To "anti-seize" or not, is the question.
 

I don't have a Porsche factory service manual for any of my cars. I used to have the old factory microfiches for my 928.

Recently while replacing a rear wheel bearing on a 986, my techs found a steel caliper bolt seized in the carrier. Threads came out with the bolt. Machine shop on premises, so a Heli-Coil was installed. Made me wonder if Porsche uses and recommends aluminum or bronze anti-seize on steel parts directly inserted into alloy threads? I've only seen factory thread locker used on Porsche steel fasteners. What's the FSM say? Sparkplugs as well? Just oil drops or anti-seize before any torquing? For reference, I learned on Italian and British cars, and anti-seize was liberally used, especially in racing.

There are two kinds of people in this discussion; those with seized and galled fasteners, and those that used anti seize..................

Hello JFP, speaking of anti seize..
I always put a very small amount of thee grey anti seize it on the spark plug threads (have don it for many years with the aluminum heads) and never had an issue with this practice, but I remember reading somewhere that on the plugs you should only use copper anti seize to help maintain a proper grounding, what do you use for this application?

Any metal based (silver aluminum, copper, or black nickel) will work just fine. On any high temperature application, like spark plugs. we always used nickel due to its excellent high temp properties.

Thanks JFP! I bought a can of black nickel anti seize about 20 years ago and still has a lot of paste inside.. :p

On applications like spark plugs or exhaust manifolds, it cannot be beaten. And I have no idea how old mine are, we buy stuff like anti seize or PTFE thread sealer in the largest containers they make as just about everyone in the shop is constantly reaching for them; they are consumables like shop towels or toilet paper, and like them never go "out of date".

On caliper bolts?
I question because I never heard of it.

Decidedly on caliper bolts, one area where tread stripping or galling due to dissimilar metal reaction is a common problem......

Thanks JFP, that’s why I still come to this forum all the time

Thank you for confirming. Does Porsche recommend its use on steel in the service literature? I am surprised to see it not used in production. My Porsches are original and most are low-mileage, so they are as they left the factories. I just want to know if factory torque values are given with anti-seize on threads or dry.

In Europe, anti-seize compounds are chemically different than the ones you get here, as ours are known to be toxic metallic compounds; so they don't use theirs on electrically conductive surfaces like spark plugs as the EU versions can interfere with conductivity. Anti-seize compounds in the US are both electrically and thermally conductive, so they can be used on such applications.

As for torque specs, they should always be on fasteners with some type of lubrication such as specialty lubes like ARP Assembly Lubricant, or an anti-seize compound. ARP published an extensive white paper on the differences in actual achieved torque, and fastener to fastener achieved torque consistency with and without some type of lubricant being used; while it is a long read, but a real revelation about the correct way to achieve correct torque on fasteners. A little lubrication, be it a specialty product, thread locker, or anti-seize makes a considerable difference in obtaining the desired clamping force; and on some applications like Porsche flywheel bolts, which are torque to spec then + 90 degrees additional rotation, makes tightening the fasteners a lot more achievable without killing yourself in the process.