Not 1 but 2 broken bolts on water pump!!!!
 

So I am removing my water pump after the bearing starts making noise. I take my 1st bolt off and fine. Move to the next bolt and 2 turns of the ratchet, I hear a noise on the ground. Head to the 11 position bolt breaks off. I move on to the other bolts and they are fine, I get to the bolt at the 1 position and the head snaps off as well. The first bolt left a little nub of the bolt but not enough to grab with vice grips. The second bolt broke flush with the metal. I already have loosened the front mount and dropped the motor as much as possible and bought some left hand drill bits. However, I am still having trouble getting to the bolts to drill out. Any suggestions as I even bought a HF right angle drill to access the right space? Helllllllp!!!!:confused::mad:

Bummer. Sorry to hear about that.

One of the links associated with this link may help. Best wishes.

https://www.google.com/search?q=broken+water+pump+bolts+986+boxster&rlz=1 C1CHWL_enUS826US826&oq=broken+water+pump+bolts+986 +boxster&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60.12684j0j7&sourcei d=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thanks our for the help. I need all I can take.

For the nub that is sticking out, sometimes you can use a dremel and cut a notch into the bolt. You can then use a flat blade screwdriver to try to loosen it. Its worth a shot?

Spray a little penetrating oil on the bolts, that will help loosen.

Penetrating oil, then heat, then dry ice, then penetrating oil, then heat, then dry ice. More penetrating oil, .... let it sit overnight.
Then use your extractor on the flush one, and your fingers on the other.

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Crazy! WP bolt torque is very small...want to say under 10 lb-ft (7 comes to mind).

Redciv, Sorry if I didn't understand this fully (English is my second language)..

But if two of the bolts lost their heads and you were able to remove the rest, once you get the water pump away from the block. you may get a piece of bolt left enough to clamp it with a vice grip or using the other tips already mentioned.

Of course if the bolt is flushed with the block it may be required to lower the engine/gearbox further down so you can have access to the broken studs from the front, because trying with an angle grinder may be tricky, specially because the block is soft aluminum casting..

Once I had to lower them enough to be able to remove one bank valve cover to replace the internal seals that had failed, and managed to do it with a transmission jack under the engine and a homemade engine pulling rack that was supported between the rear strut towers, should have some pictures if required..

Thanks for all the ideas. Never thought about the slit with the Dremel on the nub sticking up. I think my plan of attack will be to try more penetrating oil along with putting a slit in the nub and see if I can remove with flat head. If not then cut nub off and use the angle attachment on both bolts and drill. Will keep you all informed. I'm missing valuable summertime, top-down weather right now,��.
I saw something that said that every 20 minute job is just 1 broken bolt away from being a 3 day job, lol!!!

Wishing you good luck! I am going to add this to my inventory of project quotes!

I love it and it's so true. I have to keep humor in this situation 😂

I feel your pain and humor, I have created enough collateral damage of my own on house and car projects I have attempted over the years. I hope thes two recalcitrant bolts surrender without a difficult fight!

This morning, I went out ti swap out the top mechanism on my wife's R53 convertible.
1 hour project.
In unwrapping the new top, I nicked one of the hydraulic lines.
Now it's a 1 week of evenings and two Saturdays, job.

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Sometimes it just seems neverending in the most simple of jobs.

Thanks Paul. I think it time for me to find a good Indy after this one.