Yes, an engine stand would be just the ticket. I've used them before and they're great. Can't justify buying one, though, because I'm close to finishing the engine. After that I'm hoping I'll have no need for one for a long, long time. By the way, Grant, I'd like to check out your procedures for dropping an engine and putting one back in. How many times have you done that?

Congratulations, your project is moving along pretty good! :-) I was away for a few days and it was a nice surprise to see the cams on your workbench!

A while ago, I bought a cheap engine stand from Harbor Freight that I used it on the X1/9 (Fiat) and also on the Alfa Milano engines, but never use it on the 987 (never had the need, as it supposed to require an adaptor for the M96/97 that costs way more than the engine stand.. lol

I used a stand when I disassembled one, but it was tough getting the IMS out because of the bolt pattern. I have since seen pictures of them being used with the M96 but couldn't tell if they were using the special mount or just had better bolt positioning.
LoneWolfGal: it is remarkably easy to remove and install the engine--if you have a lift. With my now-1000-miles-away two-post, I just disconnected everything and lifted the car off the engine and trans.
Just reverse to replace--and watch that e-brake cable! I have done it 4 times, all but one by myself.
It is remarkably easy if you do it in unit with the transmission.

Like Newsguy in the previous post I have done four swaps. Since I have Quickjacks that have a lift height that leaves a bit to be desired I have worked out a complicated way to get the engine out. As I understand it you are using jackstands so the easiest way is to drop the engine and transmission then use the engine hoist to lift the rear of the rear of the car enough to pull the engine out. As Newsguy says, "I just disconnected everything and lifted the car off the engine and trans... and watch that e-brake cable!"
I haven't done it this way but one thing I would watch out for is that the front of the car can rotate on the jackstands as the rear is lifted, without slipping off them.

I prefer to remove the engine and transmission together, mainly because separating the engine and transmission and reconnecting them is a lot easier out of the car than under it.

Thanks, guys.

I'll definitely drop the engine and transmission as a unit (despite naively stating in an early post that I wanted to leave the transmission in, like I've done with conventional engines). I planned to drop the engine onto a low-profile dolly, but I've gotten the impression that, even if I remove the rear bumper cover and muffler (and fuel tank?), I'll still need more clearance to get the engine out. Bummer. What lift point would I use to lift the rear end of the car with a hoist? I have chains and a couple of beefy ratchet straps at my disposal.

I've been studying the chapter about engine removal in 101 Projects, which has a fairly comprehensive step-by-step how-to for disconnecting stuff in the engine compartment and underneath the car. I thought I'd compare it with other folks' procedures, as belt and suspenders. I also have the service manual. The videos I've watched tend to be superficial, skipping over lots of important stuff. Maybe I haven't found the right video yet.

Newsguy, I salivate when I look at 2-post lifts. It's a must-have tool. Someday...

The easiest way is to remove the rear bumper cover and muffler, the fuel tank is in the front of the car so you can leave that alone

D'OH!. I mixed it up with my Isuzu after being under it recently to fix the starter. What about my muffler bearings, think I need to replace them?

Those are wear items and a definite "while you're there" must! I think LN makes a "Solution" for them, too.

No, but be sure to buy some high compression floor mats and refill your blinker fluid......

The new LN environmentally friendly muffler bearing:

https://i.etsystatic.com/14029693/r/...86067_av7u.jpg

And look at that craftsmanship! I'm sold! :cheers:

This is the kind of next-level technical support that makes this forum what it is!

If the bumper cover is off you can use the bumper or the bumper mounting points... I think.

I used the Pelican instructions, the Bentley book and my own list that I revise every time I do an engine.
Here are links to my instructions on Dropbox
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ss2dbwsi1tlsvjvxaddik/Engine-Transmission-attach-and-verify-list.odt?rlkey=ms3vlhjb0ak51n1my6ebfpu9p&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/12j4u0qhvvhmvlv19zhfo/Engine-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=occnpqnq3dez5ic7mcvqy3awa&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ptqvt6ya9b71i4xt06z1k/Notes-on-checklists.odt?rlkey=8zliunz2x4yolvung6isqqux7&dl= 0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/4tazjtr9sj3ndlz3n8eo9/Transmission-removal-checklist.odt?rlkey=xit5tht6b1kh5uji7bedze33p&dl=0

Got the compression tool this afternoon. Never one to work on something out in the shop when I can work on it inside in front of the TV and near snacks, I brought the cams in for the procedure. I ran into a problem right off the bat: My deep socket set only goes down to 9mm. I needed an 8mm, so I pressed an 8mm box-end wrench into service. It worked well until pressure caused the nylon washer under the nut to bulge, to the point where I can't get the wrench on it. If I had an 8mm deep socket I could probably bear down on it enough to seat the socket on the nut. As to why the washer accompanying the nut is made of nylon instead of brass or steel, that's a good question. Only two solutions to the problem, as I see it: (1) scare up an 8mm deep socket somewhere, or (2) use a metal washer under the nut. I lean toward (2), unless there's a compelling reason why I shouldn't. I invite your input.

Also, it's amazing how ingrained right-hand thread operation is. A half-dozen times I caught myself turning it clockwise with the intention of tightening it and groaning when I noticed the nut was traveling up the rod instead of down. When I consciously turned the nut counterclockwise to tighten it, it felt... wrong. And weird. I suppose I'd get over it after a year or two, three years at most, of working with left-hand threads.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745897912.jpg

Grant, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks so much!

You're welcome. I should mention that there are points where the instructions lack clarity, especially because I did separate instructions for the engine and the transmission, so the cross over from one to the other needs some thinking. Also there are several references to my specific situation which do not apply to everyone (re: Quickjacks for instance). I did try to name the tools necessary at each step so you can roll under the car with everything you need. I would like to add to my garage a permanent helper who would run and get me that 11mm socket that I forgot before installing myself under the middle of the car on the creeper.

Unless I hear a "Don't do it," I'm going to find a small metal washer to use under the compression tool's nut instead of the nylon washer. I'd like to get those new pads in while I'm still young (relatively speaking).

Do it. It won't harm anything except maybe mar the surface a little, but it won't affect the tensioner or chain's function in any way. It seems to me like that hole has only one purpose, anyway, and that's for the tool. Maybe put a little oil between the washer and the nut.

Thanks, Al. A friend is coming over later with his flat washer assortment, since I don't have any washers that small. And oil is a good idea.

The work stoppage caused by a small flat washer didn't catch me by surprise. By now, I've come to expect it. It's a Porsche, after all. I'm used to having the wackiest stuff happen, things that made me cock my head to the side like a dog listening to an ultrasonic whistle. Don't get me wrong, I love the car. I especially appreciate how it handles. I've had 911 owners sneer at it, as they are inclined to do, but they blow a fuse when I suggest that the mid-engine design gives my 986 superior weight distribution and more predictable handling than a 911. They don't like that one bit. Not that I wouldn't have a 911. (Or ideally, an all-wheel-drive 959, which has the same rear-engine form factor.) However, I'm totally satisfied with my 986. I figure encountering oddball stuff while working on it is part of the cost of owning it.