Audio Upgrade Project Sanity Check
 

Hi All,
I have several projects on going and planned for my ride, one in which is sound system upgrade. I was going to do a double DIN set up but wife is like the car is a classic don't do that, so redirection is a single DIN to make it easy to go back to factory gear. So here is my plan just wanted a bit of feedback and maybe some thoughts on speakers.

Current setup 00S:
Stock Becker HU with 996 6 channel amp, 6 Chanel CD changer, Factory door speakers, JBL GTO 4" coaxial in dash. Rear speaker kit with Pioneers being this week's project.

Planed Gear:
HU Pioneer DEH-PRS-80
Door speakers Kicker 6.75" DVC subwoofers shallow mount
Rear pioneers from kit remain same
Dash speakers thinking of upgrading to separates or better coaxial
Amp JL Audio 5 Channel RD may change to the small units do a 4 and a mono.

How:
Door speakers I bought used door speakers with factory Nokia box $40 for pair. Will use the box to cut up and install the door subs.

Amplifier bought a old M490 AMP for $20 off ebay. Will use that to dis-assemble to get the connector out and use the factory bracket to mount after market amp.

Dash I use the CAI mounting rings little pricey but really easy to use.

Rear is a PnP into the shelf unit.

So if you read this far you are interested in the project:
Thoughts on plan, equipment, ect...

Alternative speaker configuration or opinion on a HU/speaker setup with 6 channel amp.

Going for the best sound I can get but not a competition setup.

I would have forgotten the rears and spent the money on hi end speakers. Definitely separates in the dash and think about a sound processor. Only worry about the front sound stage and you'll be happy.

Sounds a lot like my approach, so I approve!

What are the airspace requirements for those subs? The door enclosures are approx .14ft^3 (3.96L) from my research.
I went with more of a midwoofer for my doors. (I wanted a simple 2 way) I used the Dayton RS150P-4A, and they are just about perfect for the enclosure volume.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs150p-4a-6-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-563

In the dash I only have a tweeter. I may think about doubling up on the tweeters in the future so I can cross them over lower. (I have a thing for arrays)

I have a build thread on diymobileaudio.com that I don't update very often.
2002 Porsche Boxster S - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum


Best of luck!

I tried that route and the cabin fill was less than satisfactory. Wired up a pair of 5.25s sitting on the rear shelf, with quick connects, and it's almost like surround sound. Remove the acrylic wind screen when the top is up... heaven.

I'd recommend a pair on the shelf.

Thanks for your input. I already purchased the rears awhile back hadn't gotten to installing so going to add them in add some rear fill when the tops down. Been re-evaluating my speaker choice today, on the JL Audio sight saw a 996 with 6.5's in the doors using the factory box install was nice and clean. The pioneer HU has built in signal processing in a network mode, plus the amp I am considering has a lot of tuning capability. Trying to not over spend but get a really good sound.

Too much info and I haven't played with car audio in years. You think I could use only the woofer out of 6.5 2 piece component set and then get a 4" component for dash?

I like your thread on the audio forum, also loved the Binary license plate I am an IT Manager so like weird stuff.

Those require a closed box and the volume maybe just a little shy I think it was .15 min on those. I figure since I have the extra boxes I can cut em seal em what ever.

I was looking at the tank woofer saw some 996 guys had used them but don't like the power rating.

So after I made this post today started looking at speakers again. I can't seem to find a component 3 way I can afford or want to afford. I did see a 6.5 mid installed in a 996 on the JLAudio sight, was a BH I think, but it only comes in a 2 way.

Looked at the JBL GTO separates price range fits $250 again 2 way. While on the JBL sight noticed a under seat sub, which might fit 2.75" tall, 9.5" wide by 14" deep.
Going to do some measuring. Anyway, hard decision and I can't go any where to listen to speakers here.

Update
 

Well pulled the trigger on the head unit. Pioneer DEH PRS 80, purchase from cruthfield used there pre wire service. In theory plug and play install. :cheers:

High quality 6.5 speakers in the doors with lots of power will give you all the bass you need. Look at higher quality speakers like Audison, Hertz, Focal. 3” in the dash with tweeters. I have 150w per channel, lots of power gives you a loud system even with top down. Remember you can always turn it down but you can’t go any higher than max.

