![]() |
Low battery symptoms
Greetings folks.
I think I need a new battery...there' been some weird symptoms: -slow cranking at times - I charged it in the spring, but doesn't seem to hold that robust crank power when starting after a couple of weeks -the battery light comes on, then goes out after restart -randomly the spoiler lifts on start up with battery light on - press spoiler down button, battery light goes out -battery light with oil light comes on when starting, goes out after restart (fresh synthetic/full of oil) I have a Foxwell scanner with Porsche coding, but not an expert on that yet. Before I head to my Indy for a battery test, just wanted to run this past the brain trust. Thoughts? |
Sounds like the battery to me. In the US most auto parts stores can test the battery for free, maybe try that before going to an indy.
|
You need to have your battery "load" tested.
That will tell you if it is a battery problem or not. |
Quote:
. |
Your battery sounds like it has a bad cell. A simple load test with a voltage meter while cranking the
engine will show a significant voltage drop if such is the case. |
Thanks, I figured a bad cell is the most likely suspect.
My Indy is a good friend, so he won't charge me to load test it. Now, to get things rolling...battery recommendations? Sorry, had to do it.:D Cheers gents! :cheers: |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Nothing special about the P-car battery except the physical size and positive, negative placement of the posts. Should have a tube for venting if not an AGM. So recent a battery should be under some warranty coverage. But also test your alternator's output. And clean the contact posts/points. If I could do it, anyone can.
The 986 (Model years 1997-2004) takes a BCI Group 48 (12.1X 6.9 X 7.6"), the 987 (2005-) takes a BCI Group 94R ( 12.4 X 6.9 X 7.5 "); both right hand positive terminal. The 94R is also slightly lower in CCA. The 986 Tiptronic battery is bigger than the manual transmission version. They are listed this way in the general section of the official repair manuals: Ah/A 60/280 Manual Ah/A 70/320 Tiptronic So buy a bigger CCA battery if you live in colder climes, drive a TIP Boxster, or have a bigger amp in the car. |
Quote:
My experience has always been that a battery with a higher "CCA" rating always lasts longer. On average I get 10-12 years from a battery. My 2000S battery tray has two hold down positions for both a group 48 and also a H7 Group 48 has a "CCA" rating of 690 where as the H7 has a rating of 800 "CCA" The group 48 that the previous owner had installed lasted three years. I replaced it with the H7 I expect to get 10-12 years life from it. |
My Boxster failed to start once last winter and I had to jump start it. During the last few weeks if I drove a short distance the car sounded like it was barely turning over when I restarted it. I checked my records and the battery was 7-years old.
I decided that I was risking another failure and replaced it with an Interstate AGM battery in size H7 (94R.) The H7 is larger than the battery I removed (Bosch 48-690B.) The H7/94R Interstate battery is rated at 850 CCA. Consumer Reports tested a smaller H6 Interstate AGM battery which the manufacturer rated at 760 CCA. It rated the life expectancy as 5/5, the CCA as 4/5 and the reserve capacity as 4/5. They rated an Optima H6 ($290) and an Odyssey Performance ($260) slightly higher than the Interstate. The AGM batteries are more expensive. I paid $175 at Costco. However, the information I've been able to find indicates that they are better able to tolerate a situation in which the car is not driven for an extended period. Although I normally drive my Boxster several times per week, we had some ice and snow during the winter and I didn't drive it for about 10 days. That is when I had the starting issue. The AGM battery also has a 3-year full replacement warranty. |
Great information, thanks gents!:cheers:
|
Quote:
I haven't confirmed that since i haven't fixed this yet in my car since it has always started, albeit slow. The harness is not too expensive, but I've heard it is a bear to replace. :cheers: |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Does he mean the starter spins the engine over slower when warm then it does when the engine is cold???? Which would be caused by the voltage drop situation you describe. Or does he mean the starter spins the engine over for a longer period of time before it starts when warm versus cold.???? Which often times is caused by an issue with the EVAP. system. Things like the purge valve being stuck open. |
The starter cable is known to get heat soaked. Best thing to do is replace it with a better gauge wire.
|
Quote:
|
Update: picked up a new Delco battery yesterday. 780 CCA, fits nicely, starts like a champ.
$228 CAN with a 30 month warranty included. I changed the battery in the parking lot and they even took my old one for free. One less project! :cheers: |
Seal1968,
I see you're in Chatsworth and I'd imagine it gets quite chilly up there. The 780cca battery will do you good for a while to come. I recommend getting a trickle charger / battery tender and having it connected when you aren't driving it for more than a week. I replaced my previous battery with an Interstate (sorry, I forget exactly which one) and it works well but not as high CCA as yours, but okay for Toronto weather. I leave mine connected to a battery tender when not in use for over a week and it has held up well so far. Our Toyota factory-installed Panasonic (made in Japan) battery in our daily driver failed literally after the 5 year mark. It has a low CCA and died this past winter as it couldn't be saved after the harsh winter we had last year. I replaced it with a Motomaster battery and so far so good. The fit isn't perfect, but for the price, I will not complain. |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:09 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website