Need Oil Change for Winterizing Drove < 700 mi
 

I didn't have time to drive more than 700 miles this summer. I started with clean oil change from winterizing.

Should I change the oil again before winterizing?

It is highly recommended you change the oil immediately before storing the car for winter, especially if you did any racing or autocross. You need to change it annually anyway, regardless of mileage. :cheers:

WOW that's horrible!! I drove mine over 900 miles two weekends ago. I only managed to put on 450 miles this weekend. Oh and yes I would change the oil before you put it away for the winter.

by the way a great source of the recommended Mobil 1 is Wal-Mart. I use 15w 50 here in so cal.

Wal-Mart has a special price of $22.00 for a 5 quart bottle. AND any order over $50 is FREE 2 day shipping. HOW CAN YOU BEAT THAT??!!!! and you can order the weight you want without going into the store to find out that they don't have the weight you want.

SUCH A DEAL!!

My school of thought on this... and this is only me... but I prefer to winterized with the old oil and replace the oil at spring just before intense service. To me it doesn't make any big difference if the engine sits with the old oil. Depends where you live but when you take the car out during spring you will end up with oil that has collected humidity all winter long.

Your pick

Thanks guys!

Seems changing oil for winterizing is best option and easiest transition for spring. We already hit below freezing here in Colorado, but may have a few more mild days mid 70s low 60s before going consistently below 50

I changed my oil 3 weeks ago put on little over 300 miles. I don't need to change the oil for winter storage do i? I'm still going to drive when weather permits. I may have put on 500 miles before i put in storage.

How much gas should i have in the gas tank when i put in storage?

Is there anything else i should do to the car before i put in for storage?

Car will be parked in my garage and this is 1st time i will be storing car.

Thanks in advance for your input.................

Seems the Best Practice is to not drive after changing the oil for winter storage. Used oil in the engine turns acidic regardless of how low miles driven after changing. Other winter prep steps include: filling up the tank; air up the tires to 50 psi to prevent flat spots; put battery on battery maintainer; give the car a good wash and put cover on; I put chock blocks on front wheels and put gear in neutral and release the parking brake.

After less than 700 miles? :eek:
I would leave it and just start the car every week or two, idling until warm. This is good for the battery, too. Roll it a bit to prevent tire flat spots.

Being in Colorado, I guess your winters are longer, but here in Missouri, the snow season is maybe 3-4 months long and winterizing is a complete waste of time and money. Until/unless the roads are salted, I keep driving it all winter.

We hardly ever get snow here anymore. :(

That's what i figure but had to ask. Should I pour fuel additive to keep fuel from so to speak spoiling? Car will be in storage for 3 months.

Definitely wouldn't change the oil after 700miles

also wouldn't frequently start and stop the car without driving it over the winter

Shut it off with a full tank of gas. Plug it in and leave it alone till april

Why would you leave the car parked throughout winter? I only drive mine over the weekends or time off but, I'd certainly not leave her garaged for 3 or 4 months just because it's cold outside. I used to ride motorcycles in winter. Crisp air does wonders for the body.

One reason would be because you do not have winter tires. Driving below 40° F on summer tires can be dangerous, one member here totaled his 986 doing this a few years ago.

Also for anyone looking for more info on prepping your 986 for storage, there is tons of info available via the search function. :cheers:

Why would you leave a full tank of gas in the car when petrol has a finite life, that's just throwing money away?

As for the oil i'd leave it and do it in the spring. Seriously after 700 miles it's barely been used.

Northern climates. Cold weather = condensation= water in your tank = corrosion and rust

I'd definitely add fuel stabilizer (to negate ethanol) regardless of oil changing preferences. :o

Lol! Great question for someone who lives in California. Your cold and our cold in Northern climates are totally different things, our temperatures can be well below freezing for weeks or months. Up north we typically have snow tires on our vehicles from November to April and snow shovels and or snow blowers in our garages. The roads are sanded and salted or sprayed with calcium chloride or other solutions to prevent icing.

My Boxster is parked inside from just before the first snow, until the spring rains have washed the roads clean.

Doubt it in a galvanised tank somehow.

Leave it with next to nothing in it and fill it up before the first drive in the spring. Otherwise you're driving round on stale fuel and that will do more damage than anything.

According to Porsche change the oil and fill the fuel tank. If you own the car, do whatever makes you happy. They aren't your boss.:cheers:
From the MY '03 owner's manual:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1507739281.jpg

where can I get silica gel?

I do all of the above- and release my roof at the windshield, so it is relaxed over the winter. The car is covered with a fitted cover with the windows down a crack.

I hate to use the "W" word, but Walmart has large silica gel packs in the firearms section. They are sold for use in gun safes.

I top off with ethanol free fuel

Your decision should be driven by whether you believe driving 700 miles has introduced enough contaminants into the oil, e.g. acids etc., that it degrades the parts that sit in it for several months My guess is fresh oil is the safer choice, but its your car and your wallet.

BTW: if someone places such a high value on one's 986 to preserve it from winter elements by garaging it, why try to save a few bucks over low cost preventive items such as changing roughly 10 quarts of oil.

Actually, its not the value I place by garaging it as much as not driving a rear wheel car in snow weather;I have an Audi for that.

From what I hear, these cars apparently do reasonably well in the winter with the right rubber on them. Within obvious limits, of course---deeper snow is a no-go. But I just hate the crap they put on roads to melt snow/ice. Had a chance to see the underside of my winter DD (a Mazdaspeed) up on lift a few weeks back, when the clutch was being replaced. Gawd, it looks awful under there, rust everywhere! :eek: My Box is 6 years older and you'd be hard pressed to find a fleck of rust anywhere. I like doing what DIY I can on the Box, but if it looked like the Maz underneath I think I'd pass on that.

NE Ohio winters are destructive as hell on cars.

...and then there's that, the Magnesium Chloride used in Colorado reeks havoc to the entire undercarriage

i plan on starting the engine up once every 2 weeks and let it idle and warm up to operating tempurature so not changing the oil is fine in my opinion with just 700 miles on the oil.

Doing that is one of the worst things you can do to the engine. Unless you are going to run the car at highway speeds for 20-30 min., you are far better off to follow some others advise about fuel stabilizer, fresh oil, a good battery maintainer, and then just let it sit. We do this with several special customer cars every winter, never had a problem.

That may be what they use here as well...I've seen snow plow trucks spraying a liquid mixture onto the roads after a snow or freeze.