Oil Change Diaster
 

Well, a good friend and my old Battery Commander has the same year Porsche as mine, 2000 Base ( he's the reason I bought mine). Well, we did a oil change on his today, and when he put the drain plug back, he didn't use the metal washer and TORQUED it to death with a Allen wrench. The plug is a cheap Chinese aluminum with a 8mm hex head. When I realized he didn't use the washer, we decided to drain the oil in a clean tub to reuse and use the washer. Guess what is stripped and useless. So, is it possible to remove the plug with a easy out. I didn't want to get to destructive until we had all the needed parts to fix if it comes to that. He is ordering a new oil pan, gasket maker, drain plug and washer. I do not think it will be much of a job dropping the pan and replacing everything that needs to be fixed. Am I being overly optimistic or is it a pretty easy job. Any hints or " try this" would be appreciated.

Search the forum this was discussed last week.

I read that one, was hoping to get the drain plug out. The hex head in the plug is whats stripped. Oil Pan is good ( for now). If I can figure out a way to remove the plug without dropping the pan I would be happy. But I am planning on having to replace the oil pan, gasket, drain plug and washer. He is a good mechanic unless wrenching on his own car. Then he gets to wound up.

Are the OEM drain plus steel or at least Heavy duty. All the aftermarket plugs I have seen look like they are made of tinfoil. Even the new one I purchased to install has me a bit worried. It just feels cheap

The OEM plugs are aluminum.

You may be able to gently tap an M10 triple square wrench in there to get enough grip to get it out.
M10 Triple Square:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1572790408.jpg

The OEM plugs are soft aluminum. That way Arty guys don't crack the pan when they torque them in.

It is written in marker on a parts shelf in my garage:

• Oil Plug - 50 NM (Magnetic/steel Plug - 19 FT)
• Filter - 25 NM
• Wheel Lug 130 NM/93 Ft
• Spark Plug - 30 NM
• Caliper - 63 Ft

Use those 'till you find a better source.

Have you tried using a pair of vice-grips? Grab the edge of the plug... back it out.

I once stripped my plug... but managed to get it out. Promptly went to Auto Zone... dropped a few bucks on a steel plug... haven't had a problem since.

Oh. Never have I torqued my plugs when doing an oil change... on any car ever I've owned. 100% has worked out for me... and never a weep or leak. :cheers:

Thanx, Did you know if you put a ARTY guy in a empty room with only two marbles, tens minutes later one will be broken and the other dented

Tried the vise grips, plug sits to flush to get a decent bite.

So you've been to this place? LOL

https://www.artysautoservice.com/


Actually, I get your gist behind the "Arty guys" comment, but where did it come from?

My very first DIY oil change the previous mechanic had torqued the hell out of the plug. I was able to get it out using a screw extractor and a wrench plus about 6' of pipe slipped over the wrench handle for extra torque. The oil pan itself was fine, and I haven't had any issues since this happened about 30k miles ago.

The OP said, " ...my old Battery Commander " which to me, says he's one of these guys:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1572789552.jpg

They do not do 'finesse' well.

ahh! haha! Thanks!

I'd try the 10mm torx socket first, it that doesn't work, drill it and use an easy out. It would be nice if you don't need to drill all the way thru the drain plug, but if you do, catch the first cup and discard, then catch the rest of the oil.

I was gonna suggest pulling the pan completely before you drill, but that would be just incredibly messy.

I always use a brand new, high quality drill for drilling and extracting. Done a few in the past year.

If I was drilling and therefore getting metal fragments in the oil, I would replace ALL of the oil. I wouldn't rick possible engine damage for less than $100 of oil, Hell if you get M1 at wallyworld, its $50 for 10 quatrts

You're right, of course.

Obviously since it has oil, I'm assuming it's driveable. Why not take to a welding shop and have them see if they can weld a nut on it? Shouldn't cost that much.

I was one of those guys for 26 years. Not a arty piece that I haven't exercised the recoil on. Last one was the M777 in Afghanistan. Used that one ALOT.

I had the same issue once and I also had an aluminum plug, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a flat head chisel. I used to work at a quick lube shop, so I went under the car and hammered the chisel at an ideal angle where it would not break anything but have enough bite to get the plug rotating.

