Trunk and frunk won't open. Failing to find the answer...
 

I did research threads... but failed to find the answer. I'm hoping someone can help me.

Bought the 98 a few months ago. All good. Maintenance included cleaning the throttle body... and last week I cleaned the radiators. They didn't look much unlike the pictures I've seen on here. Dirty. Anyhow...

It's been driven 40 miles here... there...everywhere. Always returned home. So...

Drove it to Vegas Thursday morning. 240 miles. All good. Did some light city driving... 10 miles here... 10 miles there.

Saturday afternoon I make the return trip (the 15 into SoCal). After having successfully driven it TO Vegas without a hiccup I had more confidence driving it back. It really likes ~3900 RPM and ~90 MPH. Anyhow... after the 240 mile return trip I pull it into the driveway.. park... run a few things into the house... come back out... HUGE coolant spill.

I walked to the bottom of the driveway where, when I reach it and because it has a slight incline, I slow down the car... clear the driveway incline... and gas it into the driveway. So...

There at that incline was an obviously large dump of coolant... and a stream, pencil width, of coolant that followed me he final 25 feet into the driveway... and the big spill/dump. Something tells me that when I gave it gas after that incline... the dump stopped... but when I reached my destination, 25 feet away... the big dump.

I've read about the coolant spewing all over the trunk so, with trepidation... I lifted the trunk lid. Zero coolant. That was a relief. So... it's getting dark and I figure I'll check everything first morning light.

Here's my dilemma:

First, I have not started the car. I was going to see if there were any codes... reader in the frunk.

The fruk and trunk levers won't work. They are locked. hen I've pulled on the before... I could feel the cable... release... trunk open. Same with the frunk. Now, it's like they are locked.

I looked in the little fuse booklet... found nothing about a fuse for the trunk/frunk releases.

So, here I turn to the experts. Once I get into the trunk and start doing some coolant troubleshooting I'm sure I'll be back here, but for now I need access.

FWIW, when I cleaned the radiators I saw that someone already had effected the frunk release hack. I'll pull that as a last resort.

Thank you in advance.

Do any lights turn on when the door is opened? Was the key left in the ignition? sounds like a dead battery. If so there is a orange to red copper clad post (rectangular) in the fuse panel. connect the positive clip of charger or jumper cable to that post then connect the ground end to body. I use the door latch bolt. pull the trunk lever.

I went out and started the car for 10 seconds. Both levers remained locked.

The good news is that there were no noises and it idled just fine.

Next?

I'm fighting a similar issues with my 1998....the FRUNK release feels "locked" only raises about an 1".... But on mine the truck release is working normally.... I did get it to open a couple of times by haveing a friend push on the hood, while lifting the lever.... But it may have been incidental....

Thanks!
Fred

Mine aren't lifting a quarter inch. And... it's both trunks. Worked fine until the coolant dump?

Coincidental?

C'Mon guys... any takers? Can't begin doing JDS until I have trunk access.

Thank you.

Some info here....

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/28400-front-and-rear-trunk-levers-locked-how-to-unlock/

I'm not 100% sure, but I'd hazard a guess the 98 is the same as my 97 in that it's a completely mechanical system, the lever pulls a cable that releases the latch, no electrics involved. Seems unlikely they'd both 'snap' or something at the same time though? But there is no 'lock' mode that you've accidentally turned on or anything. I'd try to dig out the emergency release cable and see if that still works.

Exactly. A Cable operated system. Now they're both "locked". Zero give. I'll try the cable route you suggest.

However... who can explain why both would lock at the same time AND after an otherwise incidental coolant dump?

Thank you.

Has there been a significant change in temperatures? Either air temperature or coolant temperature? On my 2004 S I can't open the frunk when the car gets really hot. I have to let it cool off before it will open again. PLan to replace the latch mechanism while in winter hibernation.

FIXED!

The link provided helped. I remembered that the driver door had to be opened for the actuator to allow the lever to be pulled up (can't unlock trunk/frunk with door closed). So, I figured maybe a switch wasn't recognizing that the door was open. I opened and closed the door several times, with some encouragement... then locked/unlocked 4 times.

Opened the door... pulled the lever... BOOM. Opened.

The only bummer is that I should have checked the lever after first opening/closing the doors several times... and before the lock/unlock method. One of them worked.

Thank you, people. This board is an invaluable resource. And on a Sunday morning, nonetheless.

Surely I'l be back as I go investigate the dump.

Cheers!

Hey Starter986, I don't mean to jump your thread..... But since your sorted out.....

I'll try the opening and closing trick.... Couldn't hurt ! But I forgot to mention.... My driver's side window isn't dropping when the door is opened or closed.... And the remote keys don't work.... (One lights the LED one does not) And since I just bought this car Friday so don't know it yet..... I figure it can't hurt to ask.... So purhaps it is a switch or sensor that is bad.... Was going to pull the door card and try the cable tie trick.... But maybe there is more to my issue!


Thanks!
Fred

Stick the key that does light the LED into the driver side lock. Lock/Unlock the car. Enter the car, place the "working" key into the ignition switch. Start the engine. Shut it off. That key should now be enabled. The other, check the battery in the fob. If it's weak or dead, that could explain why you get nothing at all from it. It could also be faulty switches in the fob. Just so you know, these fobs are automatically disabled after a week or so of disuse.