CV Drive Axles
 

I have a low mileage S and discovered that both rear drive axles have split boots on the inner joint (no noticeable driving issues - just the visual inspection). I've been reading and watching videos and I'm on the fence about DIYing it ... which could mean: pay a mechanic. One shop quoted me with refurbished OEM drive axles. I didn't think that was possible. Does anyone have experience with something like a refurbed axle? Are they superior to the DSS or other aftermarket parts?

Thanks in advance!

Refurbished OEM axles are superior to aftermarket , but this assumes the shop knows what they are doing .

A lot of refurbished axles can be little spotty so find the brand and check out peoples previous experiences. Replacing CV axles is a great skill to learn as it is a very common repair, so don’t shy away from it, first time should take around 2 hours, second will will take about an hour. Next thing you know you will be doing them in a half hour.

Thanks! I'll give it a try - might as well since I have to justify the quick jack purchase :)
I'll see if I can find more resources for remanufactured suppliers up here in Canada ... so far nothing obvious.

Thanks again!

If you're not having any driving issues associated with the bad boots why are you considering new/used axles?

Why don't you just have the boots replaced? :cool:

I haven't done this on the Boxster yet but I have done this on my 911. I have 2 comments...

• If the CV joints look clean (no dirt got in) you may want to try repacking in place and use one of these split boots that you glue around the axle
• If you decide to place and tackle this yourself, make sure that the mounting bolts are free of any grease, etc. If you get grease on the bolt threads you run the risk of them backing out

And you should torque them to spec after putting a dab of medium strength Loctite on them..............

Yep - just go to the Pelican Parts 911 forum and search this up - you will be surprised by how many people talk about driving down the road and a CV becoming disconnected.

Yikes! I'll make sure of the torque specs - I wasn't clear on whether I had to order new bolts and a new Axle nut. Even though I'm going to replace and repack the boots, I still need to loosen the axle nut?

well to replace & repack you have to take the axle out of the car so, yea, you have to loosen & remove the axle nut.

lol -If I get my head out of the manual and think a bit, that does make sense! Thanks!

One set of instructions has me undoing the ball joint to get the axle out - another set has me dropping the exhaust on the passenger side .... ugh. Anyone done this before? There was a detailed instructional post on this site but I can't locate it ...

Sometimes you have to just get in there and figure it out. Manuals are good, but they are written from a certain perspective which isn't always the same as the person doing the work.

The original joints have scoring from the bearings so I'm going to replace the axles (one axle has a torn boot on the outer, non-serviceable joint). There are numerous posts slamming Chinese parts (IMO it isn't the country, it's the QC and accountability of any place of manufacture) but DSS ,GSP and FEQ are the only manufacturers I'm seeing. Other than porsche, are there any others?
Thanks!

Get yourself a long cheater poll (not bar) The axle bolts are torqued way up there!!!

Axle nut is 320 lb-ft IIRC.
Replace axle nuts with new.

Which did you end up using?

Which did you end up using?

I bought the DSS axle and they’re only $117, working great, and they have a 3yr warranty.
Only thing I had to do was the outer boot clamp where it’s crimped would just barely rub the hub carrier when turning the wheel. Just mushed it tad and works great.