Hello all, time for another frustrating update.

So, I replaced the spark plug tubes. This made no change (well, no more oil on the valve covers) but after two test drives, no P1126, fuel economy seems to have returned but the car just feels "slow" overall and the induction noise is muted. It just doesn't sound or feel 100%. Additionally, I found two threads that mentioned the contacts within the electronic throttle control on the throttle body can be misaligned and for someone, this was causing their 986 to run rich at idle. I opened it up, cleaned up the electrical contacts, but overall it looked healthy and clean. Simultaneously, I also purchased a new electronic change-over valve for the resonator flap. I got a little encouraged when I found the rubber vacuum boot attached to the old change-over valve was stiff and looked tired. I replaced it with new rubber vacuum hose. All of this resulted in no change to engine operation and after about 120 miles of test drives, P1126 returned and this time with a P0107. I had this code briefly a few months back, but I didn't have my battery tender at the time and the car had been sitting, so I assumed it was related to low voltage, reset the code and continued troubleshooting. This is the first time it has returned.

According to the Bentley manual, P0107 isn't listed for DME 7.2 but Durametric reported it with the same verbiage as listed that in the Bentley manual for DME 5.2.2.

https://i.imgur.com/jFHCYoD.jpg

I've read a couple of posts on P0107 and the MAP sensor is internal to the DME, so it seems the advice goes one of three ways:
a. Reset code and see
b. A bad MAF might be the culprit
c. Replace the DME

Anyone have any experience with P0107 and P1126? My MAF data makes it appear the MAF is functioning properly. Is it possible it's an intermittent failure with the MAF? Any help or ideas will be much appreciated! Thanks.

P0107 Ambient Pressure Sensor – Below Limit

Possible causes:
- Short circuit to ground

The ambient pressure sensor measures the air pressure.
The ambient pressure sensor is incorporated in the DME control module.

Hi JFP, thank you for the reply. I did see something like this in one of the posts while I was searching.

From what I understand, the proper way to diagnose this would be to check for voltage and ground at the appropriate pins in the harness to the ECU and if that's good, then to look for the MAP output in Durametric? My problem is I'm not seeing anything labeled ambient pressure sensor in the wiring diagrams for the DME 7.2 in the Bentley manual. I see a "Sensor, Differentiale E12/E11", but it looks to be external of the ME and feeds to the two Camshaft Sensors. I also don't recall seeing a PID for MAP in Durametric.

Does anyone have troubleshooting procedures or pictures, or even past experiences to help me dig into P0107? Also wondering if this can be causing P1126? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Hello all! I think I have some positive news. I want to thank each and every person who chimed in with ideas and helped me through this. I pulled a few posts that I'll quote below, and then get on with what's new!

Post #3
Post #10

Post #31

Post #57

Post #53

OK, so the one thing I have not done since replacing the fuel injectors (first BIG change) was unplug the MAF and see what happens. I know, major oversight on my part in retrospect, right?

I found 3 posts of people with P0107 & P1126 at the same time. In all three cases, a new MAF ended up being the fix. So, I unplugged the MAF this morning. Bank 1 & 2 RKAT 0.0 and FRA 0.99 (I don't think they adapt without a MAF) and O2 sensors looking good the whole test drive, she drove like a bat out of hell and wailed like a banshee the way I remembered. Intake funkiness on throttle is gone and oddly enough, some top end noises (valves, chains?) that had me guessing disappeared as well. I've got a new MAF on order and it'll be here Saturday.

So, what I *think* happened was a combination of things. I think I had a leaking bottom o-ring and/or fouling on one of the Bank 1 fuel injectors, because all of the sputtering and intake back firing ceased after they were replaced. I also think I had a failed MAF due to the K&N air filter that I had been meaning to replace but didn't until I had issues. The bad injector had the car sputtering and popping and the bad MAF had us chasing our tail on rich at idle.

I unplugged the MAF before changing the fuel injectors, so I didn't get any change because of injector issues and after changing the injectors, because my MAF appeared to be functioning in Durametric, I never took it back out of the loop.

I will report back on Saturday after I drive it and capture data with the new MAF in, but I'm cautiously optimistic. Regarding the P0107, the ambient pressure sensor is reporting 1010 hPa in Durametric, which corresponds with 1 bar, so that looks to be functioning properly. Right now, the car has codes P0102 and a code for intake air temperature sensor (both are MAF codes, as expected). At the end of the day, I think the only parts changed prematurely may have been the upstream Bosch O2 sensors, but at like $40 each, I will not be complaining!!!

