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Seller lied, got screwed on Boxster. Keep or sell?
What’s the right choice?
I bought a 99 Boxster from a guy who didn’t tell me about it’s suspension issues, and amazingly the Porsche prepurchase inspection didn’t reveal it. The problem is the previous owner put lowering springs on it, and there is no way to align the car properly now. He was in an accident, and I know why… He spun it because the car has no grip! So here is where I am… Base 986 Boxster. Under 70k mi. Paid $7000. -Other than suspension, the car appears to be clean... other than a mediocre paint job in the spots he squished. -I don’t think it is, and neither do I mechanics, but I don’t think I will be comfortable until I know for certain the frame isn’t bent...given the seller’s dishonesty. That will cost me $500-$1000 to find out. -My mechanics tell me I have 2 solutions: 1. Return the car to stock suspension, $2500 2. Keep it low, but install proper racing suspension, $4-$5000 ***IS RACING SUSPENSION WORTH THE MONEY???*** if I spent the money, would I enjoy a noticeable upgrade over the 986 stock suspension? Or would it be a really expensive way to lower the car 1 inch? I do like the 986 model, always felt like my last 986 could have been better planted, and having a little bit of a sleeper is appealing...But wasting money is not. -I have spent $2200 on the major 65K tuneup -PPI gave car clean bill of health - I have invested $600 in personal touches |
P.S.
If I sell this car, the buyer will know EVERYTHING about this Boxster! And if you are the kind of person who is willing to put lives at risk for a dollar, screw you. I discovered the problem when I almost put the car into a wall while driving with my 10-year-old son! |
The lowering springs alone should not be making the car dangerous to drive. Plenty of people put springs on these cars with no problems. The reason they can't align it is because the factory control arms don't have the adjustment in them necessary to dial out the additional negative camber. Negative camber shouldn't be dangerous on its own. Something else might be going on. You also have a third option which is buying adjustable control arms front and rear.
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Something is fishy. Lowering springs will not cause the car to be all over the road. Only alignment setting that would be affected would be the negative camber, having it out of spec and be little more negative will actually increase cornering grip.
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Do you have an itemized list from your mechanic that wants to do the $2500 stock work? If so, please post it.
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Why not just trade someone for stock springs and go from there?
These things are already low enough, in my opinion. |
I'm still missing something here. Lowering springs are not causing the "every which way" issue. An amateur job is not either as something would have to be bent or a bushing squished or ..... to cause this. Can you post the printout of the alignment check with the camber, caster, toe in, thrust angle and the SAI (steering angle inclination if the shop works on German cars they will have checked this as the best indicator of bent steering components). I do between 5 and 20 alignments a week on various vehicles and see plenty of shoddy work. I don't recall the last time it took more than a few hundred $$$ to correct it although it has cost more if components are completely worn out such as ball joints, control arms, tie rods, bushings etc.... Just curious, where you from? If you happen to be near the Detroit area bring it by me, it is just $49.95 for us to align your car or at least do a proper base measurement, not trying to advertise, I'm just a tech at a shop that hates shoddy work or people being taken for a ride.
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Yes, the Spec Boxster setup (PSS9's, adj control arms, adj sway bars, rear toe links, and extended sway bar links) are a huge upgrade in terms of cornering/handling performance over the stock (or M030) suspension. If you plan to track the car or eventually race, this is great setup and well worth the investment. With sticky tires, a Boxster with racing suspension will corner at more than 1.0g. BUT this setup is not very comfortable on the street. Its tolerable with everything on Full Soft but definitely still stiff riding. On Full Hard (race setting) it will rattle your tooth fillings on rough pavement. I know this because my Spec Boxster is still street registered and I drive it to/from every race. For a daily driver, you could live with it (use the stock Bilstein springs that come with the PSS9's as the 450/500 lbs/in springs that racers use will be overkill on the street) but you'll have to be ready to compromise comfort for performance. Again, I'd only go this route if you intend to track the car on a regular basis with the hope of racing someday. The best setup on the street for a good mix of performance and comfortable drivability is the factory M030 option. |
2.2k for 65k tuneup? Did they do an engine out service? Seriously what did they do?
