First Boxster, good and bad ... your thoughts?
 

Hello, new 986 owner here. It's a 2001 S, manual with 96k miles. The body is in decent shape with some small dings but paint is good. Mechanically, it seems to be in relatively good shape. Convertible top works smoothly and all electrical works. The Carfax is clean with a record of major service done at 60k miles and water pump replaced at 65k. Regular oil changes are shown. ** I don't know about the IMS.
After driving it about 400 miles, I wanted to get a level-set on the basic maintenance. I replace the 7 year old tires with General G-Max and got an alignment. I also did an oil change (Liqui Moly 5w40), oil/air/cabin filters, plugs and coils.
The oil was previously changed at a "15-minute" place right before I bought it. It came out clean with no metal or plastic. The spark plugs were very loose. 4 of the 6 broke free with about 5-10nm of force. The other 2 were just loose and were wet above the threads. The coils looked OK, but I replaced them anyway. After the plugs and coils, it idles and runs so much smoother. I didn't notice the rough idle before as I just assumed it was small-car vibes. Much better now.
I plan to clean the radiators, change the transmission fluid, flush the brake fluid and coolant, and replace the serpentine belt over the next couple of months.

Now the bad (other than unknown IMS status).
1. While under the car, I noticed the following: the shroud under the engine is missing. It looks like the right rear drove over a curb at some point. The large aluminum brace on that side has some scrapes and a very slight bow to it. The car is in alignment, however. Also, there does appear to be an oil leak on the right (passenger) side of the engine. No drops on the floor, just wet.
2. As for driving, I do get some vibration between 50 and 60. It doesn't seem to change if I turn left or right, so I am thinking it is not wheel bearings. Possibly bent wheel? Also, the clutch feels good but gear shifts are notchy and sometimes take some force, especially 2nd. I will most likely end up taking it to an indy shop for a shake down.
3. There is heater foam in the vents, the drink holder won't stay closed and driver side door window rattles in the door frame when it is lowered.

All-in-all I am happy with my impulse buy, knowing that some pop-up costs could park if for a few months at a time. When I feel I have a handle on the mechanical condition, I plan to take it to a track-driving instruction session. Can't wait!

As an aside, working on the car was somewhat easy but would be so much easier with an overhead lift. I'm not as flexible as I used to be! :cheers:

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If you already have 96k miles on clock you should not really think about IMS.

Just oil for metal particles to be on the safe side.

Foam in vents is a bigger job then you think if you want to make it all the right way.

Two more things to check, if there is any leaks under carpets specially under heavy rain.

Wysłane z mojego M2101K9G przy użyciu Tapatalka

what plugs are those .? have the exact number ? im looking to replace mine but tough getting recommendations on which ones to use

I also have a 2001 Boxster S . 170K km on it . I am just replacing the variocam pads and updating the tensioners.
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mine also had the rear engine skid plate missing and even had a patch on one of the cats so definitely some off road activity.
When i got the new skid plate ( 80.00 used ) i noticed the holes didn't line up on the studs to mount it . Someone on here told me that this was not all that unusual and told me how to fix it ( a ratchet straff and loosen and retighten the crossmember. Obviously this needs to be done before alignment.

ironically I have a seal grey too.... lol. with all the same issues.

{removed post - redundant

Looks like a big job. Not sure when my time will come...
For spark plugs, I used Bosch FGR-6-KQE.
NGK alternative is BKR6EKUB. Beru alternative is FGR-6-KQU. Of course, you can pay 5x more for Porsche genuine plugs (which looks strikingly similar to the NGK which happens to be cheaper than the Bosch).
I will note that I did some light Googling on Bosch vs NGK today. On a BMW forum, there were several stories of Bosch plugs loosening on their own. I can definitely say the Bosch plugs that I removed were very loose. I think I may have gone NGK given what I know now.

If Beru it should be Z129. Undoubted quality.

excellent info thanks .... strangely enough while doing this job i found the plugs shockingly loose. i think they were Bosch but i will double check.

If the plugs were loose, is Not because they were Bosch brand..
it was because the person that got them installed didn't torque them down properly.. :rolleyes:

Nice looking Seal Gray car and it looks like you have a good start on it. There's a couple things I'd like to add to the comments.

Water Pump: Water pumps in these cars often fail by age as well as mileage. I highly recommend replacing it. The best time is going to be when you plan to replace the serpentine belt and flush the coolant anyway. While you are at it, add replacing the engine mount at the same time. There are a couple bolts on the water pump that are much easier to get a (torque) wrench on while the engine mount is removed. If there is no record of the engine mount being replaced, there's a 100% chance that it is cracked. ...and while you are in there consider installing a low temperature thermostat.
Here's a good DIY article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/34-WATER-Thermostat_and_Pump/34-WATER-Thermostat_and_Pump.htm
***Notes - two of the water pump bolts are longer than the others. They go in the positions that have dowel pins on the pump. Do not put them in the wrong holes. Use the proper 'coated metal' gasket for the water pump and NO sealant. Use a Pierburg brand pump (same as original equipment). Tq 7ft/10Nm all bolts.

Note for the engine mount: I buy the insert ($) and press it in rather than buying a complete mount ($$$$). Here's the DIY: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/10-ENGINE-Engine_Mounts/10-ENGINE-Engine_Mounts.htm

Vent Debris: Meir did a great write up on how to take apart the HVAC system and repair the heater/defrost flaps. It was discussed in this thread: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/42802-interior-vent-debris.html
and the instructions in .PDF form can still be downloaded here: https://986forum.com/forums/548591-post5.html
On the 37th and 38th posts in this thread, I outline an alternative method to what Meir posted: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/42802-interior-vent-debris-2.html

Welcome to the forum. :cheers:

If you want to buy a couple used parts such as the aluminum brace, I have parts cars and a couple shelves full of parts. I don't list stuff for sale generally, but if you ask I can check if it's available. Also, I noticed that you are in the DFW area. Some of the guys I rallycross with are in DFW and can shuttle parts from me to your area to save on shipping.

I also read that new plugs and reused plugs are to be tightened to different values. If eusing plug you tighten to 18.5 foot lbs vs new at 22. , problem is i have read so much recently i cant remember where i saw it .

Can anyone confirm? when i did the valve covers i went to check a plug and it was barely finger tight but looked in great shape so just want to re tighten.

agreed... just going to retighten for now ... if car warrants it . i will replace plugs and coils down the road..

Correct.
One of my cars recently had one plug that was squeaking on start up, but otherwise ran fine. When I checked, #2 plug was barely finger tight. I use anti-seize on the plugs and I expect that if the torque is a little low when they are installed, they will loosen over time.

The Factory Manual (updated as of 2004) pg 03--1.6 says 30 Nm/22 Ftlb new and 25 Nm/18.5 Ftlb used.


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Thanks for the info! I am pretty sure the engine mount is toast, so it is on the list.