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Old 01-11-2021, 02:45 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Zzorro View Post
CLU = Central locking unit = Immobilizer. To troubleshoot the convertable top electronics have a look at that YouTube video I sent. That diagnostic sheet he references is a full diagnosis.
That was a good video only problem is that my 2000 top relay is different than the 1998 that he showed but I appreciate it.

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Old 01-11-2021, 02:47 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
That same connection that goes to the top relay from the switch also connects to the CLU connector 1, pin 18. You can check it for continuity and/or +12v. Once you have done that advance to the next question.

The top relay diagram:


Where it goes on the top relay plug:


To the CLU...


what it look like on the CLU plug:
I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks
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Old 01-11-2021, 02:52 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mtb50 View Post
I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks
NOTE: If you turn the key to the on position with the seat wire harness disconnected, it will cause the airbag caution light to come on and it will need to be reset with a capable diagnostic tool/scanner.
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Old 01-11-2021, 03:43 PM   #24
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I had the seat out today and the fuse is ok. tomorrow I'll do what you showed here and get back to you. Thanks
As you have pointed to me the relay plug 11 is not hot no 12v. Only one I found hot was 23 witch I thank would explain the power top to work. I'll check the clu 18 when i have more time. Thanks for your time.
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Old 01-11-2021, 04:08 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by mtb50 View Post
... I'll check the clu 18 when i have more time. Thanks for your time.
As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=web
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Old 01-11-2021, 04:23 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=web
I'll test continuity tomorrow. I'm not clear on what module pin will be 12v
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Old 01-12-2021, 06:52 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
As pictured with the blue connector, you can check continuity, but the +12v will be on the module pin, not the connector.

I would test continuity from the window switch to the CLU connector (18).
If that is good and the car runs (if it runs the CLU is powered and at least partially functioning), then the problem is internal in the CLU.

Often the CLUs are damaged by water intrusion. It may be visible, or it may not be. Mild corrosion can often be cleaned to restore function. You can find lots of past discussion of the issues. Most of those posts will call it the immobilizer rather than CLU.

Here's an example of how I'd search: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=site%3A986forum.com+immobilizer+wet&ia=web
The continuity is good from window switch to CLU connector 18. Car starts and runs OK. I'm not showing 12 v at pin 11 on relay.
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Old 01-12-2021, 07:58 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mtb50 View Post
The continuity is good from window switch to CLU connector 18. Car starts and runs OK. I'm not showing 12 v at pin 11 on relay.
That isolates the problem to within the CLU module.
I'll grab a picture of the CLU from somewhere and post more... Then I'm doing a timing belt and water pump replacement on my Toyota Sequoia for the rest of the day and not playing with Boxsters.
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Old 01-12-2021, 08:29 AM   #29
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Here's a badly corroded CLU. This one is not repairable, but yours is in much better shape if the car still runs. It is easy to remove and open up to see the circuit board. There are two forum members that professionally repair these things ECU Doctors and Qmulus.



You may be able to get yours working by cleaning corrosion, or it may need to be repaired/replaced. I suspect that you have a stuck relay on your circuit board. It's possible that you can free it up by gently tapping on the little black cubed shaped things (TYCO) on the circuit board. My preferred tool for tapping on relays is the handle of a #2 Phillips screwdriver. YMMV and if a relay is stuck now it will probably stick again.

That's all I've got for today, but the rest of the forum is standing by to assist. Good luck.
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Old 01-12-2021, 09:56 AM   #30
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Someone sent you on a wild goose chase.

I’ve been watching your posts. If you want to fix your window problem, start at the immobilizer. Best of luck.
Your were definitely right about starting at the CLU. 78F350 has been a lot of help as well I've cleaned the board with alcohol and will see what happens Thanks
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Old 01-12-2021, 11:28 AM   #31
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Guy`s I don`t want to sidetrack this thread, but I`m looking for a used convertible top relay that works on a 2001 Boxster to modify so it works as smart top relay. If you have one sitting around that you don`t need and want to sell it, let me know the price. Sorry for side tracking the thread
I have an ad on the classifieds section that you can respond to if you have one for sale or know someone that has one for sale, thank you.
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Old 01-13-2021, 02:42 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 78F350 View Post
Here's a badly corroded CLU. This one is not repairable, but yours is in much better shape if the car still runs. It is easy to remove and open up to see the circuit board. There are two forum members that professionally repair these things ECU Doctors and Qmulus.



You may be able to get yours working by cleaning corrosion, or it may need to be repaired/replaced. I suspect that you have a stuck relay on your circuit board. It's possible that you can free it up by gently tapping on the little black cubed shaped things (TYCO) on the circuit board. My preferred tool for tapping on relays is the handle of a #2 Phillips screwdriver. YMMV and if a relay is stuck now it will probably stick again.

That's all I've got for today, but the rest of the forum is standing by to assist. Good luck.
I'm new to this forum and not having any luck on getting in touch with ECU doctors or QMULUS. I reallly would appreciate it.


Last edited by mtb50; 01-14-2021 at 04:04 AM.
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