2001 Boxster Camshaft issues

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

I cleared the codes, there are no codes currently. what happens is i clear the codes and drive the car with its lumpy idle, and it may or may not stall in drive at a red light or stop and when the idle drops really low the check engine light comes on, i bring it home and I get the p1341 code. As of yesterday when I ran the engine the camshaft deviations were at 0, maybe I need to drive it for those to register.

the car runs good at 1,000 rpm and above

Take the car on a good 20-30 minute drive so everything is evenly warmed up then take the Camshaft deviation readings. Let us know what they are.
If the P1341 code does not come back then the timing issue is most likely resolved.
If you get the P1341 code again and Cam deviation is out of range then you still have a timing issue.
If the Camshaft deviations are good and no return of the P1341 code then you need to start looking at the lumpy idle issue.
Could be a MAF issue or vacuum leak issue. Looking at O2sensor signals and short and long term fuel trims are a means to tell if it is a vacuum leak or a bad MAF.

Go to Youtube and look up ScannerDanner find his videos on identifying Vacuum leaks using fuel trims. also his vids on MAF sensors. From those vids you will see how to use your Durametric to test to see if you have a vacuum leak or a bad MAF. Seeing him do it will be better then me trying to explain it.

There a number of various valves and hoses along with carbon canister and vacuum canister under vacuum in both the Secondary Air Injection system and the Evap system. From the way you describe your lumpy idle issue (as if the issue is being triggered after warmup). My guess is your problem is in the Evap system or Secondary Air Injection system. Vacuum leaks often don't happen in those systems until a valve is actuated then the vacuum leak occurs. (Sounds like your issue). Because of this Vacuum leaks in these systems can be hard to find because thy don't always show up with something like a smoke test. So you have to go over each system step by step. Part by part.

Hope this is of some help.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

Take the car on a good 20-30 minute drive so everything is evenly warmed up then take the Camshaft deviation readings. Let us know what they are.
If the P1341 code does not come back then the timing issue is most likely resolved.
If you get the P1341 code again and Cam deviation is out of range then you still have a timing issue.
If the Camshaft deviations are good and no return of the P1341 code then you need to start looking at the lumpy idle issue.
Could be a MAF issue or vacuum leak issue. Looking at O2sensor signals and short and long term fuel trims are a means to tell if it is a vacuum leak or a bad MAF.

Go to Youtube and look up ScannerDanner find his videos on identifying Vacuum leaks using fuel trims. also his vids on MAF sensors. From those vids you will see how to use your Durametric to test to see if you have a vacuum leak or a bad MAF. Seeing him do it will be better then me trying to explain it.

There a number of various valves and hoses along with carbon canister and vacuum canister under vacuum in both the Secondary Air Injection system and the Evap system. From the way you describe your lumpy idle issue (as if the issue is being triggered after warmup). My guess is your problem is in the Evap system or Secondary Air Injection system. Vacuum leaks often don't happen in those systems until a valve is actuated then the vacuum leak occurs. (Sounds like your issue). Because of this Vacuum leaks in these systems can be hard to find because thy don't always show up with something like a smoke test. So you have to go over each system step by step. Part by part.

Hope this is of some help.

I just took the car on a drive, it still idles like absolute trash and stalls at some red lights I got the camshaft deviations, position 1 is 14.25 and position 2 is -6.19.

I don't know if this is related but ever since I got the car not only its fuel economy is absolutely horrendous, every time i put gas in it it doesn't want to start right after at the fuel station and I have to floor it while finessing it to get it to run, after its fine though.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

I just took the car on a drive, it still idles like absolute trash and stalls at some red lights I got the camshaft deviations, position 1 is 14.25 and position 2 is -6.19.

I don't know if this is related but ever since I got the car not only its fuel economy is absolutely horrendous, every time i put gas in it it doesn't want to start right after at the fuel station and I have to floor it while finessing it to get it to run, after its fine though.

So the not starting when you refill points to an issue with the EVAP system.
Now that I have that information I believe your lumpy idle is also related to an issue with the EVAP system.

Not sure of the exact layout but there should be a main vacuum hose to the EVAP system connected to your intake.
Find that main hose then pinch it off and see if your lumpy idle changes. you can also hook up your Durametric and watch your fuel trims and O2 signals. If you have a vacuum leak in the EVAP system you will be showing positive fuel trims and low voltage from your O2 sensors. When you pinch off the hose your fuel trims will change as well as your O2 signals. O2 voltage will start to increase and then switch normally. fuel trims will slowly come down.
If there does prove to be an issue with the EVAP system start with the purge valve and work from there.

Your Camshaft deviation is also still an issue sorry to say.
My guess is that much deviation is directly related to the poor fuel economy.
fuel trims on bank 1 are probably always at near max positive no matter the RPM range.
Just a guess on my part concerning fuel economy.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

So the not starting when you refill points to an issue with the EVAP system.
Now that I have that information I believe your lumpy idle is also related to an issue with the EVAP system.