Just because it's lowered doesn't mean you can't get a good alignment. Yes, if you are going for factory 0 camber fronts, that ain't going to happen. You can run -1.5+ camber and still have a very safe setup. I'm not sure where you're located but the places you took the car to do not know these cars....unless you seriously have a bent frame...that would be the only case you can't get a proper alignment. Plenty people here have lowered cars...i have plenty of this gen 986/996 car "slammed" and have no issues with alignment |
They alignment guy knows how to set thing to factory specifications he does not actually know how to do alignments. He doesn't really know what to do and can't make it workable because the company doesn't really allow for that.
I've not dived into Porsche alignment specs yet but I doubt that lowering springs would prevent proper tow settings which can very much adversely affect regular driving and make it unstable. Castor, think chair castors, could be a bit crazy on lower springs I guess. If left and right sides are set equally then you could maybe get buy but yea wrong castor that could make the car a bit hard to drive. Everyone want's more negative camber so I can't see that causing the car to be unstable. Again equalizing settings left and right would help a lot but a regular alignment shop isn't going to touch it. My BS asside. Find a tuning shop not a chain shop or dealer to do the alignment, and if putting factory springs on it would correct all this then do that. You'll probably be happy with handling. A collision specialty shop can tell you if the frame is bent. Save the springs for when you do want to do a race suspension or sell them to the next wan-a-b tuner. I've got a racing Spec Miata and it's not really pleasant to drive on regular roads so I'd say you probably don't want a racing suspension on a street car. If you are going to track it mostly then go for it. |
Go stock! Unless you plan on racing and spending more to beef up the overall engine performance which will be a couple more thousand
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I had a Porsche dealer do the 60 5K tuneup, and I forgot to mention I also purchased tires. That is why it was $2000-$2200. I can’t remember the exact price As far as my mechanics go… My family has been using the same Porsche mechanic for 20 years. He is a top-shelf pro. And the other guys were per his recommendation. He said the alignment guy is the best in our area and doesn’t recommend anyone else. |
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The guy was kind of a prick, and although my mechanic does a good job giving quality referrals I won’t go back to this guy. |
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Is your mechanic an air cooled guy or a water cooled guy? Most tend to focus in one area or the other. It never hurts to get a second opinion. |
If an aftermarket suspension was installed, it is therefore a modified vehicle that you have. In this context, it render the vehicle both a personal and public safety hazard (quoted from dept. of transport and automakers' eng. dept).
If there is no way for you/mechanic to scientifically match the geometry/alignment of the original suspension + damping + preload characteristics, then the advice is to stay with recommended settings (factory). There are obviously some folks in the industry who can install and correctly dial those aftermarket springs on performance Porsche cars (few in fact) but finding one in your area could be tricky. Involves a lot more than just slamming some cool looking coil-overs lolll Needs adj links on each and every wheels + custom alignment + damping + preload dialing. Read not exactly easy to accomplish and less than cheap ~ if you are half-serious about an intelligent suspension set-up and safety. If the intent is a every-day street vehicle and you have nobody who can 'genuinely' dial this Boxster better than Porsche can; my advice would be to rip off this mess and replace with recommended (stock or ROW M30). Sorry to hear man. Roadster fun shouldn't start like that. Sure you and your 10/y son will sort it all tough :) |
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Not sure how handy you are but you can do this yourself at home with a relatively inexpensive camber gauge and strings. I can write several paragraphs but really just youtube "string alignment" and you can do it at home with strings and a measuring tape. You can get really close and get a good baseline and a driveable car. Before you start there is something I want you to check: does this have factory wheels and no spacers? Wrong offset wheels or spacers affect the scrub radius on the tires and cause all sorts of problems. Scrub radius is the steering axis inclination angle vs the offset of the wheels, sort of, to put it simply it has to do with the steering axis angle and how close to the center of the tire does it place the weight going crosswise across the tread. |
A good independant shop that does alignments should either be able to set the suspension alignment correctly OR be able to give you specifics on why they can't . Sorry the reply from your P car shop is not good enough in my opinion .