That’s because you need 6.5 in doors and 100w-150w of power. That large of speakers right next to your ears will drown out the front sound stage. High end sound systems concentrate on front sound stage. If you’re at a concert the sound is in front of you and not behind you. I had some trouble understanding that coming from old fashioned systems I’ve traditionally had.

Not sure i like the price point on those. Power wise looking no more than 100 watts rms mains, and 300 for sub channel. The focals are out of my price i like the k2 line but budget. Crutchfield rep picked some jl audio 5.25 shallow subs for the doors, but a little over $300 for the pair. They match the box volume so should work. Too complicated. Was at a sight called madisound diy speaker builder sight, have some morels and other brands. Tough decision.

I kept my CDR220 and installed 4 ea. of the Madisound 3" midrange in the rear speaker deck to replace the factory originals, and put Polk Audio 2-ways in the dash. I also considered changing to a larger door speaker but found that the sound from the factory 5.25" door subs with the new Polk Audio 5-channel amp I installed made a significant difference in sound. The 4X70w @ 4-ohms and 1X500w @ 1-ohm power output w/the 2 ohm factory door speakers in parallel sounds better than I thought it might. Tuning the amp properly makes a huge difference. I got a car audio shop to show me how to do that.
THINGS I LEARNED: I planned to use either the factory amp or CD changer bracket, but sizewise those did not work. If you're really lucky you can use the existing mounting holes; I was not and could only use one. There is a hole in the firewall near the steering column you can use to run power and control between the head unit and the amp. Littlefuse fuses won't fit in a Boss Audio fuseholder.

This works for me:

Rockford Fosgate Power T400-4 Amplifier (Frunk) (powering the 4 speakers @100W each)
Eclipse CD 5425 Head Unit
Kenwood KSC SW11 Subwoofer 150W
Alpine CHM 5620 6-CD changer (Frunk)
Alpine SPR 50C 180W dash mounted front speakers
Crossfire FX52 100W deck mounted rear speakers (removable/positional/can be stored on the shelf with the top down)

Does that subwoofer fit under your seat with no issues? I am removing my cd changer mine sounds like crap, plus head unit i ordered has streaming and an xd card, iphone input ect.... i ripped my cd library into loseless audio files so cd quality.

Quick question concerning the alram wire. Instructions say to disconnect it and change mounting frame, but what do you do with the wire? The instruction say nothing or i missed it. I saw post in another forum says just tape it up and leave it disconnected.

And thanks for all the great input on the subject.

Look at these they are the cousin to my Audison speakers (they are owned by Audison). I ordered mine from this company, they are in Italy but they arrived in 3 days which is faster than I can get some stuff in US. No shipping no tax and are far superior to anything you are looking at. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HERTZ-mille-MPK165P-3-6-5-16-5-cm-2-way-component-speakers-/252695277970?hash=item3ad5cff192


These are the ones I have but the price is wrong so you might contact them about the price. they should be $349.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audison-AV-voce-K6-6-5-16-5-cm-2-way-component-speakers-system-/252695276160?hash=item3ad5cfea80 Both are about half the price they are in US.

Thanks. I happen to live in Spain so probably can have them sent directly. I was checking out morel’s today.

The HU i have coming has a network mode so i can use seperate out for high mids and low. After looking at space i dont see anyway to use an underseat sub. This brings me to the realization to use network mode i need good woofers in doors a 4” mid drive in dash and a tweeter. 5 channel amp, run the doors in mono for bass and mids on the 4” tweeter on high. If you have any helpful advice i am all ears.

I have realized car audio has gotten very indepth since i played with it last.

My installer located it at the topmost of the passenger foot-well. The floor mat covers it. Can't see it. Can hear it.

Ah! I was checking dimensions out under the seats I dont think a mouse could even fit under there. Might take a look where yours is at, hate to loose leg room though. :cheers:

Great thread!

Nice to see that others than me are trying to get good audio in the Boxster!
I am currently installing a similar system in my Boxster..
Hertz Mille pro 70.3 and tweeters in the dashboard and Hertz Mille pro mpk 165 6.5" in the doors.

