CV Boot replacement

[Cunningr]

When changing the CV boots anything else worth refreshing?

[rexcramer]

I like them. I remember using a similar product on VW's years ago. I tried looking for a Porsche equivalent to no avail. Long term solution no, short term definitely.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Cunningr

When changing the CV boots anything else worth refreshing?

Just remember to clean very well the treads of the bolts and use a dab of Locktite blue to keep them in place

PS: when you remove the bolts you have to clean the head and ensure that the tool (6mm ..?) goes all the way in and it is in good shape to avoid damaging the sockets of the bolts
.

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Just remember to clean very well the treads of the bolts and use a dab of Locktite blue to keep them in place

PS: when you remove the bolts you have to clean the head and ensure that the tool (6mm ..?) goes all the way in and it is in good shape to avoid damaging the sockets of the bolts
.

if you replace the boots, yep you're pulling the axles and packing the joints with new grease. Lining things up isnt hard, removing exhaust can be hard, have a torch handy to cook off bolts and have replacement hardware.
A critical thing here is the 6mm bolts to the transmission. You need 6 per side, they need to be clean, the holes and the transmission threads need to be clean and you must use loctite and torque them, (29 ft/lb?) otherwise they will come loose, guaranteed. I would also recommend you replace the bolts, they do tend to strip if you dont set your tool well. You will need a long, very strong breaker bar for the axlenut also, pus some copper anti seize to grease the splines. There is advice in other posts for reaching the 340 Ft/lb for the axle nut. It is going to take 1.5 hours per side if you hump. :+)