[SigmaPi]

Sorry for your trouble, but exactly what Principle are you talking about? Sorry, but I can't respect purposely abusing your own machinery because you're po'd at the Dealer. Where's the sense in that? It's just decadent...

Sorry Jim,

I guess I don't convey a little bit of sarcasm mixed with momentary anger well in the written form. Simply stated, I plan on driving the car much more often this spring than the last, making exceptions for weather. My hope that in doing so, I am able to make the previously stated problems more evident to the dealer via a CEL or a permanently broke ignition switch.