Windows locks not working
 

Had some water get in to my 2001 Boxster

The Windows gonup and down when I close the door.

-switch is working well (tested)
-removed, cleaned,dried the immobilizer
-radio never worked since I bought the cat
-locks do not work
-key fob does not work
Fuses are good including the one in the immobilizer.

Is there a way to rule out the immobilizer?
Anything else I can do?

Thank you

I am not sure what you mean by 'window locks'? Do you mean buttons?

The windows work when you open the door , they go down an inch. But when you press the window button they do not react at all. I tested the switch and it looks good.

The door locks dont work with the button.

The key fob does not work.

I had the same symptom when I bought mine. The problem was the immobilizer that had gotten wet when the previous owner had it.

Take out your immobilizer, open it up and check for any corrosion on the board.

My guess is you still have issues related to the immobilizer getting wet. The fact that both of your windows drop on opening is a good thing. The chances of both of your windows not working at the same time are remote at best. Then add in your key fob not working at the same time.

If you have a multi-meter and experience, you need to start tracing circuits. There is a plug from the door to the A-pillar. My driver side plug got water in it and caused several issues/problems. Mostly window issues. The locks, window, lights and sound run through that plug. Check and see if it is dry.

We did some testing from the switch back to the immobilizer, it's a bit confusing cause some wires leading to the window motor have a current even though the immobilizer is not plugged in. I guess the immobilizer just sends a signal and not the actual current to activate the window.

We cleaned up the immobilizer with alcohol, we scraped connectors as much as we could. Nothing changed the inside of the door seems dry, but I will keep an eye out for that plug. Z

I am assuming the immobilizer is broken.

1.Can I buy pass this enough so that the windows at least work ?

2 Can I buy some sort of bypass unit

3 can I test the actual parts of the microchip somehow or have some one test it.

4. Is it possible to fix the microchip.

5. Does anyone know where one can purchase a cheap aftermarket or used one

6. Does any one want to buy a 2001 Boxster from Montreal

Thanks guys for all your advice.

Also, i was doing some reading, it says that the ignition switch could cause electrical issues. Do my symptoms reflect that of a 20$ ignition switch?(I think that was the part)

I'm fairly confident it was related to water infiltration as it rained heavily the night before. But I must say, when. Inspecting the immobilizer visually, it looks fine unlike what most the posts say

It looks fine could it be the ignition switch ?

I guess it's possible, but in my case with the exact same symptoms it was the immobilizer.

You believe water infiltration caused it, how much water did you get in? Any puddling at all on the floor?

It's possible you got water on the immobilizer, but it hadn't corroded yet. If it got wet at all, it may still be wet under the relays where you can't see it.

If you suspect it got wet or damp at all, douse it with rubbing alcohol to displace the water and then let it dry out thoroughly.

You might consider talking with this company. They can rehab your unit. ecudoctors.com/pages/porsche

A faulty ignition switch can also cause several issues. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm

Stay with it, don't give up and report back what you find.

Thank you, I already took out the immobilizer, put it in alcohol, dried it out and cleaned the contacts as best I can.

I am Debating taking a heat gun to the microchip. I think this may melt the welds a bit to get a better contact.

I'm a bit worried it may make it worse, maybe the solder will just seperate from the various pins.

If I end up using them, I will let you know how it went. From their site it sounds like it is not the ignition as there are no problems starting. The problems seem isolated to windows locks and radio

It seems like you're pretty comfortable doing that, but I'd be very careful about using a heat gun on it.

I swapped the EEPROM from my damaged one into a replacement unit, but it's not for the feint of heart. There are so many tiny components nearby, and they can easily drift out of alignment from their pads.

I practiced many times on junk boards before I dove in.

To prevent the solder from separating, you can dab some flux on the pins. That should help keep the solder on the pins and pads.


Good luck.

Hmm, how did you know the eeprom was the issue?
Maybe I can just try to apply the heat only to the eeprom with a soldering gun.

In my case the eeprom was not the issue, it was the board itself. I took my eeprom from my bad board and put it onto a good board.

Your immobilizer is faulty. The issue will be (at least partly) in the onboard relays and no amount of alcohol or heat will fix that.
No offense, but it sounds like you know just enough to really destroy your immobilizer. Please don’t use a heat gun on it. :)

You really should send it to a professional or replace the ECU, DME and transponder pill with a matched used set.

Look up Qmulus. He's a member on here that fixes immobilizers for a fraction of the cost of ECU Doctors or the cost of new. The last thing you want to do is apply a soldering iron to the eeprom.

I'd have gone with him, but I'm the type to tinker on my own. But sometimes I end up screwing things up more haha! But in this case I got lucky.

There have to be companies in Montreal that repair car electronics and that can test and replace parts that are defective on your board. I had mine repaired in Ottawa and I bought a new one thinking it wouldn't work so now I have a spare.