Started doing that, and will probably end up doing it. I just didn't want to get too destructive until we had replacement parts on hand. Did not want his Boxster up on the lift for a week or two while he sources parts. Once a new drain plug, oil pan, gasket material and oil are here. then we can get progressively more aggressive. It is drivable now and will be for a few thousand miles until next oil change is needed.

There is no oil sump gasket, you use a special sealer.

Based on what has happened, I also wouldn't let your friend tighten the bolts that hold the sump on, because he'll strip those, too. Then you have stripped holes in the engine block.

Spreads like a virus.

Use a proper torque wrench. OEM oil plug 37 ftlbs, OEM filter housing 19 ftlbs. I couldn't find the torque specs for the sump pan in the Bentley book. Check Pelican's tech articles. I believe the spec for the sealant is 2MM wide strip. Anymore and it ends up in the pan and starts floating around in your oil passages. I believe Pelican used Loctite 5000 in their tech article. Hopefully somebody will add in details. And don't forget the washers.

My son is 18X finishing up OSUT at Benning. He turns Blue Nov 21 :dance:
HOOAH
Proud as hell of him

Everyone should have one of these Extractors:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/century-drill---tool-3156/tools---equipment-16488/tools-23747/cutting---drilling-tools-16542/screw-extractors---nut-breakers-17952/2ab2f4cc0680/century-drill-tool-screw-extractors/73406/2620515?q=no+6+easy+out&pos=0

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1572834355.jpg

Makes removing stripped oil drain plugs a breeze. Get a NO. 6 (size)

Dropping the pan is not a big deal at all. No gaskets for these you have to put a bead of sealant on the flange....thats about the biggest pain of the project but not too bad. V

That bead of sealant is the biggest pain. You don't want it too thick... you don't want it too thin. When I removed my pan I did find a few pieces of sealant caught in the mesh that sucks up the oil.

What I did to ensure properly reinstalling the pan, without it slipping all over when trying to align it to the engine, was to visit Auto Zone and purchase a few like-threaded bolts, and about 2 inches long... lopping off the heads with a dremel... screwing them partially into the "corner holes of where the pan rests... then slipping the pan over them with one hand and screwing in hand tight a few of the oil pan bolts. Once the pan was secured to the engine I removed the bolts absent the heads and finished the job.

Boom. No mess. No fuss. ;)

+ 1

yep, JFP shared this tip on the forum and works perfectly, no mess and you will get it done right the first time!
.

If the M10 Triple Square doesn’t work how about a splined screw extractor like these in the right size?

Irwin Tools Hanson 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set, 25 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zRmWDb4EG3HWG

How about jb weld quick weld the 10 mm hex into the stripped drain plug. Let completely dry and then remove remove the plug with a breaker bar. If it doesnt work, nothing lost b/c you will be drilling for an easy out anyway.

I should have prefaced the method I employed by sharing that it was upon these pages that I learned that trick. Because I can't change a tire without first reading 50 posts I tend to over-complicate even the simplest tasks. Thus, it was when I was going to remove the oil pan I immersed myself in reading. I'm certain I spent more time reading about dropping the oil pan, a 2/10 on the difficulty scale, than it took me to do the job.

Many things I read were associated with the pan slipping around... having to clean off the just applied sealant... and starting over. More likely than not it was a JFP post that was my "ah-ha" moment, then going to AZ for those bolts... lopping off the heads... and getting the job completed, correctly, the first time.

I'm what some might call a $30,000 millionaire and, without the tips, tricks, and advice on these forums... I couldn't own the Boxster.

:cheers:

That would probably make me a $25,000 millionaire! haha! I agree 100%, forums like this are indispensable to me! I wouldn't even think out owning a Boxster without forums like this.

+1 . . . . This Forum and Rennlist are indispensible if you are a Boxster owner even thinking of wrenching on your own. Learning from others who have been through it all before has saved me time, money, frustration and prevented me from making things worse.

I will 2nd, or 3rd the extractor method. I used a pipe wrench to break the nut free once the extractor was set. Learned the hard way my torque wrench is very quiet at 37 ft/pounds . . . 7 hour oil changes at my house :)

It’s Good to be the King!