Found the darn window issue - pictures of wet immobilizer board attached.
 

I think the pics speak for themselves. What options do I have now, if any? Can this board be saved? Do I even try the "bathe it in alcohol" trick now or is that a waste of time. Has anyone ever saved one of these, and if so how'd you do it? I hate to spend the $875 on the Florida repair if there's a cheaper alternative. Darn, that's expensive! Any and all advice is greatly appreciated. And I have to say - Particlewave, you are clairvoyant. You hit it right on the head. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1518497058.jpg

More photos of bad immobilizer board
 

The underside.....http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1518497129.jpg

One last photo of the connector
 

Here's the connector. The other half of the board is clean. Only this part got wet. No that this helps any......http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1518497212.jpg

That thing is shot. I've tried repairing them when they're not nearly that bad and had little luck.
I'll send you some details via private message later, but the cheapest will be the cost of a good used immobilizer and an EEPROM read/write tool.

Ok, if it were me, I'd get out a toothbrush and some 90% isopropol rubbing alcohol and scrub the board to see exactly how bad it is... (if you clean the board up and it looks good, make damn sure it's 100% dry before plugging it back in!)

But, damn, that doesn't look good... (so much water damage (white spots) and burned spots)...

This is exactly why I'll be ordering a waterproof case from Specialized ECU Repair... (just verified that my car doesn't already have one installed)...

You're a genius, sir! :cheers:
You had the problem called right on the spot without even seeing the car. I've spent the last 45 min or so VERY gently dabbing, not wiping, the dirt and corrosion away from this board using alcohol, Q-tips and even my wife's makeup brush. Wow, is she gonna be pissed off! The board actually looks pretty good.

While I don't know much about electronics, I do know that what the board looks like has little to do with how it works. I have little hope that this thing will actually work. The question is, what is the risk, if any, of making 100% sure it's dry, then plugging it back in, hooking up the leads to the box and the power seat so I don't get a airbag light, hook the battery back up and turn on the key to see what if anything I have? Can I cause further damage, assuming the board is completely dry?

As far as getting a used one, that may be tough to find. Other than Woody, I wouldn't know where to score one. I checked with Woody already as a pre-emptive strike and he has none available.

As far as a EEPROM read/write tool, what it is, what it does and how you use it......darned if I know!:confused: Guess I better get studying! http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1518500582.jpg

Bottom side shot after cleaning....
 

Bottom - http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1518500645.jpg

I just made a quick pass at trying exactly what you said. It looks better, that's for sure. However, no idea how it works. I agree completely that it must be 100% dry before I try it, if in fact I try it again. I don't know if I can cause any further damage that way. Hopefully someone much more experienced in this than I am will chime in and let me know it I should try it again.

I’m with Particleweave. That thing, even cleaned up, is most likely done. IMO with that much visible corrosion, (that was wet for awhile) no telling how bad it is at a micro level. Given that is completely necessary for the entire car to function, it’s time for a replacement. Give these guys a call/email.

Porsche 996 & Boxster ECU Test and Repair, Immobilizer Removal, and Performance Tuning Upgrades - Specialized ECU Repair

Check with Qmalas (Steve) on here. He might be able to help you

Imobilizer
 

You say we can program the EEPROM?

yuck,

sorry to see that. check your drain plugs and your convertible top foam trays.

can we link the original discussion here and vis-versa so folks at home can find it with search.

Mike

Mike,

I'm not sure how to link threads, but if anyone else knows how, that's fine with me. As for the drains, I have read about drains clogging but my educational curve has not yet reached the point where I actually know where they are.

Other than this immobilizer box issue there's nothing major wrong with the car. However, there are lots of very small things that I am trying to organize and sort through. Checking the drains is on the list. I'm trying to search and not ask lots of questions so as not to be yelled at to "DO A SEARCH !!!!!" :)

If you have time and can give me a very brief "drain locating and cleaning 101" type course I'd certainly appreciate it.

Thanks

Check this out.
https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/drainsdiagram

That's great, thanks so much!

Don’t worry so much about that here. It’s a great forum. You seem to be trying your best to research and most here are happy to help. And those that aren’t usually just keep quiet

As Particlewave and others predicted, the immobilizer is toast
 

So I put it in the immobilizer board back in its plastic case and reinstalled it, plugged in the seat, etc., and it's as dead as it was before. Unless someone has a better idea that a neophyte Porsche owner like me can handle, I guess I have to bite the bullet on the $875 Florida immobilizer repair. Thank goodness the car was very inexpensive.

Well I wouldn't fool around with that for that money just go at the Porsche Dealer buy a new one get it programmed and they give you a two year warranty on the parts. OK you will pay extra for programming but it for peace of mind.

Another option is just get rid of the thing. The guys in Florida do a immobilizer delete setup as well. If you don’t need the alarm, IR etc, then it is worth a look IMO. Not sure the $$$ but it eliminates the problem forever.

I like having the remote locks with the keys. I think I'll just pick up one of their waterproof boxes and hopefully that'll be it for the rest of the time I own the car.