Also a pioneer HU in network mode, but since the 6,5 in the doors needs to have a crossover setting for ca 250hz they need to be in stereo, so I am running the mid and high in the dashboard from four channels of one amp, and the doorspeakers from a separate 2 channel amp.

Have started tweaking a bit and personally I need more bottom fill in low hz so next step will be to rebuilding the bose enclosure on the shelf for two flat 8" subwoofers which will also be driven of a separat amp.

Have also installed a backup camera.. you too?

Have inserted quite a bit dampening in the doors and dashboard, and the door speaker enclosures, but the sound will never be good when driving so my goal is to not fokus on ambient/highway/road sounds but just on interior rattle and speaker invironment when car is standing still.

Still got some static noise from the car both with motor running and not.. you too?

I am still in the purchasing stage! I bought a single DIN HU pioneer deh-prs80, havent received it yet. I swapped dash speakers and changed the 490 amp to a 6 channel last year, but still not happy with the sound so started a revamped.

You have the speaker configuration i was think of in network mode. 6.5 component in doors. I bought a extra set of nokia boxes to use so i can cut up. Want to be able to put back original so working to conserve pieces.

So dash was thinking to put a 4” mid and tweeter there. Send sub signal to doors mid to 4” and hi to tweets, using a 5 channel amp put doors in mono mode.

Since you are in that set up what is your take on the sound?

Other than the method you are going to do i see no way to get a decent sub set up in there. In the DIY post someone used a 8” round power sub, just fits behind the seat.

My extra 490 amp has not arrived yet, i am going to use that to make an interconnection unit between factory wiring harness and aftermarket amp.

Want to mount aftermarket amp where the CD changer is. Just not much room.
Glad you are finding this thread helpful, i have also. From post below i think i may pull the trigger on the hertz mille excellent price.

Just transport short people.

I'm sorry. I mean height disadvantaged.

Your passengers won't even know it' there if you don't tell them...

To early to say anything about the sound.. these speakers are stiff and before they are played in, they will not give good sound, so do not get worried if it sounds bad at first.

I do believe that it will be good in the end.. but the car is fighting me every step of the way..

I am placing two of the amps on the frunk floor and one in the original location..
Plan on having a false floor bottom with a polycarbonate cutout in the middle.
This because of the fact that I want to use the space for luggage, and I want to keep the spare wheel.

Regarding the subwoofers, the enclosure is ca 32l when everything is gutted, so I will make a new bottom and mount the subs facing up, and I will also close up the ports so its airtight. And divide the enclosure inside.
That will probably give ca 14l for each subwoofer and manufacturer recommends 14.2l

The subs (Pioneer TS-SW2002D2) Require 67mm install depth and the inclosure will be ca 100mm so I can mount them ca 20mm deep to get them flush so maybe they can be used when the top is down.

My wife rides there, if she isnt comfortable then i get no peace or piece! :D

Pretty much need to use the Frunk for all the extras. The bulkhead just behind the spare is good for an amp, not sure if there is enough room for a changer as well. Just do a multi media head unit and bluetooth your ipod/iphone. No need for CD's...

Just no room in the cabin at all. There is enough room under the Pass seat for the tool kit. That's about it.

Thank You for the link, I ordered the Hertz was going back a forth.

UP Date
 

Quick up date!
HU arrived ready to install. Shipping issue with my ebay purchase, so vendor cancelled. Now back to speaker search.

CAI just wants to sell focals, which are out of my budget. I found a vendor that builds subwoofer box with 10” sub looks nice, but $1600.

Wondering how this has turned out, looking for upgrades since i blown the dashboard speakers out, with no speakers in the doors its a bit of a problem to say the least.


Dont feel like cutting up the doorpanels so looking for a setup that is good on the dashboard speaker room and perhaps a under the seat sub..

I'm open for suggestions and will keep searching the forum

Went well, i have 6.5 mid woofers in doors, 3 inch mid in dash and 1.5” tweeters. For sub i bought a bose footwell sub off ebay, removed the bose speaker, sealed the hole, cut out a hole to fit in an 8” thin mount sub. Used a pioneer at first but burned out voice coils now using a kicker. Sounds excellent.