Not sure of the exact layout but there should be a main vacuum hose to the EVAP system connected to your intake.
Find that main hose then pinch it off and see if your lumpy idle changes. you can also hook up your Durametric and watch your fuel trims and O2 signals. If you have a vacuum leak in the EVAP system you will be showing positive fuel trims and low voltage from your O2 sensors. When you pinch off the hose your fuel trims will change as well as your O2 signals. O2 voltage will start to increase and then switch normally. fuel trims will slowly come down.
If there does prove to be an issue with the EVAP system start with the purge valve and work from there.

Your Camshaft deviation is also still an issue sorry to say.
My guess is that much deviation is directly related to the poor fuel economy.
fuel trims on bank 1 are probably always at near max positive no matter the RPM range.
Just a guess on my part concerning fuel economy.

welp. I tried to put a clamp on the evap hose and I tried clamping numerous hoses and the car didn't care. Runs lumpy and barely struggles to stay running, If i disconnected a vacuum line it just stalls. smells extremely rich upon startup, For the camshaft deviation ill probably just fiddle a teeny bit with the timing, not that hard. but for the lumpy terrible idle I have no idea whats causing it or how to fix it. is my camshaft deviation enough to cause this? I don't know. I assume the car not starting after putting fuel is its own isolated issue with the evap system. I am going to purchase a smoke kit to overall see if there are any big vacuum leaks that are causing this. I checked the codes, cylinder 1 2 and 3 missfire along with the p1341... how weird....

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

welp. I tried to put a clamp on the evap hose and I tried clamping numerous hoses and the car didn't care. Runs lumpy and barely struggles to stay running, If i disconnected a vacuum line it just stalls. smells extremely rich upon startup, For the camshaft deviation ill probably just fiddle a teeny bit with the timing, not that hard. but for the lumpy terrible idle I have no idea whats causing it or how to fix it. is my camshaft deviation enough to cause this? I don't know. I assume the car not starting after putting fuel is its own isolated issue with the evap system. I am going to purchase a smoke kit to overall see if there are any big vacuum leaks that are causing this. I checked the codes, cylinder 1 2 and 3 missfire along with the p1341... how weird....

Your lumpy idle is most likely caused by a combination of the Camshaft deviation range and an issue with the EVAP system.
The missfires are due to the Camshaft Deviation being so far out of spec.

As to the Camshaft Deviation I would try to fix that first. Seems like you are a tooth off or a link off in your set up.
Your actuators for the Variocam system seem to be working ok now as when you rev to 3000 RPM you get a change of 25 degrees of actual cam angle. So that is right on spec.
So it is a timing issue, not an actuator issue.
I would Concentrate on getting the Camshaft deviation correct on bank 1. because you have The Camshaft Deviation numbers to view that tell you if it is fixed or not.
Then the other issues will be easier to find and correct.

Yes the issue with not starting after refill is caused by a problem with the EVAP system. I believe your EVAP issue is also "part" of your lumpy idle issue.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

Your lumpy idle is most likely caused by a combination of the Camshaft deviation range and an issue with the EVAP system.
The missfires are due to the Camshaft Deviation being so far out of spec.

As to the Camshaft Deviation I would try to fix that first. Seems like you are a tooth off or a link off in your set up.
Your actuators for the Variocam system seem to be working ok now as when you rev to 3000 RPM you get a change of 25 degrees of actual cam angle. So that is right on spec.
So it is a timing issue, not an actuator issue.
I would Concentrate on getting the Camshaft deviation correct on bank 1. because you have The Camshaft Deviation numbers to view that tell you if it is fixed or not.
Then the other issues will be easier to find and correct.

Yes the issue with not starting after refill is caused by a problem with the EVAP system. I believe your EVAP issue is also "part" of your lumpy idle issue.

this is going to sound stupid but I went and the ims locking tool fit really good on the notch in the cam so I dont really know how the timing could be that far off... nevertheless it clearly is, should i adjust the camshaft a little bit clockwise or counter clockwise based on my current deviations to correct it?

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

this is going to sound stupid but I went and the ims locking tool fit really good on the notch in the cam so I dont really know how the timing could be that far off... nevertheless it clearly is, should i adjust the camshaft a little bit clockwise or counter clockwise based on my current deviations to correct it?

How many chain links do you have between timing marks on the two camshafts?

Go to the thread titled " Vario cam issues" on post 48 on the second page you will see a picture of the cams. If you look close you will see the timing mark on each cam and you will be able to count six links between the timing marks.

Are you positive there are six links between cam timing marks?????

A link off is all I can think to be your issue as everything else seems ok.

If your tool just locks into one cam the only way you know the other cam is right is to have the proper number of chain links between them.