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Old 08-17-2006, 11:54 AM   #1
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Perfectlap will surely come to your rescue.
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:05 PM   #2
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One more thing...

To take it in/out of storage I have to drive it on a slightly dusty gravel road for about 100 yards every weekend. So it would be nice if the routine can take this into consideration.
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:14 PM   #3
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To take it in/out of storage I have to drive it on a slightly dusty gravel road for about 100 yards every weekend. So it would be nice if the routine can take this into consideration.

Hose down the gravel like the ground-crews do in baseball!!
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:28 PM   #4
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"I would also recommend that you get Ragg Topp, and apply 3 coats, soon."

If that's smth for the roof, I applied the Porsche Top Protectant just couple of weeks ago. I put a nice layer of it, and water beads like crazy up there. I'll check out Ragg Top. Thx.

As for owning a black car, yes it may require more attention but even without perfect detail it still looks so darn good. I also get a kick out of the before/after contrast especially when "before" gets a bit more dirty (sprinkle rain over a coat of dust with some road splater from driving in the rain, ouch!). The "after" wows me every time even if it's just a simple wash and rinse.
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:56 PM   #5
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"I would also recommend that you get Ragg Topp, and apply 3 coats, soon."

If that's smth for the roof, I applied the Porsche Top Protectant just couple of weeks ago. I put a nice layer of it, and water beads like crazy up there. I'll check out Ragg Top. Thx.
Sounds like you have the roof/top well protected. Good job. The factory coating just does not bead! Kind of surprising.
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Old 08-17-2006, 01:13 PM   #6
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actually claying is your biggest ally...

there is the soft clay like Sonus Green and the traditional clay. Polutants dull your clear coat so the base layer doesn't shine as bright. done properly (lots of lubrication) there is little damage to the clear coat and you maintain the shine.
Claying with the soft compound won't strip your wax. The over the counter clays are harder and are intened for a deeper clean.


Your biggest enemy with black is washing and excessive detailing. Its a double whammy. Errors are magnified and the results don't last because..its black!
Unless you are sporting the Boxster for a special occasion I would not touch it between washes. If you do decide to shine it up make sure each panel is wet with a detailing spray or some other form of lubrication. Dampen the towel as well.
Basically never touch dark dry paint with a dry towel.

My suggestion is to try using a waterless wash like Optimum No Rinse, Detailers Pride or Poorboys. I would use the traditonal wash only when the car gets really really filthy. When you do use a traditional car wash soap remove the nozzle and blot dry after flooding the surface to sheet off the water. Blot dry remaining beads or puddles, never wipe. Avoid using paste waxes or polishes more than once a month, try sticking to the spray form of any product, it will cut down on the rubbing of the paint. Also get the best quality towels you can buy, I like the Poorboys with silk binding, Poorboys waffle weaves for drying and a dedicated buffing towel when the car is CLEAN.

Being careful in the washing and drying is the key to making the clear coat last.
Personally I would follow up with Poorboys Natty's Blue(once a month) and top that with FK 425 spray wipe to ward off dust build up, a barrier of sorts. That's it.
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Old 08-17-2006, 02:16 PM   #7
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"Polutants dull your clear coat so the base layer doesn't shine as bright. done properly (lots of lubrication) there is little damage to the clear coat and you maintain the shine."

I don't mean to be a pain, but this is exactly where my logic stops working. The way I understand it, I want the clay to be abrasive enough (which means not too lubricated) to even out the clear-coat by stripping a miniscule layer of it away. Now if I put a lot of lubrication, then there's no abrasion, so what's the point of claying to begin with? I either want to abrasively even out the clear-coat or I don't. Are you talking about controlling the abrasiveness with the amount of lubricant we apply?

"Claying with the soft compound won't strip your wax. The over the counter clays are harder and are intened for a deeper clean."

Just to make sure I understand this. Claying is NOT supposed to strip the wax? How will it clean and even out the clear-coat under it then? Also what is the difference between clay, glaze, and polish? From what I can understand, they are all clear-coat abrasives with decreasing levels of abrasiveness (starting from clay down to polish, as the least abrasive).

"Unless you are sporting the Boxster for a special occasion I would not touch it between washes. If you do decide to shine it up make sure each panel is wet with a detailing spray or some other form of lubrication. Dampen the towel as well.
Basically never touch dark dry paint with a dry towel."


Understood and applied in principle. Thx for the dampening tips.

"My suggestion is to try using a waterless wash like Optimum No Rinse..."

Just ordered it, mainly because you've been suggesting it elsewhere. I like all the talk about its lubricity.

"When you do use a traditional car wash soap remove the nozzle and blot dry after flooding the surface to sheet off the water. Blot dry remaining beads or puddles, never wipe."

Intuitively have been rinsing off without the nozzle BUT have been WIPING the drops off with a P21S chamois. I think between the synthetic sponge (just ordered a natural sea one) and the chamois that's what had produced the barely noticable swirls I can notice under a strong sun reflection. I think the drying part is tricky because I'm borderline breaking the "don't touch with dry towel rule". I'm AM trying to dry the darn thing after all.

"Avoid using paste waxes or polishes more than once a month, try sticking to the spray form of any product, it will cut down on the rubbing of the paint. "

Have only been using liquid wax so far (once P21S, once Meguiars NXT), and I just ordered the Meguiars NXT Spray Wax for touch up detailing between waxes. Says it has slight polishing (swirl removing) agents in it.

"Also get the best quality towels you can buy, I like the Poorboys with silk binding, Poorboys waffle weaves for drying and a dedicated buffing towel when the car is CLEAN."

Ah, wish I hadn't just ordered a set of Cobra micro-fiber towels (including a waffle-weave one). I'll try the Poorboys after I use up these.

"Being careful in the washing and drying is the key to making the clear coat last."

Yes. Seems the name of the game is producing as little swirls as possible so that you won't have to use up clear-coat in order to "remove" them later.

And I'm getting the FK 425, too, since you've praised it more than once. Should especially help to ward off dust from the dirt road section.

Thanks much. Really appreciate it.
Z.
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Old 08-17-2006, 12:13 PM   #8
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Having a black car is going to require a lot more work and attention.

I have been using the Zaino products since my car was new in March. I love the results. Try www.zainobros.com.

Your car is brand new. So, I don't think you need to clay. At a recent Concours event I attended with the PCA (where I took 2nd place for Class C- interior, exterior and trunks) I was told by several people that they never use clay.

If you go the Zaino route, you really only need Z5 and Z2. If you want you can use the Z6 between layers or for quick touch-ups.

The Z7 car wash is great.

I would also recommend that you get Ragg Topp, and apply 3 coats, soon.

Good luck.

PS- you can cancell the gym membership! You have a black car now...that's all the work-out you'll ever need. Biceps the size of tree trunks are in your future.

My Day was right many years ago, when he told me, "Everyone owns a black car once in their lives!"

PPS- don't listen to Perfectlap...all he will tell you is to put side skirts on your car!!
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