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-   -   $400 front break job (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7471)

tqtran 09-19-2006 09:43 AM

$400 front break job
 
This seems a bit high to me. I was quoted $434 to replace front break pads and break sensors. Is this about normal at other dealers?

CJ_Boxster 09-19-2006 10:07 AM

I think that sounds right...Have you got a warning light on your dash for worn brakes?

If not, you do not need brake wear sensors.

If you did the change yourself it would cost you under $100

blinkwatt 09-19-2006 11:28 AM

Brakes are easily a D.I.Y.
For $400 you could change the pads,rotors, and buy a Door Plug,and still have money left over. :D

jeffsquire 09-19-2006 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tqtran
This seems a bit high to me. I was quoted $434 to replace front break pads and break sensors. Is this about normal at other dealers?

_________________________________________

If you have a Bently's book you should be DIY. This is a fairly straight-forward procedure, it seems to me. Easier than my 94 Honda.

MNBoxster 09-19-2006 03:02 PM

Hi,

$400 is a little high, but remember, you're paying for someone else to put their kid through college. DIY is pretty easy but $100 is a little optimistic if you're going to do it right.

You should pull the rotors and measure them with a mic to be sure they're still within spec, then take them to an automotive machine shop and have them turned and balanced so you get nice even, vibration-free, bedding in with the new pads. I bet the Dealer includes this service in their price. To do right, I'd say more like $200 and about 3 hrs. time. Many machine shops can turn them while you wait, especially if you call ahead. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

bmussatti 09-19-2006 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Hi,

$400 is a little high, but remember, you're paying for someone else to put their kid through college. DIY is pretty easy but $100 is a little optimistic if you're going to do it right.

You should pull the rotors and measure them with a mic to be sure they're still within spec, then take them to an automotive machine shop and have them turned and balanced so you get nice even, vibration-free, bedding in with the new pads. I bet the Dealer includes this service in their price. To do right, I'd say more like $200 and about 3 hrs. time. Many machine shops can turn them while you wait, especially if you call ahead. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99


Jim, but this is only if you have non-drilled rotors right? What does the dealership do on the "S" model with the drilled rotors to make sure the pads bed in nicely?

tqtran 09-19-2006 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster
I think that sounds right...Have you got a warning light on your dash for worn brakes?

If not, you do not need brake wear sensors.

If you did the change yourself it would cost you under $100

Yeah, the light came on which is why I got the quote. No vibration nor any squeel from the pads but the "break wear" light come on and off. Also, felt front and back of break rotors and its smooth so not need to turn the rotors.

MNBoxster 09-19-2006 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmussatti
Jim, but this is only if you have non-drilled rotors right? What does the dealership do on the "S" model with the drilled rotors to make sure the pads bed in nicely?

Hi,

On the drilled rotors (referred to in Porsche Dealer Repair Manual as Perforated discs), Porsche says to measure the discs for minimum thickness in several distinct areas and also to look for uneven wear and cracking between the perforations. If any of the measurements are outside the tolerance given, the disc must be replaced, they cannot be machined or repaired.

On drilled rotors, bedding in is easier because of the perforations, but Porsche still cautions avoiding extreme braking at high speed, except in emergencies, for at least 200km.

So really, on the whole, the drilled rotors are a bad deal. Cost more, increase pad wear, have limited use (Porsche claims they have 1200 High Speed stops in them before cracking is so severe (more than 5mm) as to warrant replacement). Sounds like a lot, but really accounts for roughly 3% of the braking in the life of a single set of pads.

Empirically, they are more efficient. But, in practice, for Street Driving (heavily tracked cars excepted), they're really just expensive, unnecessary, overkill.

Of course, all this means nothing if you simply like the look of them or want bragging rights, all except the part about the added expense that is...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

MNBoxster 09-19-2006 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tqtran
Yeah, the light came on which is why I got the quote. No vibration nor any squeel from the pads but the "break wear" light come on and off. Also, felt front and back of break rotors and its smooth so not need to turn the rotors.

Hi,

Just because the rotors are smooth is no reason that they shouldn't be turned. You don't want smooth discs, you want even discs, but a little rough.

In fact, a smooth rotor will make bedding-in the pads much more difficult and raises the possibility that the pads will glaze. You want to lightly turn the rotors to rough-up their surface to improve braking and for proper bedding of the pads. A shop would lightly turn them and this will even the discs out as well as provide the necessary roughing-up. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99


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