A very sincere thank you again to all of you!!

If you're ever in the lake cumberland area I owe ya a beer!

Congrats on (hopefully) getting it figured out. Let us know what happens!

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Hey Ike! Haha, if I'm ever in the Lake Cumberland area, I OWE YOU A BEER!

Will post update as soon as the new MAF is in!

My understanding of unplugging the MAF sensor is that the DME reverts to a default fuel map in open loop mode so there is no closed loop type fuel correction.
Also this default fuel map is on the rich side so if you have a vacuum leak and you unplug the MAF the car tends to run very well. Not to say your issue is not MAF related could very well be. Will be interesting to hear the outcome after you install the new MAF. I hope you ordered a Bosch MAF these cars don't seem to do well on after market MAF sensors.
Also if your running a K&N filter that is the oil type they destroy MAF sensors;)

Hey blue62! Yes, I agree, although I'm not sure it's running rich, as the RKAT is 0.0 and the FRA .99 and STFT look like they're operating properly going +/- 5% throughout the test drive. I'm really hoping it's the MAF as the negative RKAT values (rich at idle) just don't make sense and I have taken each vacuum hose off of the reservoir and tested with my hand pump and they've passed. I've still yet to fully test the EVAP system (vacuum etc) but the Evap Valve under the bank 2 air intake appears to be functioning properly. Beyond that though, no testing has been completed on fuel canister/hoses etc. I'll post as soon as I get the new MAF in and a test drive/data.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, yes, it's the Bosch replacement MAF and the K&N filter is in a landfill somewhere these days. Replaced with OEM air filter.

Ok, I think I'm going to call this the end for now. I installed the new MAF sensor and took a test drive. Wow, what a difference, driving much better than without the MAF. I did not reset the codes (P0102 and P0112, both for MAF) as I was thinking they'll reset themselves after a couple of drive cycles like other codes. Is this true for the MAF codes or should I just reset them?

I took some data samples as well. Bank 1 RKAT is -0.17 & FRA is 1.00. Bank 2 RKAT is -0.20 and FRA is also 1.00. O2 sensors all looked like they were doing their thing! Very excited, but I only did roughly 20 mile test drive tonight because:

https://i.imgur.com/3oQh5N3.jpg

Out of the frying pan and into the fire HAHA It doesn't look like it's been leaking for long, and it is a very small leak. I got my borescope out and I think it's a crack in the tank at the usual spot underneath:

https://i.imgur.com/q8akGf3.jpg

Sorry about the poor focus but it's essentially a point-and-shoot 1080p borescope. Tank, cap & sending unit are ordered and should be arriving mid-week, so I guess that's the next project for now. Once that's replaced, I'll put some miles on the car with the new MAF and verify I do not get the codes back. I'll post back after a few hundred miles. Thanks all for all of the help!

Damn brother, you can't catch a break!

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Haha it sure felt that way when I saw those 2 tell-tale little droplets of coolant behind my passenger rear tire! At least it's one more project completed out of the 101 Projects book! :)

I would clean it all up and let it dry out and then check to see if it's still leaking. You could have had too much in there and this from overfill...but that should have gone out of the car, not in the trunk. I have seen much worse with a bad coolant tank. Could also be a bad coolant cap. Once it's all cleaned up and dry you can just start the car and then watch to see if it leaks again.

Hey, thanks for the reply! Well , the weirdness I found with my borescope and the fact that it's pretty well discolored, I think I'm just going to replace it, but I take the point. Maybe I'll take the car out tomorrow and see if it continues to leak in there. Thanks again!

Well, another 20 miles on the new MAF and the CEL has gone out, Bank 1 RKAT is at -0.05 and Bank 2 RKAT is -0.12. Banks 1 & 2 FRA are 0.98 and 0.99 respectively. The P0102 and P0112 are still saved as fault codes but CEL is out, so working as intended I think.

Follow-up to Stl-986, cleaned it up, dried it out and no drips after this last test drive. Tank just arrived, so I'm probably just going to do the swap, but thanks for the insight/advice!

Just a brief follow-up on the expansion tank, the new one is in. It was just a matter of time before this one let go, probably at some inopportune time whilst on vacation.

https://i.imgur.com/BXJxF4F.jpg

Just to follow up and close this out, 250 more miles and no codes or lights and the car feels amazing again. Thanks to everyone for their help with this.

Great job fan! Thanks for the updates!

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