Cannot get the transmission bracket (aluminum cover) back on, holes do lot line up
 

I've read through all the threads and seems the solution is a ratchet strap on the bottom of the subframe braces. Will try that this evening but wondering if that will work for my situation.
I can get the cover over the subframe studs and the rear strut studs. But then the front holes are about 1/4" forward of the holes in the crossmember. I can put a punch through one side and pull back and get the other hole a little closer but not enough to get the bolt in straight.
Then if I pull the cover back off and loosely install the crossmember bolts, I can get the right subframe side on and left rear subframe. But the two left front subframe studs are at least 1/4" forward of the two holes in the cover. (attached photo)

If I use a ratchet strap isn't it just going to pull the studs inward? I need them to go towards the rear and not inward.
Also, If I install it the first way I can get all the nuts on except for the front holes are 1/4" forward of the holes in the crossmember. Again, wouldn't a strap just pull the subframes closer together on the bottom and not move the aluminum plate towards the rear 1/4" ?
I have the nuts a little loose on the upper subframe hoping it would help line the holes up, but it doesn't.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1624546231.jpg

Yes, it will work, but as you have loosened the upper bolts (unnecessary) you will need to have the car aligned. Next time, just use the strap and you will be fine.

Thank you, I'll try and hope it works. And I planned on an alignment anyways as I had to replace the subframe, hub carrier, strut, axle, and all the control arms.

I was in a similar situation as you when I put mine back on a few months back. I had to push out on the subframe while lining up the holes. A bit akward to do (and nerve wrenching since you're under the car doing this) but with some force it will go. Just make sure to go slow and deliberate, no sudden moves.

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I can see pushing out if the studs were inside of the holes, but mine are in front of the holes so I'd have to push the subframe towards the rear. I'll see what the strap does.

I was finally able to get the transmission plate on. As I thought before, since the holes were forward of the studs a ratchet strap on the subframe pulling it in did nothing.
What I had to do was put the ratchet strap between the crossmember and front control arm and that pulled the crossmember just a tad forward so the two bolts would go in.

I was able to get the right diagonal brace on but not the left. I bought a undamaged used one but with the front bolt on, the front two subframe studs line up but the rear ones are off about 1/4" to the outside. I put the ratchet strap around the subframes and hoping the subframe would pull a little inward so the holes would line up. But with the transmission plate on now, the subframe wouldn't budge.

I'm wondering if my frame is bent, the car went up the curb and broke the left rear wheel, hub carrier, subframe, axle, and all the control arms.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Starting to sound like it......

This is why I am surprised insurance didn't total the car out from all the damage. With what happened frame damage was almost certain.

Actually I got it all back together amd it’s driving just fine. Will see what the alignment shop says.
I got the diagonal brace on the subframe studs but the front hole was about 1/4” off front the bolt hole under the fender. I put the ratchet strap around the front of the diagonal brace and the other end to the pillar of my front porch. Torqued it a little to pull the brace over 1/4” so I could get the bolt in.
Torqued all the nuts/bolts and took it for a test drive and drive fine.
I do have a ABS and brake sensor light. Have too look at that this weekend.