Ignition switch?
 

Over the last several weeks, I've had difficulty putting my key in the ignition. After several tries, it goes in. Yesterday, while backing out of my driveway, my AC cut out. I stopped, pulled the key out to check what happened. When I removed the key, none of the lights on my dash shut off and the radio wouldn't turn off and when I opened my door the chimes went off. After 5 minutes, no change. Put the key back in tried to move it farther to the left, but it felt "mushy" and no change in status with anything turning off. I ultimately disconnected the battery. After reading the forum and 101 Projects, it appears my problems are with the ignition switch.

Is this a correct diagnosis?

Now for the really stupid question: If I replace the ignition switch, will my current key still work or do I need to get a new key cut? Please advise.

Thanks,

Fred in N.E. Florida

Hey Fred. It sure sounds like the ignition switch. Luckily, it's a cheap part and if you're nimble enough (to get under the dash) it's an easy DIY. There are plenty of posts in here on how to do it.

The other good news is that the switch is only the electrical part, not the tumblers.
So you can continue to use your key.

P.S. There's an original version and an updated version. Make sure you get the right one. Search this forum. You'll find a lot of good info.

Hey, Pipe!

What's the diff between the original and updated versions? Thanks! :cheers:

So there's the original lock assemblies numbered 996 347 017 05 or # 996 347 017 06, and there's the updated lock assembly 996-347-017-07. There's ignition switches for both the original and updated lock assemblies. They are not interchangeable.

Apparently there have been problems with the original lock assemblies and many cars, like mine, had been refitted with the updated lock assembly. I found this out when I ordered a switch for the original lock assembly, but it wouldn't fit because the key was clocked differently.

The good news is that usually the original ignition switches are all black, and the switches for the updated lock assemblies are black and white. Otherwise it's very hard to tell them apart.

So, to be certain which lock assembly you have, you'd have to check the numbers on it. Or, you can have reasonable certainty by pulling your ignition switch and checking the color. IIRC, I don't think you can check the color without pulling it, but I may be wrong.

Noted! Thanks! :cheers:

I get the cheap part, easy, not so much. Mine has loctite on it. Dug most of that out. My problem is that I can’t get a screwdriver in there and be able to put enough torque on it to get the set screw to turn going to search for a 90degree small screw driver and see if that helps. Any suggestions on a better plan?

Did you remove the air vent... going in from the side instead of from under?

I can't remember what I used. Try a driver bit in a 1/4" socket and a 1/4" ratchet. Or maybe just the bit and the socket without the ratchet. The socket's diameter may be enough to give you the torque you need. Tip: if you use the bit in the socket, tape them together so the bit doesn't fall out and make you waste tons of time searching for it.

There's posts here showing screwdrivers people have been successful with. This was a real PITA and took me a lot of time over sever days an hour here and there. But, I am not flexible at all and ended up having my son get it done. Many say it's an easy job. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice.

After finding a flat head driver narrow enough to fit in the fasteners , I discovered it was too thick to fit in the slot. Took the bit to my belt sander, wore it down a bit, tried again, and the fasteners backed out effortlessly. additionally, I removed the corner piece of the dash and the vent piece, which gave me much more light to see up in there.
Is the word PORSCHE, German for "way harder than it needs to be?"