Unthinkable oil proposal
 

So the snow has melted and we have a few nice days. I put the insurance back on the boxster fired it up and took it for a nice drive . Man I forgot how well this handled after a few months without. I put just over 2000 miles last season with no place to go due to the pandemic. Normally I get about 5000 in a summer. I changed the oil last spring with Mobil 1. Do I really need to change it again with just 2000 miles on that last change. Yes it’s been in there a year. I’ve read articles written by oil engineers that claim you can go 3 years without worrying about it. I know the ims thing. Just thought I would ask the community. You pull the stick and it looks like I just put it in there.

The owner's manual says 15.000 miles or every 2 years. But, hey, what do they know.
I agree 15K is too much, but between there and every year or 5K is a big difference.
Give me a minute to put on my fireproof suit before flaming me...

MrBen, I'm in the same boat as you. I put in maybe 2000 miles last year. I chose to change mine. I've read that oil becomes acidic after some time, but I guess that applies more to conventional, not so much synthetic. There's also blow-by that contaminates the oil, but with 2000 miles, I don't think that's a big deal. Question is, even with minimal blow-by contamination, what does that do to the oil after sitting for so many months?

For me, changing the oil once a year regardless of the low miles is not a big deal.

You're most likely perfectly fine not changing it. I guess in this situation it all comes down to personal preference.

You should be changing it before you put it away for the winter; one of the worst things you can do is leave dirty oil in a car in storage.

The oil collects both fuel and water, which if left to sit can create acidic compounds in the oil, breaking down the oil and attacking the metal surfaces.

Fresh oil is the cheapest insurance you can get for your engine. And if you DIY it is a great time to check other things under there like brakes & suspension after a summer of driving. Change it once a year before you put it to bed in the fall and she is ready for another driving season when spring comes.:cheers:

I've less than 1000 miles on my 98 that hasn't been started in 5 months (pending transmission repair). Would you recommend an oil change after the repair? Also... should I be concerned about the first start after that period? Should I pull the fuse so the car doesn't start... just to build up some oil pressure... get things "wet" before that first after five month start?

Thank you, JFP. :D

Yes.......

100%. An annual oil change is cheap and easy. I don't understand the rationale of not changing it.

Yes....
 

....Change your oil every six months, without fail, no matter what.

I have a Harley as well same situation less miles. I get the same advice. I also have a Ranger tug. The Ranger has 120 hours on the Diesel engine so it for sure should get an oil change. Oddly enough in the boating world it’s more exceptible to change the fluids in the spring. What about the John Deere tractor. Rzr. I question the idea that the oil can sit in the jug indefinitely but once you unscrew the cap and dump it in the sump it has a limited life expectancy. I guess I should take a week right after South Dakota pheasant hunting buy a few cases of oil and knock them all out at once there’s a few more I haven’t mentioned

To the OP why not send off an oil sample for analysis ? We car owners have lots of opinions on oil , why not let an oil analysis be the referee ? Just my opinion but no one regardless of their expertise can just look at oil on the end of a dipstick and make an educated decision on change or don't change . Unless the oil is pitch black .

I am NOT challenging anyone's advice that has been given , just suggesting that let an oil scientist inspect your oil sample and give feedback on that analysis . What do you have to lose ?

Really!?!?!?
 

Oil analysis?!?!?!

In the time and expense of getting a used oil analysis, you can replace your old oil and filter.

Don’t over think it.

Oil just sitting in the sump, with the car never started, collects water from condensation every morning. It’s not that the oil itself goes bad, it’s that it collects water and will creat sludge and corrosion.

Just change your oil. You bought a car, cars are mechanical devices and they require basic maintenance.

Just change it and get busy living.

I didn't realize oil analysis was a way off suggestion . The OP obviously is questioning if he should throw away possibly good oil . The only way to know that I am aware of is oil analysis .

We have been programmed via excellent oil company marketing that oil should be changed every 3K . Oil analysis many times say's the oil and additive package can go a lot longer . It is just a data point to help make a decision .

Or as others have suggested just change it and be done . Freedom of choice does exist 😊

Freedom of choice....
 

.....is indeed a beautiful thing.

But not changing your oil every six months is far from beautiful.

You invested in a nice car. Spend the money and time to just change the oil every six months.

It’s not some big oil company conspiracy.

It’s science.

Like I posted, it’s not a matter of the oil itself “going bad”, it’s a matter of water condensation in the sump over time contaminating the oil.

Just change your oil.

Would you change the oil in your Learjet before flying across the ocean after she sat in the hanger all winter?

I’m done now.

Good luck.

Every 3K miles for me - since COVID I am only driving weekly. It's been a year so I am actually changing oil this Friday.

I left the oil for 14 months in my Audi after driving it 3K miles not driven much. After a year with fewer than 5K miles, I changed it and looked brownish. It is a turbo and I use 100% synthetic. I wil never go over 1 year without changing the oil regardless of mileage. I drive my P car less than 2K miles/year and always change the oil 100% synthetic M1 0-40W before storage--6 months in storage.

Change oil based on age; change filter based on mileage. Thats my $.02.

2k miles that filter hasn't filtered anything, but the oil has degraded some.

I change the oil on my bike every year before winter storage regardless of mileage. And then I change it after about 1000 miles of ride time in the spring. I change the filter on the bike every 4000 miles (Honda recommended interval). All my other engines (except the lawnmower) get run year round. I guess that puts me in the change the oil side of the argument.

Total nonsense. Every 6 months is a waste of good oil and good money. Do a uoa after 6 months and you'll see your oil is fine. On cars i dont drive much, i do roughly 18 months or 5000 miles, whatever comes first

Quadcammer....
 

