Electrical problem
 

There is a strange electrical problem with my boxster year 1997.
When I turn the power off and I get out of the car and close the door. The car is partially left on. The radio stays playing and I can't lock the doors with the remote control. The radio will turn off on its own in about 5 -10 minutes and after that I will also be able to lock the doors with the remote control.
I have allready replaced the ignition switch electrical part, no help.

Can somebody help me?

Were you able to see ANY changes after replacing the switch?
It sure sounds like ignition switch.

No.
Time when electrical turn off is mayby little quicker. But mayby it is variable anyhow.
Is there any relay what is mayby faulty?

Sorry, I am not aware of any relay.

top drains clear?
Sure sounds like ignition switch but the only other thing i can think of is immobilizer.

Top drains? What is top drains?

I do not believe immobilizer… there is no issue with starting. Only when I switch ignition off it is delayed. Actually Ignition current goes off and all lights also only radio remain on and I can not close doors with remote control… or thats only what I can detect.

Mine does this too. I think it is the ignition switch not returning all the way to the off position. Make sure to twist hard. It usually will eventually get to the off position if you let it sit. I know it's happening because my radio stays on.

Forgot to mention- It's also difficult to get the key back in.

Your symptoms may be related to a sticky steering lock bolt. This thread explains what I went through.
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/75336-steering-locking-mechanism-problem-how-i-resolved.html
I'm not sure of this but it could be that the bold binds and prevents the key baril and the electrical switch from returning all the way to the 0 position. A healthy bolt will make a loud clunk when it slides into the locked position after you remove the key. The unit I fixed in the above thread does this. On my current Boxster the key was very hard to turn, especially in lower temperatures. I tried to lubricate the bolt without removing it and although it is improved it still does not clunk and it takes a couple of seconds for the electrical switch to make it back to the 0 position.

Problems started in the cold weather. When car is in warm garage delay is shorter. Last summer it works fine. I can not hear any clunk sound when I take key off...
I have to clean and lubricate that bolt.
Is it so that the entire locking mechanism needs to be removed???

You don't have to remove the entire steering lock mechanism only the cylinder which can be removed using the paperclip as described in several threads on the forum. I had the exact same issues as described by you and performed that "surgery" several years ago. It has just now started to act sluggish in cold weather again and takes several seconds to completely shut off. When I removed my cylinder I soaked in a mild degreaser and flushed many times with some brake cleaner. It's amazing what came out. I then soaked in a lubricant for a few hours and cleaned my keys thoroughly. It was 100% improved and has lasted for the better part of two years.

That is the best way, but you could try drilling a hole in the plate indicated by the arrow in this picture and squirting some thin oil in.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1639779536.jpg

It may be possible to get access by removing the vent to the left of the key.

I tried this but no help. The key moved freely in the cylinder and the inside of the cylinder also moved easily. I cleaned it anyway and lubricate well.

Next time when I have time have to try drill hole and lubricated that bolt or remove entrire locking mechanism.

I know people say that it is incredibly hard to replace the entire ignition assembly, but it really isn't. There are a lot of steps and it takes some time but it is pretty straightforward. I ordered the new assembly before discovering there is a cheap fix with the Audi part and while it was expensive, it wasn't hard to change.

To answer your question about the drains: The 986 has four drain holes, two near the battery and two under the convertible top clamshell. Rainwater gets in these areas, and these drain holes let the water flow out to the ground. If the holes are clogged, water can end up leaking into the cabin.

Unfortunately, the (expensive) immobilizer is mounted on the floor of the cabin under the driver's seat. If the cabin gets enough water on the floor, the immobilizer can be damaged and cause a number of weird problems. Search Google for lots of videos, "How to clean 986 drain holes."

Most of the folks here are pretty sure your issue is the ignition switch, not the immobilizer. But it's a really good idea to keep your drains clear in any case, before you damage your immobilizer.

Thanks for the tips. Floor is dry for now. Car is most of time in the garage when it's not on the road.