Your codes are showing that three of the four sensors are having issues.
I would replace all four with Bosch.
Then You have a solid foundation to work from.
An O2sensor and its wiring can be tested with a simple Digital Multi Meter.
Or the signal can be viewed with your Durametric.
If you switch the senor around looking to see if the code follows you have to move
two sensors then take the car for a drive sometimes multiple drives before the code shows up.
Senseless... when you can test them with a multi meter or Durametric in just a few minutes.

You must like spending my money lol! All 4 arrive friday.

Not true
I don't like to waste money.
Trying to help you not waste yours.:)
Trying to point out better ways of diagnosing issues.;)

Buy quality parts that way you don't buy twice.
In a situation like yours three sensors are throwing codes and the other has 75 thousand miles on it. Buy all four and order once if you getting them on line. Or go to the parts store once to purchase them locally. Saves on shipping or gas which ever way your purchasing them.
It also gives you a solid foundation to start diagnostics of your O2senor codes from.

If you purchase something like a scanner be it a durametric or a foxwell or an oscilliscope like a Pico. Or even just a multi meter learn to use it to it's full potential.To do other wise is wasting money time, and effort in your diagnostic process.

If your into what makes things tick learn the best diagnostic procedure you can.
Then keep improving on that procedure the rest of your life.
Those are just a few of the things I try to do;)

I was kidding on wasting my money. Generally I'm a buy once cry once kind of guy.

I do have a durametric and a multimeter.

With the Durametric and your multi meter you can test any electrical component on the car.
Back probing or wire piercing are two methods used when using the multi meter.
Look into those two methods. You can buy back probes and wire piercers to use with your multi meter.
Check out scannerdanner on youtube he shows how to test and diagnose just about any electical issue on a car. He does some very good videos..He will up your diagnostic ability greatly.
Keep us posted on your O2 code issue.

I'll definitely look him up.

Thanks for the tips!

Once you get your new O2sensors installed.
Find his videos on diagnosing O2sensors.
You will see him viewing the signal of the sensors and how to test them using those signals and what to look for.
I think he uses a snap-on or pico oscilloscope but you can do the same thing with your.
Durametric.
Or contact me via this thread or a pm and I will describe how to use the durametric to test your O2 sensors for you.;)

I'll be watching those vids in the next week or so.

I did get new anchors installed for my MaxJax and got the car on the lift yesterday. Replaced the fuel filter and took it for a spin. No issues other than the still hunting idle. CEL still all pointing at the O2 sensors.

P0131

P0151

P0137

P0157

We replaced the O2 sensors ahead of the Cat with Bosch so I'll need to recheck their connections. I may try to replace the post Cat O2 sensors this afternoon if I feel up to it. Would love to just eliminate the cats and O2 sensors lol! Don't want the forever CEL light though.

So far so good. Replaced all 4 O2 sensors with Bosch and it started idling smoother, and at a higher RPM of ~900. Cleared the codes, took it for a 20-30 minute drive and no codes came back whereas before when I'd clear them I'd get pending codes almost immediately.

Think I'll reset my fuel trims tomorrow and see how it starts doing. So nice to take it out on a drive on a beautiful evening here in Central Fl.

Took her out for the first "real" drive about 30-35 minutes away and back. No issues, still no codes or pending codes. Started up warm without issue. Finger's crossed that I've finally tackled the engine issues that have been persistent since I purchased it. If so, I can finally turn attention to the suspension.

Sounds like things are improving...:)

Most definitely!

Gotta love these cars. Got home from a drive last week and coolant was gushing out in the center of the car. Got it on the lift today and it's coming straight from the bottom of the water pump. I'm sure this is the original and it was on my list to replace, but not until this winter. Ah well.

Water pump kit(with low temp thermo) is coming from LN Engineering and coolant from Suncoast. Slowly but surely knocking out all of the deferred maintenance whether I want to or not lol! In any case, this is a pretty big item off the list. Should be able to start moving towards replacing suspension next.

Ordered the water pump replacement kit from LN Engineering and it arrived last night. Still waiting on the anti-freeze but I will get started on pulling the old pump out this afternoon and hopefully get the new one in as well.

Definitely the WP. It was a pump with a plastic impeller so unfortunately who knows what went where. All of the vanes were impacted and all but two were almost completely gone. In addition, the pump had a fair amount of resistance when turning by hand. Resting up and will tackle reassembly in a little bit.

I know that JFP in PA has posted in a couple threads about how to flush the engine to get any residual pieces out. It is possible for them to block coolant passages and create problems if they remain.

Note for reassembly: The two bolts that are longer go in the holes with the dowel pins. Use a coated metal gasket (probably included) and no sealant. Torque 10 nm/7 ftlbs

Yep! Thank you for the backup just in case. Just buttoned the whole thing back up but will follow up with JFP to be safe. Worst case I have to order new gaskets or something.