....As I posted, twice already, it’s not that the oil itself “goes bad”, it’s that the oil sump fills with water from condensation and the fuel that gets by the piston rings.

The contaminants collect in the sump.

Just sitting in there, corrosion occurs and your oil will not be as good a lubricant because it won’t just be oil that is being pumped throughout your engine on startup.

And for crying out loud, if you invested in a sports car, you made a commitment to owning a complex piece of machinery, and that requires maintenance. And that costs money.

So suck it up, and drop a $100 on an oil change.

I’m sorry, but if $100 every six months is “wasting money”, then you should not have invested in the car in the first place.

Ride a bicycle.

And lube the bike chain. :)

I agree with frequent oil changes if it`s reasonable. But changing oil every half year in a car that was sitting makes no sense to me either. It`s a waste for the environment. Yes, oil gets acidic because of blow by, as exhaust gases produce acids in the oil eventually. But an engine that`s sitting nothing is going to blow by the rings. Also, it`s a closed system, accumulation of water from air is negligible in 6 months. Its not hygroscopic like brake fluid.

I think yall got the wrong question to be asking... Why do yall let your car sit for 6 months without driving it. LOL


I know its cause of salt; not everyone can be blessed with a state that has moderate weather year round. :D

Well I ended up getting the oil, I received the filter today. I think what I am going to do is run it as is this season. If I hit 5000 miles this summer which is very unlikely I will change it. If not I will change it in the fall per the experts advise. This oil looks like the day I dumped it in there . I know it has 2000 miles on it. Probably be a year old in June. I’m going to sell my Harley so I might get more use out of the car. I have to many toys and not enough time . See how the summer goes. Got my first shot a week ago hopefully we are all on our way to putting this flue business behind us

Last time...
 

....I said,”The Oil Itself Does NOT go bad..”

I know oil is not hydroscopic.

The water that condenses in the sump does not get absorbed by the oil. It just mixes with the oil on startup. And it dilutes the oil as it is pumped throughout your engine. This lowers the oil’s ability to lubricate and float your rods and such on a film of nice, strong, oil.

Also, water is a corrosive force as it is pumped through your engine.

Remember that these cars have variable valve timing. Your engine oil isn’t just a lubricant, but it acts as a hydraulic fluid as well, activating the variable valve timing and pumping up your cam chain tensioners. Having water pumped through those TINY orifices acts like a cutting agent to the parts.

Look at a photo of the cam phaser. Look at how tiny that hole is that the oil gets pumped through to change the valve timing. Now imagine a bit of water, not much, getting pumped in there instead of oil.

The right oil, in the right place, at the right time. That is lubrication.

Displace a bit of oil with water and you lose that lubrication.

So, drive the car.

And change your oil every six months.

Ok. NOW I’m done.

Good luck.

But seriously, drive more. 😁

Up here it ain’t just the salt. In fact little salt is used here since it doesn’t work when it’s 20C below. The issue is driving down a road with 6 inch ridges of packed ice in a car with only 4 inches of clearance. The ideal winter vehicle of choice up here is a raised F-150 4X4 with 400 lbs of sand in the back. So, my Boxster goes to bed with fresh oil in late October and wakes up in early April. And she loves me for that. My wife has an Escape we use 90% of the time in winter and I have a beater Fusion I use if needed.

you realize I hope, that the oil and fuel in the oil boil off when you drive it right? If you did a used oil analysis, you'd realize that the amount of water and fuel in a car with no mechanical issues is very minimal.

Wow...
 

....so you guys apparently do not read my posts.

See that part where I said,”..on START UP.”

Yes, the water burns off, but not instantly.

ON START UP, when your parts are dry, you are pumping this water diluted oil throughout your engine.

The water displaces the oil from the bearings and acts as a cutting agent against the internal parts, and prevents not only proper wear protection from a solid oil film, but also prevents the cam chain tensioners from acting quickly.

You ever get a lot of chain noise on cold starts?

But fine, save yourself the $100 bucks.

Again, oil is cheap, engines are expensive.

You bought a freaking Porsche. Spend the money for proper maintenance.

Out.

We do read your posts. This is what you said:

Oil just sitting in the sump, with the car never started, collects water from condensation every morning. It’s not that the oil itself goes bad, it’s that it collects water and will creat sludge and corrosion.

I replied to this statement when I said it`s a complete waste to change oil in a car that did not run for six months and it`s bad for the environment.

Oil does not collect water from condensation every morning because it`s a closed system. If you pour fresh oil into an engine, never start it up, then you drain the oil, it`s exactly the same you had poured in it before.

As for oil-water mixture pumping through the engine: even in an engine that runs every day the water accumulation in engine oil is negligible. Some water from air may get into the cylinders after passing the air filter or the kats but will evaporate instantly once the combustion turns on. Water originating from burnt fuel will leave the engine through the exhaust. If ANY water gets into the sump it will sink down to the bottom of the sump as being heavier than oil and won`t get picked up. Oil does not mix with water. If water got trapped in the sump, it will evaporate, then get back to the engine with the crankcase gasses and the engine burns it. If any water accumulated in the sump you should see that fraction first coming off when you change oil. I`ve never seen anything like that even in engines where oil had not been changed for years.

Like I said, I don`t mind spending money on my car if it`s reasonable. But changing oil every half a year because water displaces oil and cuts internal parts does not seem very reasonable to me. Especially if the car was not turned on.

bingo.

You are not getting quarts of water in the oil from condensation. Every year...fine. every 6 months...nah.

I....
 

....never said, “quarts” of water.

But fine, let’s say my explanation is exaggerating the danger.

I will end with this thought, how is it any cheaper in your time and money to drain a little bit of oil, or suck it out the dip stick tube, and then mail it off and get it analyzed, instead of just changing the oil?

Now I’m truly done.