Regardless on you staying with the springs you have or going back to OEM you are going to need a shop to do a four wheel alignment . Where are you located ? Is there a PCA region where you are ? PCA members may be able to suggest a good indie near you . Good luck . |
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Did you test drive the car before you bought it ? $7,000 is a fair price if there's no major damage. You need to find the best local independent LATE model Porsche mechanic & let him sort out your needs. |
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Anything drive train/aftermarket related is simply a no-go. Only genuine Porsche parts. If you want those flashy speed yellow coil-over with cool purple anodized preload adjusters, you need to go to the 'Performance Shops'. Which are often ran by teenagers dressed in NYC style raper gears I'm affraid. Yo~Wanna to see tatoo, yu-kome-my-shop-friend, I got "RACE" stuff also LOL You can do a test at your end; ask your shop to pull up the official vehicle's (boxster/986) data and ask them to advertise their calculations for critical damping (sprung and unsprung). By vehicle data I mean total weight, front weight in percentage, unsprung weight, motion ratio, radial stiffness, natural resonant freq + system (un-damped), etc etc etc... You will be in for a serious laugh I promise. Beware.... you haven't even reached asking for the low & high speed compression/rebound/damping ratio yet - those special one spec'ed for the Boxster freq that basically keeps you and your second-half(or 10y/old son) alive over high speed street bumps. Try! funny stuff I tell ya Porsche man... Porsche ;) |
Disclosure: I know nothing about Porsche cars.
Could well be that its okay to install aftermarket suspension/links in your driveway (my neighbor did that on his Mitsubishi) and off you go to the alignment shop. Really dunno... modern/smart car parts... who knows |
Doing the right thing
I bought a really run down 01 Boxster for less than half what you paid. I've learned some things. About buying a cheap or badly mechanicked Porsche.
One, indy Porsche shops don't like them. They see the fubar suspension or blown strut dampeners, or split boots on the CV joints and immediately tell you that it's not worth fixing and I (you) should call the pick n pull and have it towed off. If it were my car, I'd take it to a alignment/suspension specialist--a shop that specializes in these services. Go first cabin on this, it's important! As someone mentioned you may need to get the frame trued up, too. Two, there are alternatives to brand new genuine Porsche parts. There are good aftermarket alternatives--The online perveyor that starts with Rock and ends with auto, for example, sells Bilstein struts. You might investigate the suspension section for your year/model car. They also have control arms and steering components. I'd probably do all four corners on the suspension (probably will on mine.) Three, there are parts cars that can serve as donor vehicles--in your case, I'd probably look into used stock loaded struts. Worst case, rebuild or have them rebuilt with new dampeners. Disclaimer: I live in a very dry warm climate--rubber parts degrade, but rust is unknown here. First things first, tho. Get the poor little car so it's driveable.:cheers: |
Is it possible to see a picture of just how low the car is?? This issue shouldn't really make the car unstable and have no grip. A pic from the side would be helpful
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I judged who I wanted to align my car by how many racing cars of similar make/model/vintage he had in his shop and was setting up for the track. And I was wanting a road only setup that favored tire wear! Why the racing setup guy? Because he knows the effects of the setups, not just stock and out the door and on to the next one.
Frame alignment check after an accident is done with a Porsche supplied jig or a laser driven tool. Mine was done after an accident at a very high end body shop. Where are you located? Maybe someone can give you a recommendation. |
+500 , the alignement shop should be able to tell you what components are worn beyond adjustment
+2 if you test drove this car. I'm surprised you couldn't feel the car wandering all over the road. if the suspension was that bad I'm surprised you bought it |
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