oil filter bypass modification
 

i'll just post this and get out of the way ...

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1072756-diy-guide-full-flow-non-bypass-oil-filter-housing-mod-for-1-no-spin-on.html

Charles Navarro made a very level response in the thread. Seems like an ok solution but no thanks, I’ll stick with my LN spin on with two of the LN curved filter magnets installed. Besides, the solution as stated in the thread seems to put a small screw inside the filter. If it gets loose, it’s headed straight for the engine internals.

I’ve changed the oil twice since installing the spin on and neither filter has been the slightest bit collapsed upon inspection.

What is the purpose of that DIY exactly or what they are discussion? I am with Oldcar guy, why add washer that can get loose, another comment further down talks about using expoxyband caps.

It was written by an individual that from the beginning has been trying to prove he is a better engineer than everyone else. On another forum, he tried to convince everyone that after you find metal in the oil from a failing IMS bearing, he had a way to recover the engine with out taking it apart.

let me guess: put the metal BACK IN?

Hehe

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No, he claimed you could leave it in the engine and just run a full flow filter and you would be fine.

ignoring his methodology, what are the thoughts on converting the oem filter housing to non-bypass (ie gluing it instead)? is it beneficial? detrimental? is the filter element up to it? would you be starving the engine of oil in high plow/high pressure situations?

Non bypass, or "full flow" guarantees total oil filtration at all times, which can be beneficial on these engines, provided the filter can flow enough volume of oil. The LN spin on is full flow. The down side with the OEM style filter is the glued on paper end caps, which are known to leak even with a by pass valve functioning, which can lead to reduced or even no filtration.