I found someone that has the immobilizer from a 2002(mine is 2001).

Now assuming it's compatible what would it take to program it. How much would just programing cost?

He is not sure if it works, is there a way to test it unprogramed ?

Thanks for all the advice.

The dealer would have to program it. Or you can send both units out to ECU Doctors, or Qmulus who can transfer the programming too. I've priced repairs from but ECU and Qmulus, and Qmulus was a fraction of the cost.

Just make sure you have then properly labeled.

Similar problems here. Parked for winter w/ battery Maintainer. Kid unplugged it when he was snow blowing. Battery went dead. I recharged the battery, reconnected to the maintainer. Checks out Good, 12.5v. Locks & Windows don't work.
Windows:
-switches don't work (relays in doors click)
-both inner & outer handles don't work (relays in doors click)
-top retract windows don't move, top retracts/extends normally (relays in doors click)

Locks:
-Key Lock works, locks both doors, but does not activate anti-theft
-dash switch doesn't work
-Fob locking- Locks, Unlocks, Beep Beep

I replaced the Immobilizer last year with one from ECU Doctors and had them make me a spare. The Immobilizer is fine. Fuses C3 & D1 are OK.

FINISHED REPAIRED!!!!

Windows: Corroded Power Supply Wire in Left A-Pillar. Seized Motor in Right Door.

Locks: Replaced w/ ElCheapo $30 VW Latches from Amazon. Part# 3B1837016A -RIGHT DOOR, 3B1837015A - LEFT DOOR. This is ONLY for the '97 Model as it has different latches than other model years. Locks & sets Alarm w/ Key, unlocks deactivates alarm w/ Fob. That's good enough for now.

Update:

Windows are working as advertised. Courtesy Drop & Raise from Key, drop to open doors or top and switches work.
Problems:
Left A-Pillar had the Gray/Red Wire corroded from both terminal Blocks. Rewired, Resealed.
Right Motor was seized. Removed, Lubricated, applied power, works.
Both Regulators are fine. Lubricated and working properly.

Locks are no longer a "big" Issue. They mostly work. Locks only w/ Key in Door, also sets Alarm & Locks Fuel Door. Unlocks and disable Alarm w/ Fob.

Fix:
Cheap Amazon $30 Latches for VW, Audi, Seat, etc. Part# 3B1837016A - RIGHT SIDE, Part# 3B1837015A - LEFT SIDE THIS IS FOR '97 MODEL YEAR ONLY!!! as it has a different latch set than any other year.

It's great that you have found a solution for the lock issues by purchasing cheap latches from Amazon. It's important to note that the part numbers you provided, 3B1837016A for the right side and 3B1837015A for the left side, are specific to the 1997 model year and will not work for other years. It's always good to double-check the part number before purchasing with Stratford locksmith.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm reviving it instead of making a new one.

My car was parked outside for the last week (SE Tennessee) and there were some heavy rains from the Hurricane Helene. When I got back to it, I found that the remote locking/unlocking doesn't work, and gives two immediate beeps when the button is pushed. The rear trunk carpet was wet (not soaked) and a few small puddles under it. The carpet under the driver's seat is also wet. I suspect a drain got clogged or at least overwhelmed.

My car has a history of getting water on that floor a few years ago that killed the immobilizer. I have a set off another car that I got on eBay, and I put the immobilizer in a waterproof box. Drains were all cleaned back then, and the rear driver's side drain also had a leak somewhere in it such that, even when clean, some of the water made its way into the floor somehow. A drain hole was installed in the floorboard as an extra precaution.

Current symptoms:
Windows do not work using the buttons, and do not lower when the roof is lowered/raised.
Windows DO lower as they're supposed to when the doors are openend/closed.
Convertible top works fine.
Doors do not lock/unlock using remote. Pushing the button causes double alarm horn beep.

(I already had the double beep symptom due to the fuel filler door lock not working, but that double beep sounded maybe 10 seconds after locking the doors with the remote. It is now immediately when the button is pushed.)

Just looking for any thoughts before I proceed with anything other than drying the car out.

EDIT: I checked all the fuses related to these issues. What I found is that the C3 fuse was blown. Also, there was a 10a fuse in that spot when the diagram calls for a 15a. I tried replacing the fuse, but it blows the new fuse as soon as contact is made.
Also, I wasn't accurate describing the wetness. It isn't nearly as wet as I said. Nothing more than some dampness, and some condensation on the underside of the rear trunk lid.
Finally, one thing I forgot to mention is that not long ago, I had an issue with the windows. They weren't lowering when the top was raised/lowered, and there was some noise and sticking in the driver's side window when raising/lowering it. Those things all went away after a very short time (only happened on one drive). Now I'm thinking that was just the first symptom of whatever electrical issue is causing this, and it seems likely to be something to do with that driver's side window.