98 986 at 91K - looking to replace suspension components and solve electrical gremlin
 

So, issues I'm looking to solve:

-In reverse on nearly full lock, there's a clicking sound from front right. I'm guessing upper control arms?

-Right Rear strut leaking

-Occasionally the windows will randomly drop all the way, sometimes left, sometimes right, sometimes both

I currently have 19" on there and the car is my DD so looking for like-stock height and comfort, but I'm sure any newer suspension will provide that. I heard that the 01-04 S suspension is compatible and an upgrade - any thoughts on this? Is a full suspension replacement even necessary at this mileage, or can (should) I just get away with replacing the rear struts?

As far as other parts to replace, any suggestions - bushings, control arms, etc?

And the window issue, any idea what this could be?

From reading, best suspension upgrade in general is the ROW M030 but it is a bit stiffer and will drop ride height a bit. But will add better arb’s and stiffen car up better handling. I have not done this yet, but on the list. Will be following with interest.

Those are the two reasons I wasn't considering that too much. I believe I'll run into rubbing issues with an ROW and the roads around me seem to be rather crappy (I'm sure the larger wheels and worn suspension bits have something to add to that).

I've only seen one person mention the S's backward compatibility to my model, and of course can't find that thread right now.

Window relays are in the immobilizer, so you likely have an immobilizer issue (usually caused by past or present water infiltration). Pull it, check connector pins and board for signs of water/corrosion.

Will do, thanks.

Also, I've been following your de-ambering threads for awhile! I figured I should do mechanical then cosmetic but I am ITCHING to get the amber off and the HIDs in.

Oh Yeah 19” wheels didnt think remember to consider that. Probably general refresh larger ARB and struts would tighten you up.

I just rebuilt my suspension on my 99. COMPLETELY. I used H&R lowering springs, Bilstein spsorts, 26mm front sway bar, factory 19.6 rear swaybar, tarrret droplinks all the way around. Car is lower but ride quality hasn't suffered but I haven't driven car much since completing weather not cooperating. issue I had was once lowered I had to use adjustable rear toe links and I had to have the Meagan racing outer tie rods cut to get a proper alignment. Lowering really messes up toe

The S suspension is very similar to the base M030 suspension - a bit firmer and slightly lower ride height.

At 20 years and 100K miles, your suspension is "well worn" at best and "completely worn out" at worst. Where it falls within that range depends on how hard a life it led over those 20 years.

Could you just replace the rear struts? Sure, that will address the immediate problem and keep you going for a few more years. But in general, most cars will need a full suspension refresh by about 120K miles.

The bottom line is that it depends on what you want, when you want to spend the money, and if you plan to keep the car long-term. If you want the car to handle like new, don't mind spending the money, or plan to keep the car long-term, then a full suspension refresh is certainly due. Otherwise, if you don't want to invest the money and can live with it "as is" for a few more years or you don't plan on keeping the car long-term, then just replace the rear struts.

When you do decide to address the suspension, replace everything that has a rubber bushing (control arms, track arm, toe arm, sway bar bushings, drop links, upper shock mounts, etc). This is what I mean by a full suspension re-fresh. Do a search, many others have done this and have provided advice on parts, tools, and tips.

your suspension is "well worn" at best and "completely worn out" at worst.

Nice line :-)

So I'm looking to do the full suspension refresh, 00S with 65K on the odometer. The car is sloppy and loose, and my tires are cupping , and when taking a hard left (now even a little pressure in a left turn) makes a serious growling/grinding noise. I haven't been under it yet to take a look, but I figured I'd follow your advice.

My question comes with the replacement of everything that has a rubber bushing. do you mean just the bushing can be replaced or that I need to replace the entire control arms, track arms, and all other arms/links? We're getting into the upper $4k range for all four corners. I'd like to keep costs down to around $1500-2000 if possible.
If I do have to go the entire replacement route, would you recommend any packages, not the PelicanParts package?
Cheers!
Thom

When you do decide to address the suspension, replace everything that has a rubber bushing (control arms, track arm, toe arm, sway bar bushings, drop links, upper shock mounts, etc). This is what I mean by a full suspension re-fresh. Do a search, many others have done this and have provided advice on parts, tools, and tips.[/QUOTE]