Stalls at temperature, only when coming to a stop.
 

I've just bought a beautiful 150k miles 2000 base, and she's having some trouble after a 4 hour roadtrip.

Beginning the car, there's a rough idle from 600-800rpm and backfires if I gas it.

When the car warms up, it stalls! Usually only when returning to low RPMs, or coming to a stop.

I recently had some post-cat o2 codes, but I've replaced them and now have no codes on my cheap OBD reader - definitely wouldn't show all the same codes as a durametric.

After the stall, it struggles to start but the rpm meter does bounce

Also recently realized the previous owner had drilled holes in the aos - I assume to relieve pressure after failure, so I've replaced that with no changes to the issue.

I've also unplugged the MAF and restarted the car, but had the same symptoms.

Could someone point me in a direction to start a diagnosis? I can't find many examples on the forum where it only stalls when warm.

Have you checked your fuel pump relay and fuel pump?

Treat your self and you car to a diagnosis by a Porsche knowledgeable person with a Porsche specific (Durametric, Pst2, PIWIS) tool. You'll learn more and be spared randomly throwing parts at the problem.

Join your local Porsche club as they usually have someone with the tools and knowledge and are willing to help new owners.

I've sometimes advised choose your mechanic before you choose your car.

Well if the legend himself advises it, that's what I'll do! Thanks btw for your website, I've used it extensively already :cheers: I've got a guy who's going to take a look and only works on Porsches. I'll update with what he finds out.

Got a Porsche shop to look at it, guy was super nice. I would recommend flat-edge if you're near Savannah or Bluffton.

This is what I was able to write down during a phone-call, and I'm not the most familiar with all thing's "car".

Cam deviation was -8 (no indication as to which bank) for the limited time they could run it. Every tube on the AOS is taped up or replaced with a custom job, there's an aftermarket fuel regulator (I think it was regulator, but I could've remembered what he said wrong), and the oil fill tube is taped together. Lastly, its running super rich, possibly a fuel injector problem. I'll probably have RC Eng clean them up for me, but I'll wait to get the codes from the shop first.

The good news; Fuel pressure was fine!

I'll get a more complete list when I go to actually pick the car up, but basically looks like vacuum leaks to fix (easy, just a lot), an air/ratio issue (maybe related to vacuum?) and a camshaft issue (dear god, why).

So... is the camshaft issue worth the trouble for a car with 150k miles? The interior and paint are in great condition and worth saving, but only up to a certain price...

I read once here that the cam deviation is going to be super out of spec until the car is properly driven and warm. Is this true? And if so, even up to -8?

So, in general, not bad news, as I read it.

You clearly have vacuum leaks to clean up. Getting the injectors out, IIRC, is a bear of a job, so I would revisit that thought later. How did the determination that it is running very rich come about?

Your belief that checking the camshaft deviations should be done with the engine at temperature is correct. Discuss that with the shop to see exactly what they did. Typically that is caused by worn actuator pads - replacing those is DIY-able, but is around 4.5 wrenches out of 5 on the difficulty scale.