Avic N2 in 2002 Boxster
 

Hello,
I had an Avic N2 installed into my Porsche Boxster by Circuit City. There is a constant buzzing noise from the time I turn on my car and when I turn on my headlights there is static noise. Is anyone experiencing the same problem? Or does anyone out there know what the problem might be?

Also,
does the Porsche Boxster 2002 come standard with AMPS? THANKS!!!
:)

You let circuit city work on your Porsche?? Yikes! :eek:

Does it get higher pitch whine when you step on the gas, if so it's called engine noise the speaker wires are picking it up from a nearby power source. Mostly do to bad grounding on the head unit

Hi,

Actually, if you have a speed dependent whine, it's from the alternator. I agree that grounding is usually the culprit, it's not the engine, but the 3-phase alternator which is ruining your music...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

I recently had the Avic N2 installed in my wife's MDX and the same problem happened. It turned out that the installer used the stock amp which creates the engine noise. Bring it back to the shop and ask them to use the deck's amp.

Did you also get that deal with Pioneer? The $ 200.00 rebate for the installation and the free portable GPS with bluetooth?

Make sure to get that because if you purchased the unit before September 5, you are eligible to get that promotion.

I also consider about installing the same unit into my box but decided to wait to see how the portable GPS is. If it does not work out that well, I will go with the Pioneer 9800 since it has built in bluetooth function for my cel.

Definitely yikes... I would not let Circuit City or any installer like that touch any of my cars, especially the Porsche. It's so easy with just buying a snap-in harness and doing the install yourself. By the way, how's your FM radio performance? I have had several VWs and they require an antenna booster because if not the radio (particularly AM)

That said, your problem sounds like alternator whine, which has been said here is due to crappy grounds. You could try the internal radio amp, but I wonder whether this unit even has amplified outputs - a lot of the naviagtion units don't because so many cars have built-in amplifiers anyway or people also have upgraded audio systems. Also, you have to go through the car's stock amp to be able to use the built-in speakers. If you are replacing the whole system, then run a new amp and speakers with good wire and bypass the stock amp.

As far as the grounding problem, Radio Shack sells a little device called a ground-loop isolator. That will significantly cut down on ground-induced noise, so take a look at that - it's pretty cheap.

Hello,
Thanks for all your replies...
What do you mean by "deck" amp? Does a 2002 porsche boxster come equipped with this?

What is the diff between a "stock" amp and a "deck" amp? And also, he thought it was a ground problem too.. so he grounded it to the chassis of the vehicle.. it decreased the noise significantly but there is still a buzzing noise.. furthermore.. yes the noise does increase as I accelerate :(

Thanks again

how about some pics??

By "deck amp" aka preamp, they are referring to the radio's built-in amplified outputs (which generally will be like 30Wx4 max, which is crap). But like I said, a lot of these navigation units don't even have amplified outputs - don't know about the N2 specifically. The stock amp refers to the car's built-in audio amplifier (part of the Bose system, for example) that handles amplifying and distributing the sound to the stock speakers.

If you're still getting a buzz, especially when accelerating, you definitely have a ground loop problem and really should get the ground loop isolator. Circuit City, Best Buy, etc. installers don't know **************** about how to install something the right way, and just rush through the installs anyway.

Okay, I will try the ground loop isolator. THe circuit city guy told me today that it would cost 70 bux to rewire all the wires to the "deck" amp.. i don't know if this is right.. is this hard to do? Thanks for all your help

I wouldn't do it. I would keep my car as far away from Circuit City as possible.

Amen to that. Again, don't pay them any more money. They should do the job right based on what you have paid them already. Of course, our idea of "a job done right" versus theirs will always be a big difference, I think.

IMO, I would not use the deck's amp and/or rewire the car unless you are going to upgrade your amplifiers and speakers. You might actually end up with worse sound quality.

But the ground loop isolator will definitely cut down on the alternator whine - so definitely do that, or revisit the installation job to make sure it's done right - because you shouldn't need the isolator anyway. As a side note, I have a full computer (running Windows XP) in my car with a touchscreen motorized VGA monitor in the dash and an aftermarket headunit for the radio and DVD player. I did the install right, and have no engine noise coming through my speakers. And I'd be more likely to, because a computer generates more electrical noise than any headunit by itself. But the installation was done right (I did it myself).

are all the ground loop isolators the same? (brand wise)? Which do u prefer? Crutchfield sells the PAC one.. however radioshack sells the "radioshack" brand one.. does it make a difference? Thanks for all your help

ANd also, when I turn on my headlights... there is a lot of static noise that turns on as well.. would the ground loop isolator fix this as well? THanks

You've got some wires crossed beacuse the it shouldn't affect that at all. Sorry to say, Circuit City reall messed u up.

Even with ground loop isolator, you would still be able to hear some engine noise (hissing sound) when your headlight is on.

Regarding the deck's power, this nav unit is also a CD player and does have its own power. It's adequate to run the Box's speakers system with clean sound because it sounds good in my wife's MDX.

The Circuit City's installer is screwing you up by making you buying the ground isolator. All they have to do is rewire the speakers wires directly to the back of the deck or run the wire from the deck to the speakers wires that are currently located at the stock amp.

Since you have shelled out that much for the deck, may be just go to a different shop to have the wires re-run. It should cost about the same as purchasing the isolator unit itself.

Hope this helps!

Where are you located?

Im located in Miami, FL. Tomorrow I am going to have a talk with my installer. Gahh they really messed my installation up. THanks for all your help.

Damn, that explains it. I'm originally from Miami, and had them install an aftermarket radio for me in my first car (about 10 years ago). This was the shop by Tropical Park. They did such a **************** job and broke more things like dash clips and whatnot, that it was the last time I ever have them touch anything of mine.

Like I said before, you should not need the isolator if things were installed correctly and conscientiously the first time around. But seeing as how they mangled your install, it will at least help (not completely eliminate the noise, though).

I had them rewire the wires directly to the Deck AMP. It has fixed the engine noise as long as the static noise when the headlights are turned on. What is interesting is that he showed me that if he grounded the RCA's to the head unit itself that the buzzing noise went away.. and that there was only a very faint buzz when you accelerate..

Thx for all your help